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Posted

The wheels were not aggressive enough looking being just plain silver.

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Tamiya Semi Gloss Black was brushed on to accent the centers and the bead of the rim was brushed Tamiya Red. A clear gloss coat was airbrushed over that.

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The tread of the tires were scuffed with some 320 grit dry sandpaper before mounting them on the rims.

The hub caps were decaled with SMS Plain weave C/F #1420 and a custom Scale-Master decal was made for the center logo on each cap.

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Posted

The interior panels were sprayed first with Tamiya Gray, and then Tamiya Smoke.

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SMS Elephant Hide Pattern #1976 was used to create a textured effect similar to the molded pattern on the dash.

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Posted

You guys knew I couldn't go too long without cuttin' some alumnum...

The driveshaft tunnel was painted semi gloss black before the SMS C/F decals were applied.

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A mix of patterns were used to busy it up a bit. SMS #1420 is the predominant pattern, with some #1512, #1520 and SMCF112. After sealing the decals with the clear cote, I airbrushed the edges transparent black to force some shadows.

The shifter assembly was machined from aluminum and the kit’s boot was used, albeit mounted in a different way than called out in the instructions.

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Posted

how many of those kits you got?

:shock:

probably could have bought a real caterham kit for what youve got sunk into them!

:D

but i dont think the real thing would be as detailed as your models are.

Posted

Incredible work!

My neighbor gave me a Unimat Lathe/milling machine. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on beginning machining skills? Are there any good websites, books, or videos? I don't even know where to find aluminum rod to start with. Thanks to anyone that can get me started.

Posted

Dive in, and try to be safe, common sense goes a long way.

The Home Machinists Handbook is a great guide. I know Sherline sells it.

I buy my aluminum from my local metal supply outlet, check your yellow pages. Or surf the 'net. And I always have my eye open for scraps and left overs. What some people throw out from "real" projects can have tons of "model" parts in them.

Posted

The battery was sprayed satin/flat white…

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The "body" was masked off and the top was shot black and the details were picked out by hand… DSC01217.jpg

And it’s a roller! At least for now… I put the wheels on it to protect the bottom of the chassis from getting chipped or scratched during assembly. One extra precaution I'm taking due to the use of decals instead of paint for the majority of the body.

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Posted

i like this model kit, but the one that i saw on ebay, the starting bid was 150$ + shipping, too bad i dont have the money :D BTW great work

Posted

That is a very fair price. This one came directly from Tamiya and cost more than that. But not too much more...

The engine’s oil pump and distributor are installed. I added some boots to the wires with some left over tubing. Another part that will virtually disappear from sight once the car is done. Oh well, like that ever stopped me from detailing a part... The wires are from my stash instead of the kit supplied ones. Still need to finish the oil filter and do some plumbing…

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Posted
the starting bid was 150$ + shipping.

Yeah, that's about what I paid for mine.......but I lucked out and bought mine at our MAMA club meeting.

The guy who sold it to me never started it and threw in all kinds of super detail parts to boot! Now the question is when will I ever build it?? :roll:

Mark, I want my Shrink Ray Machine back ASAP! :D

Posted

The kit alternator…

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The new fan and underdrive pulley I machined for it, (this is the back side).

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I sawed the fan off the kit part with a PE saw and replaced it with my aluminum assembly.

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Posted

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:

(speechless)

Posted

The cam cover is done except for a decal I still have to make for the machined aluminum oil cap. Tamiya Clear Red was sprayed over silver for the color, the Ford emblems were BMF’d and the detail painted with Tamiya Transparent Blue. SMS PE bolt heads from sheet #8117 round out the detailing.

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Posted

The engine assembly is in the frame and the header has been heat stained with Tamiya Clear Blue, Red and Orange. I used the lacquer paints, decanted and airbrushed with a Tamiya/Iwata airbrush.

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Posted

I finally have some of the (nearly) finished body parts to show... Like most models, I prepped the body parts and painted the base color very early in the build. The nose is painted (Tamiya Orange TS-12) and has “lipstick†applied in the form of SMS CF decals. Maybe a dozen individual pieces of decal. I used the Hi Def pattern and clear coated it with two part automotive urethane clear.

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Once the clear was dry, SMS #1012 C/F was applied to the interior of the nose. I started with one large piece and worked my way out with smaller tailor cut pieces. It took about two or three days of putting a few pieces of decal on, saturating them with Mr. Mark Softer and letting them dry in the window. Not a tough job, just one that takes a while, mostly waiting.

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Posted

Back to the frame...

The upper frame and firewall assembly is done. This one assembly usually takes a lot more time than one would think, while it did go quicker than my earlier ones, still this time was no exception, at least it is well engineered by Tamiya. The master cylinder now has its custom made Scale-Master decals on it. The foot/pedal box cover and the heater box were covered with SMS HiDef C/F. I machined a couple fittings for the heater hoses.

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Posted

The steering wheel is done… Another fun to make accent for this project...

The rubberized grip effect was made with Faux Fabrix, applied as the can says. I used three light, but full coats.

The spoke section is aluminum, also from the kit, but decaled with SMS carbon fiber decal #1020.

The center/horn button is an aluminum piece I machined; it was tinted with Tamiya Clear Orange. The bolts on it are photo-etched units from SMS PE sheet #8117. The decal in the very center is from the kit.

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