Len Woodruff Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Any suggestions on how to replicate "weld bead" on a chassis in 1/25? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zebm1 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I've seen where some folks use tube glue with a toothpick applicator. zeb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 A small bead of Elmer's glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I dab unthinned primer into the joints with a small brush. I will dab one round spot on the joint with the brush, wait a few seconds for it to skin over and then dab the next circle overlapping the first...etc. It looks quite good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John L. Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 It is available, believe it or not, in photo-etch. I can't remember the company......but it was shown to me by a hobby shop manager......it is popular with the "armor" builders. I am at work......when I get home I will look at the package I have and post the company that makes it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve H. Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I did this with .020 styrene rod. After chopping the top, I left the cut raw and layed down the rod. I soaked the rod with liquid cement and while it was wet, smooshed it around with a broken tip #11 blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 I will try it tonight when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smart-Resins Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 If you use ample liqiud cement like tenax around the fresh joint and push together, some of the melted plastic will seep out of the joint to give you a welded appearence.If you get too much, justsand a little off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowjobs Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I did it in 1/8, but you could do the same in 1/25: I masked both sides of the bead, then layed a thin strip of Squadron green putty down the open strip between them. Once you have it applied, carefully peel the tape away and use a hobby knife blade to layer in the "beads" of the weld, each "on top of" the last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John L. Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 The photo etch is made by a company in Poland called ABER. The actual package has a part number of R-06, it's called "Narrow Weld Lines". It is actually listed on the package as 1/35 scale........a common scale in military models, but it looks just right for car models, at least to me. I got mine at the "Great Escape" hobby shop in Spartanburg, SC. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanSilva Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 liquid nails shot through a saringe. most hardware stores have the saringe. fill it up and shoot it in long thin strips, bead it so it looks real. let it dry on a wax paper, pull it off when its dried and glue in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob paeth Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Quite a few of you fellow members know that I use a wood burning tool for just about everything I do. For real when I "try fit" a part I tack weld it into place not only to check for fit but also to see if it just looks right. If I want to simulate a welded seam I just continue with the same method that I used to start with. My wood burning tool has a tip that looks like the bow of a boat ( the pointy end to you land lubbers ). Using the point only I can make like a pretty good arc weld. If the end result is too rough I take the smooth side of the tip and smooth the weld down a bit. This method is instant dry and tends to give you a strong seam at the same time. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jairus Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Dang-it Steve! I love that truck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurm Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I've seen folks use thread dipped in CA glue. It's pretty convincing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowjobs Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 You know, it's pretty amazing to see how many different techniques we've developed to simulate the same basic feature. A comparison of the methods might make for an interesting article, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 31, 2007 Author Share Posted March 31, 2007 What I did was use some ultra thin thread soaked in CA. I was about the right size to match the weld bead on the rest of the chassis. Thanks to everyone who posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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