slapshot

Regardless of the subject matter of this post you just cannot post a picture of that Impala and not expect a comment. If there was ever a Pearl that beauty is surely it.

Steve just how hot did it get this summer in Phoenix? My wife & I spent a couple of days at the Pointe @ Squaw Peak in Nov.1987 & the weather was awesome. Went back to Tucson in July 2006 & no offense but I'm never coming back, dry heat my @$$.

Coast Airbrush has a Paasche H set for sale @ $42.00. It contains two heads 3 & 5, 10' hose, two 1 .oz bottles & other goodies. I'm new to model cars (working on # 7) & have used this airbrush on all but the first one & Donn's right it's one heck of a tool for shooting paint or clear. .As always a picture is worth a thousand words & I'm a photo hooker anyway. This 57 Vette was shot with Boyd 's gloss black with no clear coat or polish. It turned out pretty good for a single action airbrush. Of course one learns as one progresses & I have added cutting & buffing to my bag of tricks with alot of help from Dave & Steve.I was planning on buying a spray gun ,but after some thought I think that I will buy another Paasche H for shooting urethane clears.

Steve,Dave or anyone else who has a dedicated airbrush or spray gun for spraying auto clears.Could you please post a picture & some redeeming qualities or suprises that you may have encountered after the purchase.Dave is this the gun that you have?

Built this one stock from a 67 roaster vette except for the pipes & the distributor

I'm no expert at painting but have read that to polish the demarcation line would be risky at best, but to apply clear to the model to raise the paint level than polish it out.

David, The paint scheme looks fantastic & the subject is unique to say the least. Those who thought that the unfortunate paint issue was actually part of the paint scheme was spot on. Here is a couple pics of my completed Nova, except for the hood. This probably was not the best choice for a first time try at polishing a paint job but it was handy. Darn car has more square edges than a block of wood. But as corny as it sounds it was a lesson learned in how to apply urethane clear & polish a paint job correctly,next time. I found out that Urethane clears are not so scary done the right way & polishing the paint is yet another step in the process of show quality finishes needed to compete at the tables. Once again thanks to all for the helpful info. Gary

Those models are a fine example of what it takes be competitive on the tables & win. There's more to a show stopper model than meets the eye & I for for one appreciate the time & knowledge that you & Steve have shared with all of us who are following this sub forum.I do look forward to competing in the near future. It seems that every time that I think I'm close another step pops up. What ever it takes I will get there & this forum & the ones like it sure make that path allot easier to follow. One thought comes to mine about Urethane clears, can it be removed if one sands through the clear & paint while polishing the model. Like a brake fluid bath etc.etc.? Thanks Gary

The term cut & buffing means to polish with the sand paper(cut) & to (buff) wax the surface after the final cutting in Right? For the first buffing I used Novus #1 & for the cutting in I started with 3200 up to 1200 with soap and water. Should or could I switch to a auto wax like Meguiar"s Tech wax 2.0 or should I continue on with the buffing with the Novus #1. Thanks Gary

Hey David thought you might like to see the end results of my first urethane clear paint job polished with a little wax to booth.The base coat is Ice Blue pearl by Boyd.Under lamp light it appears almost silver.The coat looks deep & 1:1 like first hand. The polishing really brings out the depth of the finish.Once again thanks for your help.Boy thats one more step in the building process. I understand now how one can take three to six months & more to complete one model.Oh by the way the trash got polished out.

Truck rocks.

I bought one can't wait to built it.Nice work.

Interesting,I like it.

Thanks for the link. I will order soon. I do have a up wright type vacuum(Dyson)that I vacuum the floor first & take it back into the house before my wife finds out that I have been using one of her prized toys. I then spritz the floor & Lay painter's plastic drop cloth over the floor etc. etc. I'm convinced that the imperfections are in the urethane clear mix,or at least till next time when Murphy raises his head & creates more confusion. I'm so annual I will take a lint tape roller & use it as the last step before I shoot the paint.

Thanks David for your expertise & responding. Yes to all of your suggestions except the straining part. I did not run the final mix through a strainer. I take as many precautions that I can think of. I clean the airbrush with lacquers lay down plastic on the floor ,vacuum the floors, vacuum all areas of my spray booth & sprites water on all surfaces to help eliminate the possibles of dust etc.I will use the 4-1-3 next time as well. Thanks for taking the time to respond ,Gary

David, I shot my hood with concept DCU2021 @ two to one the hardener @ one & the reducer @ three to one. After the application it looked great.I was pleased to say the least. I then placed it in the dehydrator for six hours @ 105 degrees. When I removed it i noticed three small imperfections that looked like small vertical bubbles.I know that it is not trash due to the great pains that I went through to avoid such matters. Funny thing is that you have to hold the hood up to the light @ angles to see the imperfections.This was my first time using urethane clears & next time I will use the 4-1-& double up on my reducer.Also the air pressure on my airbrush was set @ 35.lbs.Any thoughts on the air type bubbles.Thanks in advance Gary.

I really like the interior.The seat belts and dash all come together nicely. The wheels are cool & the paint look nice as well.

As oppose to 4 to 1 to 1, I went with two to 1 to three. I used one quarter increments & reduced it a little more. I do like to experiment & with mixing these small amounts I only wasted about one ounce. My main concern was that it would be to thick. Turned out it was a little to thin. I will make the adjustment next time. Every model is a pratice for the next one. I kinda went with Tom Miller's formula. He has a 1950 Austin Gasser posted under the New Kit Review sub forum. He clear coated it with Urethane clear & boy does it look awesome. As promised here is a pic of the hood. I do not know how one could get this any shiner. But if there is a way I will try it.

Well, I shot my first model with Urethane clear today & it went well, I think. The car body is in the dehydrator & it looks pretty dog gone shiny. The mixing ratio .5-.25-to.75 worked out great so far. It went on wet even got a small run near the lower rear quarter panel.I took a q-tip & held it to the drip & it sucked it right up. Will post pic after it gas's out. Next time I will wear a long sleeve shirt.I have one heck of a ventilation system in my shop & this stuff really stinks. Be careful out there do like ED says.Protect yourself & take extreme caution with your lungs.Thanks you guys for all the help. Jeff I apologize for taking over your thread that surly was not my intentions.

Yea I hear what you are saying. Do you use a spoon or or something to transfer the clear from the quart container to your mixing jar.Here is a pic of my mixing container with marked level for each ingredient.I think that I'm going to use a large table spoon to spoon out the proper amount from the quart container.

Awesome pics Thanks for sharing. More than a day trip for me. Will plan better next year.

I'm sure that my set up is pretty close to the gauge reading. I shoot mostly with a Paasche H @ 32-35 .lbs. I have noticed that when I activate the the trigger mechanism that the poundage will drop approximately two pounds & I will adjust the air regulator to the desired air pressure. Here is a pic of my set up. When you guys transfer the urethane clear from the quart size container do you dip it out or use a baster? The hardener & reducer have tip & pour openings.

Interesting.What dose it mean 10lbs. @ the tip? Is there some kind of formula or regulator sequence from the air compressor,say like the air compressor gauge actual reading is twenty lbs & when under a load its ten lbs at the tip?

This is great info because shooting urethane coats sims like such a mystery. I bought a quart of Concept DCU2021,DCX61 hardener & the reducer DT885. I plan on trying it soon. How long of a window once mixed is there before it gels? Should I mix just enough to make one coat wait ten minutes or so (not sure)then mix up another or will it last a few hours?

Out ****ing standing,Thanks for posting.