paint stripper question of sorts

[lowriderphil]

While not in reference to stripping a model it is model related. I was recently given a display case that hangs on the wall, but it is poorly painted. It is a shiny paint so I am assuming either enamel or gloss latex. What can I use to strip it? I do not own and electric sander and I am not about to it by hand. I want to strip the paint and either stain the wood or use better paint on it.

[Longbox55]

You should be able to find an appropriate chemical stripper for wood at your local hardware store. Or. if you have one, a heat gun will work, too.

[charlie8575]

To test the paint...

If rubbing alcohol causes discoloration, it's a water-based acrylic paint (i.e., "latex.") If paint thinner removes it, it's oil-based enamel.

You can use 3M Scotch-Brite pads to remove the paint, just be ready to spend some time doing it. There are a few dried latex paint removers on the market, and any decent paint or hardware store will have them on-hand.

When the paint is mostly stripped, I would suggest you pick up a used palm sander. You can probably get on through your local shopper, second-hand-store, Craigslist, and so forth, and it won't be terribly expensive ($10-15.) Once you have your sander, using 180->220->400 grit paper in that order, thoroughly sand the case to remove any leftover paint and make the wood uniformly smooth; once sanded, take a vacuum cleaner and suck all the dust off the case.

If the wood is pine, red oak, or poplar, use a coat of sanding sealer prior to applying any type of finish- paint or stain. Disaster will ensue if you do not, resulting in a splotchy, uneven finish. The sealer may raise the grain slighlty. Lightly touch the case again with 400-grit sandpaper again to knock it back down, vacuum again.

If all the paint is off, you can use a light-color stain. If most of it is off, you might still be able to use a light color, or use something darker (Minwax Jacobean or Puritan Pine are examples,) or you can paint.

Staining- water-based stains aren't that good. Don't use them. Same goes for water-based varnishes. Even with sanding sealer, they raise the grain and create havoc. Stick to a quality oil-based stain and varnish. Minwax is acceptable, I like Varathane or Benjamin Moore's Ben-Wood.

Paint- especially if painting pine, use a qaulity oil or shellac-based primer. You'll need it to block the resins, sap, and other junk that pine has. Oil and shellac-based primers are also easier on the wood, generally speaking, and provide the hard surface you need to paint effectively. If there are knots and you want to use oil primer, prime the knots with Zinnser B-I-N first. DO NOT use the water-based product- again, you will be asking for trouble.

For the paint, you can use oil or water-based finish. I generally prefer Benjamin Moore Impervo, which comes in satin or gloss, and can be mixed in any color you want. Sherwin-Williams also offers a quality oil enamel. For water-based paint, most are good and will perform acceptably.

Charlie Larkin

[lowriderphil]

Wow, this is more involved then I expected, I think I might just hit homie depot this weekend and pic up some new wood. I can reuse the backing board and the shelfs as they weren't painted, I just need a few new boards for the perimeter and a sheet of plexi-glass for the front, thanks for the help

[Harry P.]

Wow, this is more involved then I expected, I think I might just hit homie depot this weekend and pic up some new wood. I can reuse the backing board and the shelfs as they weren't painted, I just need a few new boards for the perimeter and a sheet of plexi-glass for the front, thanks for the help

You're right, in this case it's probably easier to just remake the case from scratch than strip and refinish the existing one.

[lowriderphil]

on a good note, the whole thing only cost 6.95 at the local value village. I saved the backing which is 1/4" sanded plywood, and the shelves, all I need is three 1x4x48s and some plexiglass