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1932 ford


E St. Kruiser50

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Every once in a while I get the urge to build a "Racer" cool.gif .

This is pretty much out of the box except for opening the rear hatch and hinging it, adding turned alum. engine pullys, a ton of Zeus body fasteners and using a different color combo than the box art showed (Red and White).

I used urethane paint for the finish, used the stock decals with a catalyzed urethane HOK clear-coat over them, and detailed the engine and interior.

Right now I'm building the Black and Gold "Finland version" #4 JPS Mustang - Got the urge again

Edited by Treehugger Dave
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Are these kits pretty well detailed from the box? I have the JPS Mustang also. I'm thinking a street legal version. biggrin.gif

To me, these are very nice kits, and Revell did a nice job on them. As I remember, everything fit well.

The #4 JPS seems to be just as nice as this one pictured. The body is attached to the chassis in the one shown here, but I modified, and re-engineered the JPS version, so that it's assembled differently, so I can display the body and chassis separately to show the details under the "Skin", or I can put it together and show it as an assembled car cool.gif .

Here's the kit I'm working on now.

2009_0523Photobucket10028.jpg

As you can see, I opened up the rear hatch like the yellow and black 7-11 car. I like stuff to move, so I'll hinge the hood on this one, instead of just being removeable, and displayed.

2009_0523Photobucket10025.jpg

Edited by Treehugger Dave
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Dave...the Revell kit came with an separate, hinged rear hatch. What did you do to make it different? Looks just like the kit parts to me.

You could be right Mark, as they made several kits in this series, and this one posted as the original topic could have been the one that had it removed in the kit - been a while.

The parts pic of the JPS Mustang, if that's what your referring to, doesn't show the changes I made to it.

In the pics I'll include here I'll show the mods and explain them.

In the first pic, a repeat of the parts pic, you'll see on both sides of the chassis, a three sided indent for the two black panels shown to be glued in there, to form the lower part of the chassis, and the lower side panel of the body.

I separated these two parts where the make a right angle, so the side panel piece, and the chassis piece can be glued into place independantly, which also make the body a whole piece, instead of part of the body being attached to the chassis, which allows the body and chassis to be displayed separately, and align better when assembled.

I added alignment plates on the lower part of the body, so the two slide together and fit really well - no guessing or fanagelling when your at a show.

Also, you can see that the hood is still molded to the fenders, before I removed it.

The body had several "Sink Marks" from shrinkage, that's why the red filler in several small area's.cool.gif .

2009_0523Photobucket10025.jpg

In this pic you can see how the chassis is filled in on the sides mentioned, finished and then painted.

2010_0206Photobucket10033.jpg

In this pic it's easy to see how the body and chassis were modified, but not actually changing the stock appearance of the car.

I'm not into these things being absolutely representative of the actual car, as some here are, so there could be some minor discrepancies from the real car.

I build these type of cars to be fun, not nesessarily totally and perfectly indicative of the real car - but close.

2010_0206Photobucket10031.jpg

Here you can see the headlight recesses filled in so that the decals can lay flatter, and not have to deal with the edges of the recess. Some of Revell's decals don't work well on anything but flat surfaces, so I've learned to deal with that ahead of time in some cases.

Also a strip of plastic was added to the front of the hood opening where the hood can rest,

and I can install a hinge underneath. Planning ahead wink.gif .

2010_0206Photobucket10034.jpg

This side view shows the side panel glued in place and also the front fender "Clip" glued into place also, as I wanted it assembled.

Revell's idea was to have the body and chassis in tact, but able to remove the front hood/fender assembly for detail display. I changed all this so I could remove the entire body for display.

2010_0206Photobucket10036.jpg

This last pic shows the body with the hood and hatch in place.

When I trimmed out the hatch, I had to cut through thr deck spoiler. I wanted the spoiler to over-lap the flat area of the rear top of the fenders, so I trimmed the small end pieces of the spoiler from the body and glued them into place at the ends of the spoiler on the hatch.

Used some filler, and primered.

The hood was originally a part of the front fender clip - all one piece, so I cut that out too, like the hatch, added some strips of plastic for the hood to rest on, on the under-side of the fenders, filled in the small seam between the strip and the fender with body putty, sanded and primed.

2010_0206Photobucket10037.jpg

Long answer, but hope it helps smile.gif .

Edited by Treehugger Dave
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Dave,I know you have already posted alot of good info here...but is there any way I could arm twist you into doing a W.I.P? I for one am very interested in what your doing,and look forward to every update.Thanks for considering it.

Hi Scott smile.gif

OUCH_OUCH_OUCH laugh.gif (Us old guys have weak arms).

Gotta finish up my scratch-built Auburn before I committ to anything else. Been puting it off for years , and now I'm close to getting it done, and very happy with it.

The JPS car would be a fun easy project after the auburn is completed.

I'll probably do several "EASIES" after the Auburn wink.gif .

Be about a month before the auburn is done, then I'll PM you, to let you know that I started the thread if that's what I decide to build next. Don't have anything else in mind right now other than this, so we'll just see.

Thanks for askin' and getting in touch - dave smile.gif

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