Decal's I am really starting to hate them!!

[davyou5]

Okay now that I am calm .

Recently on two of Revell's models that I have been working on or am in the process of working on, I have had allot of trouble with the Decals not sticking. I will end up gluing them on, or just ruining them by way of frustration. Any tips or how toos with the Decals? Also what is the Drying time for decals?

[VW Dave]

David - Based on your post about the '69 Nova you built, I'm assuming the decals aren't the problem:

" I had one hell of a time getting the Decals to stick, that may have been due to the Car polish/wax, I don't know for sure, bt maybe someone does."

If you are waxing your paint jobs before decal aplication, that is most likely the source of your adhesion issue.

[Terry Sumner]

Here's a great tip... Get some Future floor polish. If you don't know what Future is, it is not a wax, it's actually a clear acrylic liquid that airplane modelers are using as an entire clear coat now for decal application...among a dozen other things. In the spot you want to lay the decal down just dab on a spot of Future with a paint bruch. Put your decal right in the puddle of Future. When it dries, it will suck that decal right down! And don't worry about the puddle...it's self-leveling.

Another thing I use Future for is attaching window "glass". It won't fog the plastic like superglue and is invisible when dry. However this will only work when you already have a nice precise fit as it's not a "filler" type of glue. But that said, if you need to use superglue and don't want to run the risk of fogging the plastic, dip the glass in Future first. Let it dry. Then you can use Superglue and the plastic won't fog. I think all plastic "glass" should be dipped in Future anyway...it makes the plastic "glass" super clear!

[vaughn]

Have patience when working with decals. Let sit in water abut 30 seconds,lay on a dry cloth and gently remove decal. I use Solvaset brushed on the area and then afterward apply again. Leave alone..dont prod..poke or anything. The solvaset will shrink decal into curves and over other places. Works for me. Be patient. Have sprayed both laquer and enamel clears over them with no problem.

Everthing is a decal except the blue.

Edited October 18, 2010 by vaughn

[Lownslow]

for the white glue trick how much per cup of water

[davyou5]

David - Based on your post about the '69 Nova you built, I'm assuming the decals aren't the problem:

" I had one hell of a time getting the Decals to stick, that may have been due to the Car polish/wax, I don't know for sure, bt maybe someone does."

If you are waxing your paint jobs before decal aplication, that is most likely the source of your adhesion issue.

MMM... your half right, I did have trouble with a couple of them on the Nova after applying the wax, but this time around I did not do that. For the Nova, I had just bought the wax so I was in an experimental stage learning how to use it, and I definitely learned something there .

Edited October 18, 2010 by davyou5

[davyou5]

Here's a great tip... Get some Future floor polish. If you don't know what Future is, it is not a wax, it's actually a clear acrylic liquid that airplane modelers are using as an entire clear coat now for decal application...among a dozen other things. In the spot you want to lay the decal down just dab on a spot of Future with a paint bruch. Put your decal right in the puddle of Future. When it dries, it will suck that decal right down! And don't worry about the puddle...it's self-leveling.

Another thing I use Future for is attaching window "glass". It won't fog the plastic like superglue and is invisible when dry. However this will only work when you already have a nice precise fit as it's not a "filler" type of glue. But that said, if you need to use superglue and don't want to run the risk of fogging the plastic, dip the glass in Future first. Let it dry. Then you can use Superglue and the plastic won't fog. I think all plastic "glass" should be dipped in Future anyway...it makes the plastic "glass" super clear!

Hi Terry,

Yes I remember that stuff from when I was a kid, my mother use to lay it down on the floor after cleaning it . I will have to go and get some soon if I can find it.

Have patience when working with decals. Let sit in water abut 30 seconds,lay on a dry cloth and gently remove decal. I use Solvaset brushed on the area and then afterward apply again. Leave alone..dont prod..poke or anything. The solvaset will shrink decal into curves and over other places. Works for me. Be patient. Have sprayed both laquer and enamel clears over them with no problem.

Everthing is a decal except the blue.

Okay thanks for the tip vaughn, I will look into Solvaset.

[davyou5]

Just a few drops will do, 2-4 is usually what I use.

Ok, since you didn't wax this time, & still had problems, use the white glue in your water & let your decals set about 30 seconds in that. The lay the decal out on a paper towel for about 10 seconds, apply, & use some Microscale Micro Set, as seen here:

http://www.microscal...Product_Count=1

It's also a good idea to brush a coating of Micro Set over the are you want to put the decal on first, then apply the decal & brsuh a coat of Micro Set over it..

If you need a stronger solution after using Micro Set, follow with Microscale Micro Sol, here:

http://www.microscal...Product_Count=0

In either case, but especially with the Micro Sol, make sure your decal is exactly where you want it when you apply the setting solution to avoid tearing the decal, as until it dries it will be rubbery & very prone to tearing. If the decal wrinkles up do not panic!!! It will straighten out & lie down flat as the setting solution evaporates.

There are other setting solutions, made by Testors & Walthers to name two, but I don't have any experience with them to tell you what to do with them.

Okay Thanks for the Information I am looking at the products right now .

[Ddms]

This might be a case of too much information (or misinformation!), or too obvious, but over-soaking can be a problem. Instead of Microset, I mix a few drops of detergent into the soaking water. Once a decal has been soaking for about 30 seconds, I'll start testing it with a soft tip to see if it slides on the backing. Once it moves (even a smidgen), bath-time is over. At that point, if there's a glob of water on the surface, I use the corner of a tissue to pull the water off. Just touch it to the edge.

I've had good luck waiting until the decal is well-fixed in the correct spot and nearly dry before applying a few drops of straight Microset. If you apply MS while it's wet, there's a risk of moving it, and you're back to Square One. Both Microset and Microsol (for curved and uneven surfaces) seem to work just as well if the decal is fairly dry.

Edited October 19, 2010 by Ddms

[davyou5]

This might be a case of too much information (or misinformation!), or too obvious, but over-soaking can be a problem.

You know now that I think about it, I have done this quite a few times, Revell's instructions say leave it in the water for a minute, so this means 1 minute is going overbroad? Okay I am going to change that habbit and leave it in for only 30 seconds. How ever all of the other tricks and tips I am going to apply, Thanks for bringing me to light on that .

Edited October 19, 2010 by davyou5

[charlie8575]

I soak decals only until they move freely, and hopefully no more. Decal set and so forth does help, too. I usually find about 30-45 seconds is adequate for soaking decals before application.

Charlie Larkin

[davyou5]

I soak decals only until they move freely, and hopefully no more. Decal set and so forth does help, too. I usually find about 30-45 seconds is adequate for soaking decals before application.

Charlie Larkin

@ all, since I finished my 68 Charger and got all of the decals on except for one, but thanks to the advice about the white glue in water I went fairly smoothly .

@ Charlie

Yeah since read about that here on the forum I did just that, smaller decals only needed about 25 Seconds then it was sliding off.

Anyway Thanks for the information guys .

[Lownslow]

Just a few drops will do, 2-4 is usually what I use.

thanks that solved my curling problem