slapshot

Yea man SC builder's rule not sure where surf side is located but I'm located approx.20 miles from Savannah,GA.Nice looking build post more.

I made a pack with my self about model forums in general, if you don"t have something nice to say than don't say it. That's a awesome looking willy you got there & the decals look like they were painted on. Is that a resin kit or did you fill in the front head lights?

I did a little mock up work with the button & tuck today.I think that once it is completed it will be pretty sharp. Thanks for bring it to our attention.

Well this is my first attempt @ duplicating the button tufted upholstery. I had to use straight pins because I have not been able to locate the rivets. If you use this on a vertical surface like the wall of a van interior, drilling the holes for the pins is not a option & cutting the pins flush with the back side of the foam & gluing may force the pins to back out.Not sure if it will work,the interior walls of my project is 2 x 2.5 & that's allot of pins.

Maybe we should create a elected panel of our best builders ( we all know who they are )to offer constructive criticism on our models. If you would like to have your model critiqued in a constructive way than post on a sticky created for this purpose. We could rotate the the panel by elections annually. If not than you can still post your builds in the normal venues.I know this is a rough idea And would need some adjusting. Just my two cents.

Nice tip clay. I to soak my tips but I use acetone. Really prevents those aggravating months for sure.

For me it has to be the 1957 AMT flip vette. The best I could do was to just leave the front half flipped up.

I think that Jim & Art gave some good advice.The only thing that I can add is that Coast Airbrush has a Paasche h set for $46.00 plus shipping & they also carry lots of other hobby related products as well. http://www.coastairbrush.com/thanks.asp?tx=4EB48496C8246494J&st=Completed&amt=20.95&cc=USD&cm=37212&item_number=

Did you do any thing special to the tires surface like sand it down or use alcohol to clean it? When you mixed your paint did you add something to the flat white or thin it some? Thanks in advance.

I like my models shiny. Shinier the better. Every model that I build I build it the way I would build a 1:1 if I won the lottery. People have been trying to make cars shiny since day one. Go into any Wal-Mart, Petboys etc. & you will see a lot of space dedicated to products that claim to make your 1:1 ride shiny. Also shiny shows flaws more readily than semi or flat painted surfaces. So the quality of the paint job is subject to more visible scrutiny. I think all representations of ones work is subject to the builders choice & ability to control the outcome whether it be flat ,semi or gloss. To throw one modeler under the bus because his model is too shiny in your opinion & toy like hints to me that maybe you do not know (edit)

That's just to pretty for words. Did you shoot the blue over BC02 Orion silver & reduce it one to one? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be using HOK for the first time on my next project.

Here is a few that I just threw together for your visual pleasure and my insufferably large ego

Ben the air compressor was purchased at Lowe's for $160. You bet it like all air compressors makes noise.The pros about this compressor is that it recycles less frequently because it has a six gallon tank and the ability to regulate the air pressure & use it to run other non hobby related air type tools around the home. If noise is a issue you could check out a co2 cylinder like the ones used for inflating balloons etc etc. You might try a welding supply house or check out your local grocery store and inquire as to where they get there tanks from. Hope this helps .

37 Ford coupe one day at a time.

If you're looking for quiet, the best solution is a medium sized CO2 tank and a regulator. That being said I have this one & it works great for me .Like Marc said threy all will create noise & you will have to plan your painting schedule according.

Greenlight all the man .Looks great

Ditto on the Fotki

Yea I thought that lacquer thinner would work. I appreciate the confirmation. I will try out the reduced next time. All though I do like to control the paint viscosity.Thanks

I bought a couple colors of choice from Coast Airbrushing & the House of color technical man which suggests using a reducer. My first question concerning the reducer is it just Lacquer thinner & do you need a special primmer? It seems that the manual pertains to a metal surface in the prep instructions. I use Tester's Aluminum plate buffing for priming & enamel paint for most of my projects. I especially like Boyd's paints but I'm running out of colors

I just finished my first attempt @ building a Revell 55 Chevy. I painted it with Testors Napoleonic purple &Voodo grey .I cut the rear chassis & rebuilt the rear section to accommodate the larger tires & to lower the over all stance a bit. I took a couple chances outside the box & I think that things turned out well. My camera battery died so I will post more pics later. Guess I used up most of the juice @ the Southern Nats yesterday.Thanks for looking.

One thing that I found different but a huge improvement was the extended PVC pipes on the table legs. Made viewing the models easier & less strain on the back. Plus it kept the models safer because there was less leaning or hovering over the tables.

Boy that little blue ford really grabbed my attention. I kept coming back to it just for another look.I listed it as one of my favorites as well. I could not capture it with my cheapo camera because it was on that rotisserie type pedestal.Largest event that I have attended so far. My wife and I had a great time. Yea it was worth the 4.5 drive time.

Thought I would share a sampling of the things I shaw @ the Souyhern Nats.