Please post pics of models painted with Tamiya TS-55 dark blue

[Monty]

I don't think I've seen this paint mentioned on here before, but it looks like something that may work well on a future project. I'd like to see some pics of model cars you've used this paint on so I can decide if I want to order any for myself.

Thanks!

[Scale-Master]

It is non-metallic, it was made to be a match for Wolf Blue.

This is painted with it:

Edited January 6, 2012 by Scale-Master

[Monty]

Now that is dark blue and should suit my purposes just fine. Mark, thanks for providing the pictures. The outdoor lighting really helps. (That Porsche is flat-out gorgeous, BTW!)

[maltsr]

The emphasis is on dark!

[Guest]

That is a very sharp '40 Ford Paul! The color looks black at first glance. I may have to pick up a can at my next LHS visit.

[Chillyb1]

[Scale-Master]

Monty,

It also shares a similar property as the TS-11 Maroon if you are familiar with that color. It does not cover as well as you might expect for being such a dark color. I shot the Porsche with a base coat of Tamiya AS-8 Navy Blue (which is far lighter than the TS-55). It made it easier to get the paint even with less being applied.

[Monty]

Monty,

It also shares a similar property as the TS-11 Maroon if you are familiar with that color. It does not cover as well as you might expect for being such a dark color. I shot the Porsche with a base coat of Tamiya AS-8 Navy Blue (which is far lighter than the TS-55). It made it easier to get the paint even with less being applied.

I have yet to use any of the Tamiya lacquers, so this seems disconcerting to me. I had read that some of their other colors could be problematic (gold, one of the whites) but I assumed the darker colors would be fine. This shade of blue and the maroon you mentioned were targeted for upcoming projects because I hadn't found an equivalent shade in an enamel, which I prefer. Thanks for the warning. I'll keep your example in mind and find appropriate base colors to shoot over.

[Scale-Master]

Don't let my comments dissuade you from using those colors. They do work great, but they just require a little more patience and to be built up in several thin light coats. They do cover fully when applied in light coats, but if you are not expecting the way they go on, you might be inclined to put too much on during the early coats.

The Maroon is a great color too and can be slightly tinted by the base undercoat color. Both brown and red will work as undercoats depending on the desired tone.

[Monty]

Don't let my comments dissuade you from using those colors. They do work great, but they just require a little more patience and to be built up in several thin light coats. They do cover fully when applied in light coats, but if you are not expecting the way they go on, you might be inclined to put too much on during the early coats.

The Maroon is a great color too and can be slightly tinted by the base undercoat color. Both brown and red will work as undercoats depending on the desired tone.

Are you decanting these for airbrush use? If so, does the paint require anything other than allowing it to settle a bit before shooting, such as a few drops of lacquer thinner? (something I've read)

And you're right - the maroon is a magnificent color.

Thanks to everyone who contributed pics of models painted in this shade.

[Scale-Master]

I decant some to airbrush the A-Pillars, fender lips and other small areas that I don't want to get too heavy of a blast on, but I also shoot it straight from the can for the main coverage.

It can be airbrushed without additional thinning, but you may want to add some lacquer thinner to fine tune the ratio as it does evapoarate in the open cup.

[Chillyb1]

Are you decanting these for airbrush use? If so, does the paint require anything other than allowing it to settle a bit before shooting, such as a few drops of lacquer thinner? (something I've read)

I shoot them as-is after settling. If I have paint left over and I don't use it for a while, then I add a little lacquer thinner and that seems to work fine.

And you're right - the maroon is a magnificent color.

I wanted to chime in on this, too. The most notable feature of the paints to which Scale-Master refers is that they are almost impossibly glossy right out of the can. I absolutely love the maroon. These are without any clear coat:

[Monty]

I wanted to chime in on this, too. The most notable feature of the paints to which Scale-Master refers is that they are almost impossibly glossy right out of the can.

I realize we have a lot of talented builders on this forum, but I couldn't help noticing that all the pics submitted for this thread featured beautiful paint jobs - the kind most modelers aspire to. The fact that they don't require a clear coat to look good is just one more reason for me to step up and try these paints.

Curtis, thanks for the examples done in maroon.

[maltsr]

Monty, I almost exclusively use Tamiya paints straight from the can. With a little practice, sublime paintjobs are possible.

See this topic which was recently posted on the forum http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50709&hl=&fromsearch=1

It includes a link to great guide on how to apply Tamiya paint.

[Harry P.]

So... is this a lacquer paint?

[Scale-Master]

Yes, it is an acrylic lacquer.

[SuperStockAndy]

So... is this a lacquer paint?

Sounds like it.

[Harry P.]

I've never tried it, but if you guys are getting results like that, I think I just might have to try it.

[Scale-Master]

I've never tried it, but if you guys are getting results like that, I think I just might have to try it.

Great time to decide to start, seeing as it is becoming more and more difficult to find some colors. If you do go for it, be sure to get two cans the same color for most 1/24th scale car subjects. You may not need the second, but it is nice to have handy when you do...

[Monty]

OK, so let's take this one step further with a real world example. I'm going to be building the Revell '72 442 convertible as a surprise for a friend who owned one back in the early '80s.

From seeing other people's builds on various model sites, it would appear that TS-54 is going to be a fairly close match for Olds Viking Blue, but IIRC, Tamiya lacquers require an extended gas-out period before recoating or clear coating. How long should I wait to apply the decal stripes and clear coat? (I've heard you can do the clear coat immediately after the paint so they gas out together, but that won't be happening)

[Scale-Master]

As long as you keep applying the paint and it does not fully dry, you can go from color coats to clear coats. It can be dust safe and dry enough to carefully handle lightly, but since the solvents are still active, they will receive fresh paint and meld the coats together and outgas together. The time varies upon heat, thickness of application and other variables. I usually wait about 15 minutes and as much as 30 minutes between coats. But I have spaced it out to a full hour with no problems.

I have shot the all the color and all the clear throughout one day, and then let it sit for a week or two.

Or you can get the color done and wait a few days, )maybe a week or longer depending...), then go at it with the clear. The clear has always taken longer to fully cure than the colors in my experience.

Problems can arise if the base coat is partially cured when you apply the clear. The fresh solvents can attack the earlier paint. If it had cured fully, it can handle the fresh application of clear, if the older paint is still new or relatively fresh, it accepts the clear as just more paint.

If you want to clear over the decals, I'd suggest waiting at least a week for the color to dry, then decal. And wait at least 24 hours for the decals to dry before clearing. But be aware TS-13 clear is very hot when it comes to decals.

Edited January 10, 2012 by Scale-Master