Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Figure out the OD of the real car's cage tubing, and shop for appropriately-sized aluminum tubing; I'd also get aluminum rod that fits inside the tubing so you can bend it without kinks.

The other alternative is pliable aluminum rod called 'armature wire,' which is carried by any well-stocked craft or art supply store(it's intended for sculpting). It's light, bends easily by hand, and very workable.

Posted

I wouldn't recommend aluminum tubing or solder. Impossible to glue it together and get it to hold. Aluminum tubing will also kink badly if bent too much. Best to go to a hobby shop and get yourself some styrene rod (not tube) to build your roll bars with. It bends easily and won't kink. You can glue it together with the glue of your choice, but I use Tenax7 and super glue. You'll probably want .080 (2 inches in scale) or .100 (2.5 inches in scale) for your project. It just depends on what size it is on your real car. I use the .060 and .080 styrene rod a lot to build headers with. It works great.

Posted

With aluminum rod inside it, tubing will not kink unless you bend it wel beyond 90 degrees....and the average roll cage doesn't have bends that extreme. For a good fit, I use my Dremel and round files to 'fishmouth' cut the ends like real race car fabricators do. I also use epoxy for the glue joints, applied sparingly with a small disposable brush. Rubbing alcohol helps clean up any goofs while the epoxy is still wet, and working over wax paper keeps you from gluing your cage to your bench(epoxy will not stick to wax paper).

Heat shrink tubing, slipped over and shrunk prior to assembly makes good padding as well.

Posted

Figure out the OD of the real car's cage tubing, and shop for appropriately-sized aluminum tubing; I'd also get aluminum rod that fits inside the tubing so you can bend it without kinks.

The other alternative is pliable aluminum rod called 'armature wire,' which is carried by any well-stocked craft or art supply store(it's intended for sculpting). It's light, bends easily by hand, and very workable.

Or just go with rod in the first place and forget the tubing. Aluminum rod bends very easily, you can bend it using just your fingers, around an appropriately sized round mandrel of some sort. "Armature wire," while soft and pliable, usually comes in a roll. Trying to form perfectly straight lengths is a pain. Better to start with straight aluminum rod, like that sold by K&S, IMO.

Posted

"Armature wire," while soft and pliable, usually comes in a roll. Trying to form perfectly straight lengths is a pain. Better to start with straight aluminum rod, like that sold by K&S, IMO.

The last couple of times I bought armature wire at Michaels, they had the rolls and clear tubes containing straight lengths; I opted for the straight stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...