Any suggestions on how to replicate "weld bead" on

[Len Woodruff]

Any suggestions on how to replicate "weld bead" on a chassis in 1/25?

[Guest zebm1]

I've seen where some folks use tube glue with a toothpick applicator.

zeb

[Harry P.]

A small bead of Elmer's glue.

[Modelmartin]

I dab unthinned primer into the joints with a small brush. I will dab one round spot on the joint with the brush, wait a few seconds for it to skin over and then dab the next circle overlapping the first...etc. It looks quite good.

[John L.]

It is available, believe it or not, in photo-etch. I can't remember the company......but it was shown to me by a hobby shop manager......it is popular with the "armor" builders. I am at work......when I get home I will look at the package I have and post the company that makes it.

John

[Steve H.]

I did this with .020 styrene rod. After chopping the top, I left the cut raw and layed down the rod. I soaked the rod with liquid cement and while it was wet, smooshed it around with a broken tip #11 blade.

[Len Woodruff]

I will try it tonight when I get home.

[Smart-Resins]

If you use ample liqiud cement like tenax around the fresh joint and push together, some of the melted plastic will seep out of the joint to give you a welded appearence.If you get too much, justsand a little off.

[gowjobs]

I did it in 1/8, but you could do the same in 1/25:

I masked both sides of the bead, then layed a thin strip of Squadron green putty down the open strip between them. Once you have it applied, carefully peel the tape away and use a hobby knife blade to layer in the "beads" of the weld, each "on top of" the last.

[John L.]

The photo etch is made by a company in Poland called ABER. The actual package has a part number of R-06, it's called "Narrow Weld Lines". It is actually listed on the package as 1/35 scale........a common scale in military models, but it looks just right for car models, at least to me. I got mine at the "Great Escape" hobby shop in Spartanburg, SC.

John

[RyanSilva]

liquid nails shot through a saringe. most hardware stores have the saringe. fill it up and shoot it in long thin strips, bead it so it looks real. let it dry on a wax paper, pull it off when its dried and glue in place.

[bob paeth]

Quite a few of you fellow members know that I use a wood burning tool for just about everything I do. For real when I "try fit" a part I tack weld it into place not only to check for fit but also to see if it just looks right. If I want to simulate a welded seam I just continue with the same method that I used to start with. My wood burning tool has a tip that looks like the bow of a boat ( the pointy end to you land lubbers ). Using the point only I can make like a pretty good arc weld. If the end result is too rough I take the smooth side of the tip and smooth the weld down a bit. This method is instant dry and tends to give you a strong seam at the same time.

bob

[Jairus]

Dang-it Steve! I love that truck!!!

[Jurm]

I've seen folks use thread dipped in CA glue. It's pretty convincing.

[gowjobs]

You know, it's pretty amazing to see how many different techniques we've developed to simulate the same basic feature. A comparison of the methods might make for an interesting article, huh?

[Len Woodruff]

What I did was use some ultra thin thread soaked in CA. I was about the right size to match the weld bead on the rest of the chassis.

Thanks to everyone who posted.