Plastic Surgery for the 1/8th "Big T"

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Some of you know that I'm one of the partners behind TDR, now before anyone says I'm bias towards their products, please understand that if I don't like something or can see a running improvement that needs to made I have absolutely no qualms about letting them know. Guess that's why the rest of the TDR partners call me grumps. LOL.

Anyhow, they asked me to run some of their products through the wringer in an effort to keep you guys happy campers and satisfied with the wares they offer.

I figured being this C-cab project was off the wall anyway...let's hop the ###### out of their Jag engine and see if I can put it in a Hot Rod. Now I'm sure the purists and detail freaks are going to scream foul, but this is a build to suit me and with your input to this thread let's have some good old down to earth fun from an average modelers point of view. In other words...no fancy tools or equipment or expensive hardware....just basic modeling skills and hobby tools.

Below is a pic of the kit as delivered......not too shabby, lots of parts, great detail and most importantly it's to scale. No problems so far. I'm sure by now Rick is biting his lip wondering what I'm going to say next.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Rick has informed me that some of you guys (like me) have better things to do (with already scarce hobby time) other than dragging out sanding sticks and magnifying glasses to polish out things things like blocks etc. The texture on these parts is what is...just the nature of the beast. Rather than moan about it or spend hours sanding around details and such...I figured there had to be a way to take advantage of it and there is.

I saw no reason to try sanding and finishing a part that is supposed to replicate a mass produced cast iron part...in fact, I've spent far too much time before trying to duplicate that factory cast iron look on baby butt smooth injection molded kit parts.

The photos below show the TDR Jag block, head, trans, bell-housing with several coats of primer surfacer and a couple wet coats of color. No sanding or prep work at all. The primer & paint got the texture to the point where (at least to my eye) looks like full size cast parts...no fuss, no hassles. I will have to sand out things like valve covers etc. but we're half way home already. I'm also including some close-ups that are far larger than the actual parts so that you can eye ball them. Notice that the detail is still there, including the little stuff like letters and numbers......and the texture looks cast.

What do you guys think?

[arick]

OK, I'll bite!! Ain't nothing better than a Jaguar engine painted in GM colours. I'm likeing it so far Grumps. Seeing as you're going to drop the Jag engine into that hot rod milk truck you're building, why not go even wilder and put a couple of hair dryers on the engine.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

So be it...I'll order a couple of the small mirror image turbos and see if I can build a bag of snakes to take the grunt from the exhaust, up over the valve covers, thru an inter-cooler and deposit all that fat air in the intake side.

Milk Truck, Ice Cream Truck? Do I look like the Good Humor man? How 'bout Grump's Magic Elixir & Traveling Side Show. LOL

Edited February 20, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[Custom Hearse]

I'm gonna cry "FOWL" Grandpa... Cause if this was a 1:1 build, that thing would "fly"!

This build is beyond awesome... Thanks for sharing your talents with us. I'm definitely looking forward to seeing more of this build!

[GrandpaMcGurk]

I'm gonna cry "FOWL" Grandpa... Cause if this was a 1:1 build, that thing would "fly"!

This build is beyond awesome... Thanks for sharing your talents with us. I'm definitely looking forward to seeing more of this build!

Thanks for the kind words buddy, I'm having a ball building this model, it's allowing me to do some scratch building, kit bashing and just plain have fun.......glad you like it. It's going to be different for sure.

Here's a couple of pics from the TDR catalog of an engine built and detailed in stock configuration......Rick, isn't this the one that our pal "SYD" built for us?

Anyhow...that's what it's 'posed to look like.

Edited February 21, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[arick]

This is an opportunity for me to add some excitement to the MCM forum. The TDR partners don't have a lot of time to build and photograph what we produce. So, what we do is seek the help of our customers. Here's how it works.....

We've asked Harry to help us find a member (or several members) here who build in large scale. Every once in a while, TDR will send one of those modellers a complementary kit, usually a new issue, and ask them to build it here on the MCM forum. The builder has free reign to build it any way he likes and all we ask is that he gives the kit an honest evaluation, builds it on site in a timely fashion and that he writes a tutorial and takes photos suitable for publication. In return, the builder gets to keep what we sent him. There may also be times when we sell products at a reduced rate in return for promo photos etc.

This promo has worked very well in the past, and the Jaguar engine that Don posted is an example. "Syd" is one of our customers. We sent him the Jag engine, he built, photographed and tutorialed it on the SMC site and we use his material for promotional purposes. We've used Syd several times and its been a win win for both sides.

Edited February 21, 2010 by arick

[GrandpaMcGurk]

I've sprayed several coats of primer on some of these fiddly parts but as you can see in the pics they still need a lick & kiss with the ol' sanding sticks before paint to acheive the finish I'm after. I want some of these parts to look stamped and smooth and others to appear as if cast and polished from perhaps aluminum. So like it or not it's time to sand. BTW...I buy the sanding sticks from Hobby Lobby, they are cheap and work great for getting into those little nooks and crannies. A couple of bucks gets you an assortment of 25 sticks in several grits. They are flexible and easy to use.

Edited February 22, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[GrandpaMcGurk]

This is a Hot Rod Jag and I wanted to add a little bling, so as the old rodders saying goes "if it don't go, chrome it". Rather than go through all the metalizers, rub & buff stuff to try to get these covers to look chrome plated, I scrounged through my overflowing/junk parts box and found a set of R/M Jag covers. I know that TDR parts are to scale and as luck would have it, they fit...the plating has held up fairly well so this engine gets a bit a glitter....cool beans.

Edited February 23, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[DaytonaTim]

That is cool that the R/M valve covers fit. That makes getting the bling easier!!

If you have one of the original R/M Jag blocks laying around in that junk box too, dig it out and show the difference in the detail level. The first time I saw the R/M Jag block I was surprized to see just how much they left out. It really is a brick!!

Since this build will have an open engine compartment you will readily see the sides of the block, so the block details should really up the reality level some.

Looking good!

[Custom Hearse]

Looks great Don! The valve covers make it a lot nicer, and the color looks great!

I had an idea for the 1/8th Revell 32 I have, and this build gave me the idea... I wonder how hard it would be to build the "Graffiti" coupe from it?

Sorry, rambling on...

Can't wait to see what you do next for it!

[arick]

Hi Marshall

If you are going to do a Grafitti coupe, and I think you should, have a look at the three window body produced by Edeuce (www.edeuce.com). I've purchased several of their bodies and have never been disappointed.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Marshall, let me start by saying thanks, it makes me all warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that I've inspired you to tackle a biggie project. Rick and I are a bit shop worn and have probably between the 2 of us bought, modified or otherwise abused many of the parts & bodies that are available. I've had dealings with Mike (eDeuce) also. As Rick said, never been disappointed. Good service, a quality resin casting and no worries.

So why are we blowing his horn?

Simple.....like you, even though we are wearing the TDR moniker we are just large scale modelers. Personally I see no reason for you guys to throw more good money at door stops only to be disappointed or handed a bunch of B.S.

I would like to suggest that if building a replica of "well known" car blows your skirt, by all means that is what you should do. On the flip side how 'bout keeping that coupe in mind as inspiration and build one that would suit you if you were doing it 1:1?

In other words, build the Marshall Coupe. That's how Hot Rodding was born and it's alive well even these days.

Edited February 23, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[GrandpaMcGurk]

That is cool that the R/M valve covers fit. That makes getting the bling easier!!

If you have one of the original R/M Jag blocks laying around in that junk box too, dig it out and show the difference in the detail level. The first time I saw the R/M Jag block I was surprized to see just how much they left out. It really is a brick!!

Since this build will have an open engine compartment you will readily see the sides of the block, so the block details should really up the reality level some.

Looking good!

Tim, I cut the R/M Jag block up long ago and made a 4 banger out of it. I did find the bellhousing and trans from the XKE kit. When you called it a brick, you were being kind...although I've cut the R/M parts up for other uses I did not sand off any of the lack luster detail...here's a side by side pic of the kit parts with the TDR parts. Nuff said?

[GrandpaMcGurk]

The chrome covers don't hurt my eyes to look at so I figured I'd add even a little more "bling". I spent a few minutes sanding the front cover and then sprayed it with gold epoxy. I'll do the same with the oil pan. I don't think this engine (the way I'm building it) would fly too well with the Pebble Beach crowd but it is starting to look like a heater for a Hot Rod. I haven't sanded the mating surfaces yet so please overlook the fact the parts aren't quite flush.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

As I said earlier in this thread I'm doing this build from a modelers point of view and that includes the boo boo's and things I feel you guys should be aware of with these TDR products. This stuff isn't styrene or resin, it has it's own characteristics. It's easy enough to sand but as you can see in the photo I got a little heavy handed prepping a tiny part for paint and snapped off a little tab. Easy enough to repair but when handling the really small fiddly stuff a little extra care is in order. Another thing to remember is you can't use regular model cement on these parts. The cement has no effect on them and there is no fusing between the parts. CA works great...I use the thick kind as it fills in the tiny pores and results in a very strong bond.

The TDR kit comes with a nicely detailed generator and if I ever get around to doing an older or retro build I'll put it to good use. However for this build I'll be using something a bit more modern. Pictured is the alternator that comes with their Hemi engine....it's perfect for what I'm doing.

[arick]

Guys, our products are a composit of plaster and epoxy resin. As you can see from Don's photo, breaks are clean makeing them easy to repair.

[Harry P.]

Guys, our products are a composit of plaster and epoxy resin. As you can see from Don's photo, breaks are clean makeing them easy to repair.

Plaster???!!!

For cutting-edge technology, that's mighty old school!

But hey... it works!

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Plaster???!!!

For cutting-edge technology, that's mighty old school!

But hey... it works!

Now that's funny.... I had much the same reaction when I heard the word plaster.

However, when you think about it......in all the years that have passed, we are still building mega structures with wood, concrete, steel and whatever else comes from our natural resources. The Hi- tech engines that power things like the Bugatti Veyron and all the rest are based on the internal combustion engine....it hasn't changed much since day one...ignite the fuel to cause a controlled explosion to move a piston etc. etc.

Sure a lot of hi-tech bells and whistles have been added over time but it's still mighty old school (in your words).

So what's wrong with old school?

Edited February 26, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Just for giggles I thought I'd post a pic of the TDR Jag next to the TDR 426........it should give you guys a pretty good idea of how much longer the 6 holer is.....it's skinny compared to the elephant but from the back of the block to the front it eats up some real estate, fortunately the bell-housing and tranny are quite a bit shorter than the 727 auto behind the 426. There isn't much room inside the body of a bucket or in my case a C-cab for an engine set back.

Edited February 27, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[Custom Hearse]

Marshall, let me start by saying thanks, it makes me all warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that I've inspired you to tackle a biggie project. Rick and I are a bit shop worn and have probably between the 2 of us bought, modified or otherwise abused many of the parts & bodies that are available. I've had dealings with Mike (eDeuce) also. As Rick said, never been disappointed. Good service, a quality resin casting and no worries.

So why are we blowing his horn?

Simple.....like you, even though we are wearing the TDR moniker we are just large scale modelers. Personally I see no reason for you guys to throw more good money at door stops only to be disappointed or handed a bunch of B.S.

I would like to suggest that if building a replica of "well known" car blows your skirt, by all means that is what you should do. On the flip side how 'bout keeping that coupe in mind as inspiration and build one that would suit you if you were doing it 1:1?

In other words, build the Marshall Coupe. That's how Hot Rodding was born and it's alive well even these days.

You have a point Don, but I do love the looks of the A.G. coupe. If I was to build something of my own design, I'd probably never finish it. I 'm still working on the "Merodder", and I've been on it for 3 years!

I don't think I'd ever see the end of a 1/8th scale custom!

Your C-Cab is looking great though. Keep up the awesome work!!!

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Locating pins are provided on the bell-housing and & trans for this RP kit which makes assembly a no brainer. They fit very well and and even though I'm not drilling out the bolt holes at this point they are dead on. The indicated holes from one part to another line up exactly. That should simplify things for you bolt together guys tremendously. The only part that required any massaging was the oil pan to block. The pan didn't want to slip easily over the lip on the bottom of the block. I relieved the inside of the pan a tiny bit and knocked a little off the block lip, that allowed the pan to fit flush against the block.

I'm using thick CA for assembly and as you know you only get one shot at positioning parts before they grip unless you use a slow set CA.

Take care to make sure the head is positioned to line up with the front cover. If you line it up with the front of the block, the front cover won't be flush with the head.

I'll be installing the exhaust manifolds upside down to allow me to mount the turbos on top. That way I'll be able to mount an inter-cooler over the top of the engine and have a straight shot to it from the turbos to the cooler and then run tubes from the cooler to the intake. This engine is already long enough without me running tubing in front or back to get from one side to the other. I can mount the turbos together in the center as shown in the 1st picture below ...or put one in front and the other towards the rear. The exhaust will run down the left side of the block.....if I use the small TDR turbos, I'm hoping I can get them to fit in the center position...if not I'll have to go with the out board set-up like the second photo...which location would you guys go with?

[Custom Hearse]

I'd like to see the inboard set up myself. Looks more organized that way... But either way, it's gonna be awesome!!!

[GrandpaMcGurk]

I dug through the parts box and found some cast metal acorn nuts that looked about the right size...they aren't threaded, they just have a stud below the acorn, I got them from SMC, don't know if he still does them...you'd have to contact him or another supplier if you need some. I needed 14, found 13....that's the way my luck runs at times. I cast a few in resin to take up the slack and will paint them to match the metal ones....yeah, I'm a tight wad.

While I was drilling out the head for the acorn nut studs (used a pin vise) I had a senior moment and chipped out one of the bosses....bummer.

JB Kwik to the rescue....I swear by this stuff, it can be sanded, drilled tapped, whatever. Being a 2 part epoxy it's not going anywhere or cause me any problems later. Like the man said..."a little dab will do ya".

Edited March 3, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[DaytonaTim]

Hey Guys, I bought one of those Dremel drill presses. The ones you mount your normal dremel tool to. I have started using it to drill out all the holes for the bolts in all my rapid prototype parts. I hold the model part in two hands and move it toward the drill bit, instead of using the drill press in its normal fashion.

Since I have started using this technique I have not busted out the side of any hole I have drilled and believe me I have drilled out some very delicate holes.