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Posted

This is going to be a very basic question for everyone so excuse my ignorance, I am back to modeling after many years away. I am doing a Levi Garrett Reher and Morrison pro stock and it will be a yellow and white paint job. The first car I did back was a single paint so polishing it with superfine grit finishing sandpaper was no problem. Can I use the same finishing paper or will there be a problem with where the two colors meet?

Posted

I'm no expert at painting but have read that to polish the demarcation line would be risky at best, but to apply clear to the model to raise the paint level than polish it out.

Posted

the trick is to very slowly build up the paint of the yellow coat (you always want to lay the lighter colour down first)

by building the paint up slowly it gets a nice deep colour without getting really thick which will help you when youre ready to polish it

i would say 3-4 coats of clear should be enough to cover up the transistion and then you can polish up the clear without worrying about going through the base

but if your not sure just go ahead and practice on some spare bodies or hoods (everyone has plenty of spare hood to practice on)

Posted

Thank you diymirage. After the 3-4 coats of clear do I polish that with the high grit polishing paper like I would with a regular paint job?

Posted

The trick is to minimize a raised line. As prev posted shoot a light coat of clear after taping. This will seal the edge from bleeding under the tape. Then when you shoot your second color shoot from behind the tape side(not into the tape)...this will allow a thinner line when tape is removed...wink.gif

Posted (edited)

What do you mean by shooting the second color "from behind the tape side?"

Not Mike, but I believe he is suggesting you not spray with the edge of the tape facing you, spray with the tape in the foreground, so you avoid paint build up.

Picture the edge of the piece of tape where it meets the area to be painted, but real big... like you were looking through a microscope. A thin piece of tape would look about an inch tall! That 'edge' is where the paint will build up and that is what you want to avoid.

More importantly (to me anyhow) is avoid using clear paint on top of white. Some clears will turn yellow over time... especially if you use enamel! I suggest you use lacquers from Tamiya or the newer colors from Testors. There are other sources of lacquers, but for now you may want to stick with a "model friendly" paint brand. HTH

Edited by Jon Cole
Posted

Not Mike, but I believe he is suggesting you not spray with the edge of the tape facing you, spray with the tape in the foreground, so you avoid paint build up.

Picture the edge of the piece of tape where it meets the area to be painted, but real big... like you were looking through a microscope. A thin piece of tape would look about an inch tall! That 'edge' is where the paint will build up and that is what you want to avoid.

More importantly (to me anyhow) is avoid using clear paint on top of white. Some clears will turn yellow over time... especially if you use enamel! I suggest you use lacquers from Tamiya or the newer colors from Testors. There are other sources of lacquers, but for now you may want to stick with a "model friendly" paint brand. HTH

Thanks Jon....you hit it exactly. As I shoot lacquers I love HOK and their intercoat clear....lays real thin.Here is a 69 Camaro tu tone...no raised line, I shoot a lot of tu tones and I will say that it is the little things that make a difference.:P

IMG_1152.jpg

Posted

I recall that someone drew a diagram of this "paint buildup" years ago in one of the two hobby magazines. It showed real well how the paint edge would look, if you could see a cross section; only magnafied. By chance would anyone remember what mag & issue # that would be?

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