Fuel Injection Stacks

[aarondupont]

Hi all: I'm making my own fuel injection stacks. I have K&S aluminum tubing in 1/8". I want to flare the tips. My automotive flaring tool goes down to 3/16. I probably could machine a block with a hole just slightly less than 1/8", but I really don't want to go to that much trouble. Any ideas? Also, anybody had any luck flaring plastic tubing? Thanks in advance. Aaron Dupont

[torinobradley]

This guy's got you covered.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39614

[aarondupont]

Andrew: Thanks for your reply. I reread that whole thread. It does not talk about flaring the tips. I am going to use styrene rod to mount the tubes to my manifold. Aaron Dupont

[Scale-Master]

You mention you "could machine a block"... So you have mill? Lathe?

The K&S aluminum tubing is relatively soft.

If you have a lathe you can turn a flaring tool from a wood dowel. Something that looks a bit like a stubbly sharpened pencil. You can even leave a flange on it to act as a depth guide for uniformity. Then wrap one round of tape around your aluminum stock and chuck it in the live chuck. Put the dowel/flaring tool in the tail stock and flare away... If you only have a mill, there is a little more set-up involved, but it can be done too.

Edited January 20, 2011 by Scale-Master

[Guest Markus355]

or chuck the tubing in the lathe, and use a dead center with a little grease on it for lub and flare them that way

[aarondupont]

Mark & Mark: Thank you for your ideas. I had thought about machining a block to be used with my automotive flare handle. But the other Mark has a great idea with the lathe. In fact I have a mini lathe that may just do the trick. Thank you again. The idea is so simple! That's what I've found with this forum. The sharing of ideas and techniques!

[Jon Cole]

And for the rest of us who don’t own a lathe, polish a length of 1/8 aluminum rod with metal polish. Then cut to the length you want, making as many as you need. Use a jewelers flat file to level each end. Now use a #11 blade shave out the inner area at one end on each piece. Next, stand each piece with the shaved end up; insert the point on a center punch, and give a light tap with a hammer. See pics:

Note that my stacks are quite short. If I was making taller stacks, I would try drilling a hole in a wood block, perhaps a little shorter in height than the stacks. Does that make sense? They may not be as perfect as actual machined parts, but they’re great for the diy guy.

[Guest Markus355]

jon, that was the other method i was going to suggest! it works great

[wisdonm]

I buy mine at Ferrules Direct. They are amazeingly cheap. The mini starter package is a great place to start. I use them for tailpipes and trim also.

[Greg Myers]

Something I think we can all do. Jon's method is it. Great idea, thanks.

[Trae]

I buy mine at Ferrules Direct. They are amazeingly cheap. The mini starter package is a great place to start. I use them for tailpipes and trim also.

I've got a stash of those as well, I just didn't know where they come from.

The wall thickness looks good in scale, and they aren't too difficult to shorten. And the $46 kit would be a lifetime supply!

But I haven't found them in longer lengths for the really tall stacks.

[wisdonm]

Sometimes you have to read the charts. They have part # N15020 which in 1/25 would be a 2" stack 20" tall for $14.31/1000 pieces. Or maybe # N25030 which is 2.6" x 30" for $17.01/1000. I usually don't cut them. I just use the right size.

Edited January 20, 2011 by wisdonm

[aarondupont]

Hey everybody: Thanks for all the replies. Don, I checked out that Ferrules Direct site. Good looking "stacks". All different sizes. A large supply that would last me forever. But Jon C, that is the idea I was looking for. Last night, while trying to sleep, I was thinking about an idea like yours. I just haven't been down to the workshop yet today. And again, thank you all for your replys Aaron Dupont

[torinobradley]

Andrew: Thanks for your reply. I reread that whole thread. It does not talk about flaring the tips. I am going to use styrene rod to mount the tubes to my manifold. Aaron Dupont

Oops, my bad. I thought that was the one about flaring the tubing with the punch. Sorry for the mix up. I know, proofread darnit...

[Nick Winter]

I always wondered if you could use brake line, and a brake line flaring tool.

Nick

[Greg Myers]

I always wondered if you could use brake line, and a brake line flaring tool.

Nick

I would think it would be rather big.

[aarondupont]

Most automotive brake line is 3/16" and larger. My automotive flaring tool starts at 3/16" I thought I had it made until I brought it in the workshop. 1/8" is about spot on. Anything larger looks huge to the eye. I'm about to go downstairs to the workshop and try out the center punch method. I'll let you know what happens. Aaron Dupont

[simonr]

I these ones using my flaring tool, but, since the tool goes down just to 3/16 and I need something smaller, I hammered the alumminum tube with the part of the tool that is screwed alone. As usual, I did some buffing with my Dremel and some Blue Magic paste.

Simón P. Rivera Torres

[aarondupont]

Hi all: Last night I finally was able to try Jon C's center punch idea. Works great! Only problem, I need to purchase a new center punch. The one I have I believe I purchased in the mid 70's. It's been ground and reground. It's no longer round. Thanks for all the ideas! Aaron Dupont