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Posted

I have a partially assembles truck that I'd like to rebuild. I'm planning on stripping the paint from the cab/hood, and doing some other modifications to it. The problem is I'm in a quandry. The cab is completely assembled with the interior & glass installed. Do I need to take the galss out before I put it in the Purple Bath? Will the Purple Stuff help me disassemble (weaken glue joints)? What's the best way of removing the interior tub?

Thanks.

Posted

That depends on the cab. What is it? If need be, we can always come up with spare windsheilds. I've put the "Glass" in the purple stuff and have been ok. But, it's better if you let the chemical do all the work of removing paint and glue. I imagine it's an AMT kit? Usually, the tub glues to the bottom of the widshield or door glass. Kits like the Mack R or any of the White Motors kits(Autocar, Diamond Reo, etc) are one piece of glass for the whole cab. Your tub will have more to grab onto if that is the case.

It will weaken glue joints, but depending on how much glue is there, and how it was built, some joints just won't separate. Example:

My Mack R model's front bumper. I was going to restore this truck with only minor mods. However, for a 17 yr old glue joint, I just could not get the bumper to separate from the right frame rail. So, I chopped it down. The glue I used was what any 13 yr old would use(at least in 1991):The good old Testors in the red tube. I didn't use 1/2 a tube, but I did always scrape chrome and paint from mating surfaces.

100_0796.jpg

It didn't give me much trouble as far as disassembly. Bear in mind that you may have to soak it, work it, then soak it again with many joints. I have to do that with a lot of my used parts that I buy. Also, you will always have the part the cracks or even breaks, so be prepared to repair or replace smaller, or thinner parts.

I know there are better ways to explain it all, but at least it was a start.

Posted

Castrol Super Clean/Purple Power will not harm clear styrene. It's completely safe to dip the whole thing if you want. Just don't put any chrome parts in unless you want them stripped of the plating, and make sure there's no metal parts because it doesn't play well with CSC/Purple Power.

that stuff sure don't I put some in a Coke can one day the next day not only was the paint gone but the can as well. what a mess.

And most resin parts don't work with the cleaner will turn into a ball of gum.

Most of the time I let mine set a few day's (a week or so) and they fall rite apart.

Posted

Purple power loves to eat metal! especially diecast.

I dunked a old duster I build when I was younger. I had used superglue. Purple power helped brittle the glue and everything snapped safely apart.

Posted

Thanks for the comments, guys. I was a little concerned about what Purple Power would do. I did know it would strip chrome, as I've used it for that before.

Ray, yes, it's an AMT kit. Specifically the Kenworth W923.

Posted

I'll have to try that on some die-cast, sounds cool.

Question, It there a preferrence between Purple Power and SuperClean? For record SuperClean hasn't been a Castrol product for a few years.

I have used the SuperClean for for years.

AzTom

Posted

soakin in super clean has not help me with any glue joints, just great for stripping t5he paint. the only thing ive found that helps with glue is to stick in the freezer for a few hours so it gets a lil brittle, but becarefull with the parts they get brittle too.

dennis

Posted

soakin in super clean has not help me with any glue joints, just great for stripping t5he paint. the only thing ive found that helps with glue is to stick in the freezer for a few hours so it gets a lil brittle, but becarefull with the parts they get brittle too.

dennis

DID you let the parts set about a week or so and see what happens.

Posted

DID you let the parts set about a week or so and see what happens.

ive had parts soak for 3 1/2 weaks cause i forgot them when i got called out for work out of state. still no help on the glue, i wish it would cause ive got alot of glue bombs!

dennis

Posted

What type of glue? If it is testors style tube/cement glue, I had no luck, but superglue the purple power made it brittle enough to pop most pieces right off cleanly.

Posted

What type of glue? If it is testors style tube/cement glue, I had no luck, but superglue the purple power made it brittle enough to pop most pieces right off cleanly.

Good question about the type of glue it is.

I once heard that if it's testors glue, just put the part in some water and thenplace the part into something and then stick it in the freezer over night. The water will freeze up I guess and snap the parts apart easy. I'm not sure if this trick works on other type of glues or not.

Posted

Good question about the type of glue it is.

I once heard that if it's testors glue, just put the part in some water and thenplace the part into something and then stick it in the freezer over night. The water will freeze up I guess and snap the parts apart easy. I'm not sure if this trick works on other type of glues or not.

i havent tried that yet, but thats a good idea. im not sure what type of glue was on the models ive bought used, i would imajine it would be testers or some type of model glue like it.

dennis

Posted

It will work some joints better than others. However, some will require some handiwork. Work the parts loose by hand, then do some cutting with your favorite knife. Don't force anything, just get as much separation as you can, then drop it back in. But, some just won't break. Hence the shortened bumper on my MACK.

As to the cab, Jim, you should be able to work that one loose. If you can pop a window out, you can work it by hand from various spots.

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