Pls help with painting

[nilsleven]

Regardless how I try, I can't get a polished glossy finish to the paint job.

I'm using Humbrol acrylic model paints and a dual action airbrush. The paint is grainy and matt.

I've trying different varnishes as well, the result stays pretty much the same.

Any suggestions?

[Harry P.]

If the paint is grainy you probably don't have it thinned down enough.

To get a shine, try spraying a few coats of acrylic clear after your color coats.

[nilsleven]

Thanks!

How thin is a thin color? Or is it just trial and error?

Should I apply more paint to the grainy model or just continue on with clear?

How thin should the acrylic clear be?

If the paint is grainy you probably don't have it thinned down enough.

To get a shine, try spraying a few coats of acrylic clear after your color coats.

[MrObsessive]

Just as there are a lot of members here on the board, so will there be many different answers to your problem. I always recommend folks TEST their paint on a junk body before starting on their pet project.

One recommendation is to make sure you have adequate air pressure coming out of your compressor. I keep mine around 18-20 PSI. Some guys use more, some use less. You'll have to experiment as to what's best for your situation and type of paint.

As far as thinning, your paint should be the consistency of milk. In other words, when you swill the jar around full of paint, your paint should just slightly wash away from the sides of the jar. If it washes away quickly, it's thinned down too much. If it's washing away too slowly, thin it down some more. Once again, you'll have to test to see which variables work well for you.

If it were me, I'd strip the model and start over--------but that's me just being compulsive!

Hope all this helps!

[Harry P.]

Bill's advice about testing first is good advice. Before you spray your model, test out the paint on a scrap body, or even the back of a white plastic spoon.

You can lightly sand your already painted body with some very fine sandpaper to get the paint smooth, and respray a couple more coats of color over the top. I'm pretty sure your problem was that the paint was too thick (or your air pressure was set too low).

Like Bill said... test spray first.

[Junkman]

If the paint is grainy you probably don't have it thinned down enough.

To get a shine, try spraying a few coats of acrylic clear after your color coats.

You.

Can.

Not.

Spray.

Acrylic.

Clear.

Over.

Humbrol.

And entirely btw, I have never achieved a glossy paint coat with an airbrush. Hence I don't use them.

There are two kinds of people in the world. The ones who can spray with an airbrush, and the ones who can't. I am one of the latter and I admitted defeat a long time ago. Being able to paint with an airbrush is a congenital ability. One cannot learn it if one doesn't have it. A bit like plaster work.

[Harry P.]

You.

Can.

Not.

Spray.

Acrylic.

Clear.

Over.

Humbrol.

He said he was using Humbrol acrylic paint. So why can't you spray acrylic clear over acrylic color?

And I disagree with your opinion. Anyone can learn to use an airbrush successfully. It takes patience and practice, but nothing that any one of us doesn't have or can't master.

[nilsleven]

OK, I'm going to do a test run right now with lower pressure and thinner paint.

My paint was indeed much, much thicker than milk. Secondly the air pressure was high and I was spraying from 5-7 inches.

Results coming up in 30 minutes or so

Edited April 2, 2010 by nilsleven

[nilsleven]

Thanks everyone, now it worked pretty well. The paint job is much more glossier now. If only the previous layers weren't so grainy, then it would be quite satisfactory if not even fine.

A new problem appeared though - drops. I assume it's because of the lower pressure.

[MrObsessive]

Harry, you're right about gaining proficiency with practice from an airbrush. Back in 1985 I was DETERMINED to learn to use an airbrush when the THIRD can of Testors spray paint ruined a Cougar II I was trying to build back then.

I started off with a simple Badger (250?) and went from there. I guess it's safe to say that after all these years I've learned to use it properly!

That old saying has merit..............."Practice makes Perfect!"

[MrObsessive]

Thanks everyone, now it worked pretty well. The paint job is much more glossier now. If only the previous layers weren't so grainy, then it would be quite satisfactory if not even fine.

A new problem appeared though - drops. I assume it's because of the lower pressure.

When you're airbrushing, always start away from the model and stop spraying once your past it. This'll minimize the "drops" that get on your paint which can be due to paint buildup inside the sprayer "cup".

It might be a good idea to keep some Q-tips dipped in thinner on hand to "wipe out" the nozzle every so often when you start to see buildup. I'm not familiar with your setup, but you'll want to make sure the needle is compatible with the nozzle it's sitting in as well.

[MrObsessive]

Nils, here's a thread I did on basic building on a '49 Mercury a while ago. It should help on some of your questions about painting, prep and whatnot. It's a looooooong thread, but I think it's worth your while to read through it.

Just click here to check it out.

BTW fellas, there's only a small couple items to finish yet on it and she's all done!

[nilsleven]

Thanks! I'm pretty sure you're right and it's the drops forming in the "cup", as the problem appeared when I used thinner mixture. Thinner liquid forms drops more easily I guess. Great it's not due to the lower pressure!

The drops appeared when I started to spray right in the middle of the hood after a 30 seconds break in spraying. Quite a stupid thing to do anyway. So I think I can easily avoid the drops in the future. And I just checked and the drops have rendered almost unnoticeable meanwhile.

It actually looks pretty heartwarming right now Could be better but hey, it's my 2nd model.

The first was a Tamiya R32 Skyline which I scrapped after it broke to pieces in DOT4 liquid while trying to remove a totally failed paint job

When you're airbrushing, always start away from the model and stop spraying once your past it. This'll minimize the "drops" that get on your paint which can be due to paint buildup inside the sprayer "cup".

It might be a good idea to keep some Q-tips dipped in thinner on hand to "wipe out" the nozzle every so often when you start to see buildup. I'm not familiar with your setup, but you'll want to make sure the needle is compatible with the nozzle it's sitting in as well.

[Harry P.]

And with a little more experience and a little more practice you'll keep getting better and better!

[Junkman]

And I disagree with your opinion. Anyone can learn to use an airbrush successfully. It takes patience and practice, but nothing that any one of us doesn't have or can't master.

Anyone able to paint with an airbrush says this. Please count me out. First, I'm not Anyone. Second, I tried countless times over a period spanning four decades. I cannot do it and I will never try again.

[Harry P.]

Anyone able to paint with an airbrush says this. Please count me out. First, I'm not Anyone. Second, I tried countless times over a period spanning four decades. I cannot do it and I will never try again.

That's ok by me! If you don't want to use an airbrush, that's your business. But I stand by what I said: there is nothing to operating an airbrush and getting good results that is beyond the grasp of any of us. There is no special innate talent needed, it's simply a matter of correct paint viscosity and correct air pressure, which can be learned, and correct technique, which can be developed through practice.

If you can lay down a good finish with a spray can, you can do it with an airbrush. An airbrush is nothing more than a spray can that you have more control over. The end result–a spray pattern of paint–is the same, spray can or airbrush.

[nilsleven]

Can anyone please suggest how to remove one tiny hairlike dust particle from the paint?

I'm afraid that when I use sandpaper it'll mess up everything? Or how to properly do it?

[MrObsessive]

Nils, you'll want to get some polishing cloths------the ones from Detail Master are good as they'll range from 3200-12,000 grit.

I'd probably start with the 4000 and work my way up to the 12,000 to try to get rid of the lint. Follow the instructions on the package and it should be okay. I wouldn't use just any old sandpaper as it can scratch up the paint and make a real mess.

In that thread I gave you a link for, I go through the polishing process using the cloths.

[ajulia]

Nils, you'll want to get some polishing cloths------the ones from Detail Master are good as they'll range from 3200-12,000 grit.

I'd probably start with the 4000 and work my way up to the 12,000 to try to get rid of the lint. Follow the instructions on the package and it should be okay. I wouldn't use just any old sandpaper as it can scratch up the paint and make a real mess.

In that thread I gave you a link for, I go through the polishing process using the cloths.

Hello fella! Mr.G' has the right ticket that polishing kit is awesome! A bit pricy at first but the projects that are created after is well worth it. I like to think when it does come to the use of airbrushes especially on scale model painting i like to gradually build up my body paint. Its the lesser challenge when it comes to removing the paint you applied to get rid of orange peel and the such!! also give yourself the chance to go ahead and make mistakes' it is practice that gets us on the right track!! I say keep on wit the keepin on!

peace

Tito