How do I paint cars without an airbrush?

[Mick5s]

If I just use bottles of Tamiya Acrylic with some sable brushes, will you be able to see the brush strokes on the body? How can I paint everything without an airbrush or spending tons on spray paints.

Thanks

[JamesW]

No matter what brushes you use you'll see the brush strokes. Depending on the colors you want to use you can get the Colorplace spray paint at Walmart for $1-$2 a can and can get quite a few cars out of it. DupliColor from any auto parts store runs $6-$7 a can too. Just remember to NEVER spray laquer over enamel.

Edited April 1, 2012 by JamesW

[The Creative Explorer]

No matter what brushes you use you'll see the brush strokes.

Not always, I've seen people make a flawless paintjob with brushes, I can't do it and I rather have the airbrush.

@Noah; Go for a airbrush. Even with the smallest budget, you can airbrush. A starter airbrush goes for 10 bucks, and paint is readibly available for the airbrush. The results are way better and easier than a brush and rattle can! (even though people using a rattle can will disagree, it is visible).

Plus overall a airbrush is after the first investment of the material a very cheap way to paint a model.

[High octane]

Painting bodies by brush went out in the 60's with the introduction of spray cans buy Testor's, Pactra, and also AMT. While I have two air-brushes and a compressor that I never use, I do get good results with spray cans and there's quite a bit of choices today as far a color goes.

[Mick5s]

OK, I was ambivilant about an airbrush because I did not want to spend alot of money. I have looked around and is it even possible to get everything you need to airbush under like $60?

I researched on hooking one up to an ordinary garage air compressor, and it seems that is doable.

Harbor Freight makes some good, inexpansive stuff, and I found these two airbrushes:

http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html

the quick change seems like it would be very nice.

Would anyone reccommend another one? What exactly do I need?

[The Creative Explorer]

For a starter I would recommend a starter airbrush, single action. They cost around 10 bucks, add a aircan for about 10 bucks, some paint for 2-3 dollars and some primer for 2-3 dollars and you can start learn to airbrush.

When you are getting confident and saved some money, go for a decent brand double-action (gravity-feed) airbrush with a compressor. Should cost you less than 200 to start. There are some generic airbrushes and they give mixed results plus expensive, hard to get replacement parts.

[Mick5s]

But what can I do about a compressor? Should I buy one with a starter airbrush?

Do you have any links to a good starter airbrush kit?

Thanks

[Longbox55]

^{If you don't have a compressor, this one might be the better choice}

^{http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/oilless-compressors/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html}

^{I have several of this particlur airbrush from Harbor Freight, they work very well. I get good finishes out of them, though they do tend to give grainy finish when using Duplicolor clear. Otherwise, they do great with hobby paints. The only real gripe i have is that they only come with one tip size. Partswise, they're virtually identical in construction to the Badger airbrushes, I beleive even some parts might swap (haven't tried it yet). According to a freind of mine, the compressor in the kit is identical to the Iwata that sells for 3 times as much, and doesn't come with the airbrush.}

[Mick5s]

The only thing about that is what do you do when you have more colors? Like for one model I would need about 6 or so colors. Do you have to buy more paint bottles?

What about cleaning?

Maybe that compressor and this airbrush would be best. I don't really know.

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html

[Longbox55]

I suppose it would depend on how you're planning to do the paint job. If it's a situation of going directly from one color to the next, extra jars would be the way to go (jars are cheap), giving the airbrush a good flushing between colors.

Cleaning isn't really to complicated. Simply fill a jar with the appropriate solvent for the paint you're using (I use laquer thinner), hook it up, then spray until it comes out clear. Once done with painting, tearing down the airbrush to thoroughly clean it inside is a good idea, you'll want to get an airbrush/spray gun cleaning kit to do this. The kit will have the small rifle brushes to get into the small orfices of the tips. Again, relatively cheap and reusable.

Something you might check out is Dr Crankys Youtube vids. he's got some very informational vids up showing how to use an aribrush and maintain it.

[Mike Kucaba]

That compressor doesn't look like my Iwata whisper jet and I doubt that it is identical. The Iwata is an oil filled type of pump, and the HF one is oiless. I also don't see anything about the instant on feature the Iwata has when you depress the button to start spraying. I have nothing against looking for inexpensive solutions to acquiring equipment for the shop,but let's compare apples to apples.

[The Creative Explorer]

Noah, with airbrushing, the key is not to go too fast, take a step at a time. When you take your time, your results will be a lot better in the end.

Start with something like this:

This is the European version, but I know Testors and Revell has something similar over there, should cost around 15 dollars. Instead of a compressor, go for a pressure-can, which will last a couple of cars and is a cheap alternative to a compressor.

When going for a compressor, never buy a membrane compressor, but a piston-compressor with tank! Even though the last can be expensive for a good one, they last a life-time.

Again: don't go the short way and go cheap. I have used several kinds, and some of them where the knock-offs, but there is such a world of difference between the knockoffs and the real deal, that it is worth a couple of dollars more. Again; the good ones last a life-time and it is a long-term investment.

about the colors, take it slow here as well, go for one color and start practising with the body. Just brush the different engine and interior parts, because they are smaller, it is easier to get away with that.

[JunkPile]

Although I have never seen one, I have heard of really well done smooth and shiny paint jobs with a brush. Talk about "old school" tecniques. Properly thinned slow drying enamel may be the key. Sanding and polishing may be another key. I might have to try this.

[camaroman]

But what can I do about a compressor? Should I buy one with a starter airbrush?

Do you have any links to a good starter airbrush kit?

Thanks

Mick,

I use a small inflation- type Campbell Hausfield

http://www.allaircompressors.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Campbell-Hausfeld-Tank-Mount-2Gal-Air-Compressor-300x300.jpg

that has a 2 Gallon Tank.

I set mine up with a Quik connect chuck so that I could add a second more accurate pressure regulator and water trap unit when painting. I used to use this setup with a automotive type air tank that I would fill at the gas station near my house until I got this compressor.

[Mike Kucaba]

The Iwata I mentioned doesn't have a tank. If you have a compressor with out a tank,you can eliminate the pulses between cycles by adding on a filter jar and a pressure regulator. That being said,some airbrushes use more air volume than others. My Paasche VL uses much more air volume than others that I have and I usually use this with an oiless tank type compressor.

[Mick5s]

Alright, thanks to everyone for your insight.

I have decided to go with a single action starter airbrush for "beginners", similar to the one that Erik recommended. It is from Micro Mark so I have confidence that it will be a good deal for my money at $19.99.

As for the compressor, I have a rather large, I think 120psi air compressor in my garage. I am going to use that one, and buy this to adapt it for an airbrush:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360446270641?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It should work, because it is a rather standard part. I also have a 1/4" hose adapter to adapt the airbrush hose to the compressor.

And that should be it! As Micro Mark says, even the most inexpensive airbrush will deliver a better paintjob than a rattle can.

Anything I am missing? Does it all check out?

Also while browsing through LOADS of Tamiya's Acrylics online, I have built up an extensive list of paints to get. There are just so many I want them all!

[sportandmiah]

Harbor Freight has a double action airbush and compressor combo on sale right now for 69.00..that is a great deal.

[Mick5s]

Can you send me a link? That actually sounds great

[Mick5s]

I cant seem to find the airbrush & compressor deal for $69. I onle see it for around $80! A link would help.

But until then, I have narrowed it down to either of these:

Micro Mark Single Action:

http://www.micromark.com/beginners-ez-starter-airbrush-set,10234.html

Harbor Fright Double Action:

http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

Thoughts?

[Mike Kucaba]

I'd go with the double action and here's why. The little screw looking gizzy in front of the trigger sets the amount of paint(needle retraction) of the brush.All you have to do is screw that in to make a positive set for the amount of paint you want the needle to allow in and just push down on the button which lets in the air. You can make it even more stable by wrapping a ruuber band behind the trigger as a back-up. When you get comfortable with airbrushing,you can back-off the screw,and remove the rubber band and use the double action.

[The Creative Explorer]

Mike, I always will advise a double-action airbrush, with one exception: beginners. A double-action is difficult to work with if you don't know the basics. Even though it would cost a few more bucks in the beginning, it is a better road to go.

Think about feeding air, paint, cleaning etc... The chance of succes is in the beginning quite small and makes it demotivating to continue.

@Noah; I would go for the singleaction to start with, after you covered the basics go for a double action. it will offer you a smoother learning curve.

[Mick5s]

That is true, I am a first-timer

Well, after those two opposite suggestions, I quite frankly don't have a clear path. Erik, I do agree with you though, and I just want to learn the tricks of the trade.

ALSO, I remembered I have a 50 or 70 gallon compressed air tank I used to use with an industrial truck horn on my "08 Mini Cooper. That was a riot.

I could just fill that up with air from my garage compressor and then use that with a regulator/filter! I think thats' a perfect plan.

So now, with that Micro Mark airbrush and the tank, everything checks out before I make a purchase?

[Romell R]

I disagree whole heartly with stating with a single action airbrush. I started with a double action and with just a couple paractise runs on a spare body I was able to turn out fairly decent paint jobs which only got better over time. I believe if you go stright to a double action you cut out having to re-learn the same tool twice. Why teach youself something only to have to teach yourself a differant way later , when all this time can be spent perfecting the goal you set out for in the first place. So I say get yourself that double action and get good with it!

[Mike Kucaba]

I'll put it like this: If you can swim in shallow water there is no reason that you can't swin in deep water. All the tips I mentioned takes a considerable amount of the complexity of using a double action AB. It's a moot point because most times after you've bought your first AB you won't stop there.

[Mick5s]

Alright then, well my decision is now up in the air again.

Mike and Romell, how would you say that double action is? Does it seem fine to start with?

I really have no idea about airbrushes so whatever you guys on here say pretty much goes!