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Posted

This is what I would do . Lightly wet sand your color coat overall , meaning the entire finish ! This way , not only is it smooth , your entire color coat is uniform If there isn't any debris in the paint or orange peal involved , start with 4000 and work your way up to 12000 under cold running water .

Wash it off , blow dry it off , shoot your clear on . Once it has flashed out , repeat the aforementioned steps with the clear coat . Polish it out with Novus 2 , wax it with the Final Detail Treatment wax , using small squares of 100 percent cotton T shirt .

This is my way , I'm sure you'll hear from some of the other members on the subject .

Wash

Posted

the paint should loose all it glossyness and be dull but be very careful not to sand to hard or much as you will go through the clear coat and into the colour then you will have to strip and start all over

Posted

Tough question, Liam. I go over everything with 2 passes for each grit, trying to stay off the edges. It's going to depend on the clear, how many coats, how thick the coats were. I usually put down 3 coats of clear, wait a day and then start sanding.

Posted

Depends how bad the burn is. At times I've been able to touch up a burn(s) with a brush. Kandy over a basecoat is rough because you might have touch up both applications. Clear right over a basecoat color isn't too bad. Oh, all I use is House of Colors paint.

Posted

for Metallics, if theres debris in it, i'll sand that spot smooth..shoot some more over that area then clear coat. you don't want to sand or polish metallics or pearls...kills the effect. shoot enough clear so you dont sand through it, then polish.

What i do when i'm sanding color is i'll use tamiya tape to cover the high edges so i don't burn through. I find if you're precise enough with the masking, you dont notice any difference in the final product.

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