GT40 WIP

[Cato]

Almost-

ready for "Under Glass".

[T70MkIII]

Stunning work, Cato - I have really enjoyed your build and learned a lot. My kit is still in the box pending finishing a lot of other stuff, but I certainly appreciate your "heads up" on a number of issues. Looking forward to seeing your final display pics.

[Cato]

  On 9/13/2010 at 9:56 AM, T70MkIII said:

Stunning work, Cato - I have really enjoyed your build and learned a lot. My kit is still in the box pending finishing a lot of other stuff, but I certainly appreciate your "heads up" on a number of issues. Looking forward to seeing your final display pics.

Thanks MkIII.

You may have NONE of the issues I had and you certainly may build another type of car-meaning not a 'track rat' as I chose to go. I just want to see more of this kit undertaken and a variety of finishing philosophies is welcomed.

[old-hermit]

I'm not much for this type of car but you have done an excellent job Cato. The "pre raced" finish is perfect.

[Jim Gibbons]

Cato, your work has been remarkable and impressive on this kit. I've enjoyed following your progress, and overcoming its faults. It's too bad Tamiya didn't do it in this scale, as it would have "worked." I've pretty much come to the the conclusion that I'm going to pass on this kit, as my disability income is too tight to splurge on something that has as many design flaws as described. As a former engineer, I'm a bit picky. Your build has been a great journey, though, and I'm looking forward to its "Under Glass" posting.

[Cato]

Thanks to both of you guys. Hermit, as I said earlier, my finishing ideas won't be everyone's cup of tea. We all like bright and shiney models-unless they're rat rods! But thanks for your appreciation.

Jim, I understand your frustration with the issues of this kit. I'm glad my work has 'saved' you the cost of entry, only to be disappointed with the kit in your hands. This thing really was kicking and screaming every step of the way to this point. I made compromised solutions for it's flaws but at least I can gaze on that beautiful shape when done. I just plain love the car.

I'm firmly convinced that the existing aftermarket stuff for this car does nothing to materially improve the fundamental faults. Suspension components with accurate joints and thicknesses would go a long way to help. So would a correctly operating front clip to display all the hidden hard work. Trump really should have done a lot better for the price. Maybe if they got their ship and aircraft guys to do this kit the fidelity would have been better. Only the shape is perfect. Too bad the engineering suffered.

I'm still fiddling with last minute stuff and I have to cut some glass for it's case.

[vontrips]

You guys would have loved The Goodwood Revival yesterday!

Have many GT 40's?

How about 7 of them?!

Insane!

[Cato]

  On 9/19/2010 at 4:41 PM, vontrips said:

You guys would have loved The Goodwood Revival yesterday!

Have many GT 40's? How about 7 of them?!

Insane!

STOP! You're causing GT40-Envy!

[Rob Hall]

Wow...the most original GT-40s I've seen at once is 1, once at the Copperstate 1000 road rally and one years ago at the Barrett-Jackson auction. Speaking of Goodwood events, I'm thinking of taking my summer vacation next year to include going to the Goodwood Festival of Speed in July.

The Trumpeter build up turned out beautiful--great work!

[Jim Gibbons]

John, I'm so envious that you made it to Goodwood! It's one of my (likely unattainable) dreams to make it there someday. At least the Lime Rock Vintage Festival is nearby. I don't think I've ever seen more than two GT40s at the same place and time.

[vontrips]

Guys,

If you ever get the chance to come over ...go for it!

How about this for a taster?

4 Spitfires, a Hurricane and a Bearcat ready for take off plus the man...Sir Stirling and his Osca!

The light was also absolutely perfect yesterday - even this part of England never usually looks this good!

Oh, and there were around 7 or 8 Lola T70 Spiders too!!! )

...and the GI's made it!

Edited September 19, 2010 by vontrips

[Jim Gibbons]

WOW, John, it looks like it was a show not to be missed. Sir Stirling will always have a heartfelt special place for me; a childhood hero along with Jim Clark. I was fortunate to receive the CMC 1/18 #722 Mercedes Benz 300SLR diecast from my brother as a birthday present last year. Back in the mid 90's, there was a great WW2 airshow at the Dutchess County Airport here in the Hudson Valley of NY. I went early one year, and at about 7:00 am, five P51-D Mustangs flew over in formation before queuing for landing. There were many other WW2 aircraft, including the B-17 paint scheme replica that starred in the movie "Memphis Belle." Vintage cars and aircraft are meant to be together!

[Cato]

Still fiddling with the fit of the rear clip to chassis and discovered the fancy cap on the overflow tank is the culprit. So I'll downsize that and hopefully the deck will close better:

It never ends... :lol:

[Cato]

A small detail I forgot to mention. I shortened the steering shaft by .250". If not, the wheel sticks out in the drivers chest and the model looks like a child's pedal car:

Even if it's 'accurate', the look is much better with a shortened shaft-much like the lowered front suspension. I my opinion, those two things are pretty glaring errors for a manufacturer to allow out. Unfortunately there are several others in this kit.

[Cato]

Now complete and posted in the 'Under glass' section.

[Jim Gibbons]

I'm going to miss this topic; kudos to your soldiering through this kit.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Cato, you a fantastic job with the GT, by the way Modelexpo has a 40% OFF plastic kit sale running until the end of Sept. Although they don't have them in stock one can be ordered for (if I remember correctly) around $155 bucks.

[Cato]

Thanks Jim and Don.

Don-I HATE to say I've been thinking about another one-but I have. This one beat the snot out of me but that IS an attractive price-thanks for causing me another headache!

[stevieboy3]

  On 8/15/2010 at 2:14 AM, Len Woodruff said:

Thanks so much for keeping this thread going Cato! I have the kit plus the KA Models after market kit but I have yet to start because of other projects.

Hi Guys,

Although I have been a member for a couple of years I lost all my passwords and eventually gave up but when I was directed to this thread I just had to restart.

I started my GT40 a few days ago and I am using the KA detail set a set of decals to do the *8 Alan Mann racing car and the resin spare wheel, I know there is a lot of negativety about this kit but my hat is off to Trumpeter for ""having the guts"" to do it.

I'm going to be making mine with what is in the boxes and I have no desire to alter/change anything, at the moment I'm prepping the body and have opened up the air intakes at the sides of the car-the *8 is Yellow so I cannot get away with painting the intakes black as I'll almost certainly spoil it, My probs with the kit and detail set are the instructions but i'll do my best It's also the 1st 1/12 kit I have done in a while and I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks for looking

Stevie

Edited October 20, 2010 by stevieboy3

[stevieboy3]

Test fitting the rear spoiler

The detail set

More later and thanks for looking

Stevieboy

[Cato]

Steve,

Welcome to my build thread. I was always trying to encourage dialog about this kit.

You have chosen an unusual build philosophy. You will build it out of box (with those highly visible compromises) yet add expensive details and perform body work. My approach was to improve the kit's poorer visible parts and scratch build those details I felt would give the car an 'authentic' personality.

Do you have good references for the Mann car? It's an excellent, colorful choice. The few builds I've seen on the web have shown that builders are largely making ' decal and color' versions of their favorite car but not doing the unique team modifications of the specific car. As stated in my build, they all had different, fuel pump, plumbing, wiring and cockpit equipment at the time of the race. The kit comes with the general equipment of the #2 car and still gets much of that wrong-six fuel pumps for instance.

Being in the UK, I hope you have found good Mann reference and can share that. I'm surprised you're opening the side vents-it's virtually un-noticed from the outside and hidden by the inner structure when done. However, I applaud your effort and can't wait to see the result.

I was very concerned by the kit's ride height and spent time modifying it which pays big dividends for readily visible improvements. I felt tiny bits of mostly-hidden, expensive PE and cast-metal were less obvious and in contrast to the kit's somewhat toy-like standard presentation. Like the water pump pulley and some radiator parts. I also found that many of the KA parts were just replications of perfectly adequate kit parts-like the half-shafts and exhaust system. Careful work with brush, drills, pins and wires can make a big improvement without them.

Unless you find a way to tilt open the nose and hinge the oil tank hatch, much of your detailing is gone-things like the brake rotors, lines, ducts, spare and cooling system are mostly hidden. Trump also gives you very poorly engineered front wheel mounting systems and accurate calipers for the PE rotors won't work with that. I wanted very much to have a wheel off to display the pin-drive hubs, brakes and suspension of the original but the closed nose prevents that. Plus I don't have the skills needed to machine all those parts.

So best luck and I welcome a fresh approach to building this great car. I can always learn and I'll be watching.

[stevieboy3]

Hi Cato,

I did read the parts that you mentioned about ride height and the steering shaft and they have been "playing" on my mind all day obviously we cant have the steering wheel that far out so I'll do the same, I also agree with you about some of the KA parts they could have made it cheaper by not doing the exhausts etc.

When the car is done I intend to display it with everything open in a display cabinet it will also be going to various shows around the UK once done.

As for references I have a couple of close up shots of the real car practising-which I cannot show as its copyrighted by Flickr and these 2 pics

I only build cars for my own pleasure so I am not to worrid about whats underneath I have looked at some of your pics and my mind is going overtime but I think I need to get the body painted properly as once that has been done I can relax a bit.

Best wishes and thanks for the info/pics

Steve

[Cato]

  On 10/17/2010 at 3:44 PM, stevieboy3 said:

I only build cars for my own pleasure so I am not to worrid about whats underneath I have looked at some of your pics and my mind is going overtime but I think I need to get the body painted properly as once that has been done I can relax a bit.

Very good Steve-I understand your idea now. A heads-up before you squirt on paint; there are fit issues with the finished body work if you're not careful.

Mock-up all the pieces after you remove seams and sprue tabs. These will line up and close nicely at this stage, however, when the inner structures are glued in place, they will pull the outer panel edges out of alignment. In particular, the rear clip lower front edges (where it meets the chassis) will not close flush. You can test this by using white glue (easily opened again) to join the panels and re-test fit. The solution is to heat the narrow area of the roof (on front edge of rear glass) and slightly bend it upwards (where the pin is to hold it shut)-this will lower the lower edges to close better. Another red flag; the chassis pins that rear clip pivots on are very fragile. I braced mine with styrene gussets which helps but you must use care as you will attach and open the rear many times during the build.

Other fit issues I found on my kit: the lower rear edges of the front fenders didn't spread enough to fit the chassis guides-I removed material with Dremel from their inner sides to get a better shut. The inner wheel panels in front won't fit right over the pins on the chassis-I removed the pins as they do nothing to hold the fenders in or open the front. The door eyebrows are vital to keep the door roofs from standing above the roof. Test glue the inner door structures and check door shut lines at the chassis; you may need to tweek the doors or inner structures to get the doors to stay tight against the body. Also check the fit of the oil tank hatch with the fenders ON the chassis-mine got tighter and had to be relieved on the sides.

I hope any of this is not needed on your particular kit but if overall appearance is important, you should check for these problems. Sorry for the sermon but I hope this is helpful and if you have different or better ways to do these things, I'd love to see them.

[stevieboy3]

Hi Cato,

Not a sermon, I always like to hear what has happened to other builders models so I can look out and at the same time if I do something first I dont mind telling people, I was reading Mark Melchiori's reveiw in last Decs issue of Scale Auto and some of the problems he had so I'm thinking of maybe replacing the oil lines with detail Master braided lines I will definetly post up more pics as I go along.

Not looking forward to the seats but the dash should be fun with the KA bits put in.

Best wishes

Steve

[Harry P.]

Steve,

I suggest you start a new topic of your own buildup instead of adding on here. More people will see your work if you post it under it's own topic.