wolvyreen Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Ok, so while building my frst model, I am finding that removing the paint in the areas where the glue must be applied adds risk to the model parts to be damaged. Also, the scraping sometimes doesn't always leave a nice finish on the edges and they can sometimes be seen. How should it be done and how can I prevent the damage like small scratches etc. Do you just apply the paint straight over the paint or do you first remove the paint from those areas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 hi Wolvy welkom to the forum it is best to remove paint (and chrome if your working with plated parts) so that the paint will have something to stick to i always use the side of the knife with very little presure, it makes it a lot more controllable an alternative might be to use a Q-tip dipped in thinner or rubbing alcohol to remove the paint from the parts you want to glue or, of your working with smaller parts or parts that need to be the same colour anyway, just glue it first and then paint it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolvyreen Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 or, of your working with smaller parts or parts that need to be the same colour anyway, just glue it first and then paint it I think that's what I will try and do to avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsimmons Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) Sometimes, you simply can't glue parts together ahead of time. Glue needs bare plastic for a reliable bond. I remove the paint from (or try to not paint) an area that I know to be a glue interface. Any number of techniques work for this. Last night, I had to glue some stanchions onto the deck of the 1/72 Gato submarine kit I'm building for my dad. I had painted the deck, and had to remove that paint from the stanchion holes. I got a toothpick, cut off one end, sanded that end flat, and dipped it in brush cleaner. I then used a small piece of paper towel to remove the remaining thinner. Problem solved. I've also uses a paint brush dipped in thinner, pointy-paddle q-tips dipped in thinner, or an exacto knife. If I remove too much paint, I have a bottle of the right paint and do small touch-ups with a brush. Edited May 20, 2011 by jsimmons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Thought this was going to be a lowrider thread... Yes, I model cars and I scrape..and usually scrape too much :D I still use my # 11 blade or triangular riffler...if a sanding stick will work to keep things square..OK!! you really need a good surface for any bond to hold....so I do scrape!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Myers Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Another solution that has been mentioned here before is pinning. Drilling small corresponding holes and use pins to connect the parts,no scrapping required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Another solution that has been mentioned here before is pinning. Drilling small corresponding holes and use pins to connect the parts,no scrapping required. since you mentioned it, this is a great way to attach those hard to line up parts like exhaust pipes to headers for instance or mirrors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 since you mentioned it, this is a great way to attach those hard to line up parts like exhaust pipes to headers for instance or mirrors So true. A #60-#80 drill bit set, and a pin vise are so valuable in model building! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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