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Posted

Just figured out how to use photo bucket and this site so sorry ther is more than one post! I like the rust work on my first Rustang but I would like to know how to get it perfectmustangs018.jpg

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Posted

Nicely done! I'm glad to see you didn't rust the plastic front bumper!

I'd suggest giving the whole thing a black wash to really give it some depth.

Posted

A lighter and a dremell, I cut thin lines on the underside of the where I wanted the bend to be then hit it with a lighter. Im just learning.

Posted

Hi Brandon, I like nothing more than a rusty old car in 1/25 :) I hardly ever post here because what I have to say has been said by someone else before I get the chance.

A black wash is made by using a little bit of black paint with a lot of thinners. Say if your using either Testors or Humbrol paint, then use enamel thinners to thin the paint down. I dont really work to a ratio, but I guess 90% thinners to 10% paint so it's really thin and you''re on your way!. I use the thinnest brush I can find and dip it into the mix then put the brush against where you want the wash to flow, and just let the brush touch the body and it will do the rest. If you're going to put the wash into a door jamb, start from the top of the door pillar, then as it works its way down, build it up where the door rubbers would be on a real car. If you don't like the result, 100% thinners will get rid of it.

How did

Posted

Oops! :) How did you do the windshield?. I've never seen kit glass done with the result you've achieved! I'm really impressed with that, wow!

Do you call this model finished?, or is it a work in progress? I have a few ideas for it, but if you're over it, then let it be.

Well done!

James.

Posted

Thanks I'll have to try that. So do you just put it in cracks and what not or do you coat the whole car like the other guy said to do? I have never done it before.

Posted

I'd start in the door jambs and panel gaps first, then go over the rest of the body. It all depends on you!. You can't make a mistake with a beater!

Once your summer season starts, you could if possible leave it out in the sun to really fade the paint too. By that, I mean just leave it there untill winter comes around again. The sun will really bleach the paint like a real car.

James.

Posted

I've used Tamiya flat black, with a bit of flat tan, thinned with water until I liked how it flowed (I add a touch of dishsoap to break the water's tension). When I've done weathering, it's easy to over do it, so go slow. Think of how a real car gets dirty, usually the top gets rain, bird stuff, tree sap, etc, and the bottom doesn't get the rain etc. I've used more flat tan, or earth, or rust paint to add more tan to areas that are dirty, and more black for shadowy areas. Thinned flat grey can add a dusty look, too. Around the rust areas you have already, adding a very thin flat black wash with a touch of tan will add some darkness to the low spots, adding some depth. Take some scrap pieces, or a scrap body to practice on. Add the paints you did on your Mustang model, then practice with the washes. Once you get to the point you think it's almost enough, then stop and let it dry. You can always add a bit more later. I hope this helps!

Posted (edited)

Here's my '58 Vette. I used a wash on the wheels, panel lines, and lower body. (The photo doesn't show this really well)

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Here's a Jalopy that I used more of a dirt wash, along with a black wash.

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Here's a '69 Camaro I did as a daily driver, with more of a rust and dirt wash, with black wash in the wheels. Ialso used some flat clear to flatten some areas more than others.

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The rear panel on the tow truck got more of a flat tan to show heavier dirt, and rust

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A picture is worth a thousand words as they say! More pics available in my album link in my signature line.

Edited by Tony T

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