m408 Posted July 30, 2007 Posted July 30, 2007 I know, I'm getting to be a pain with all of my questions, but just trying to learn from the best. Just finished a paint job. Washed the body, slightly roughed it up and applied three coats of primer with a 24 hour wait before wet sanding after each coat. Applied three coats of color. Again with a 24 hour rest period between wet sanding the first two coats. Finished with a coat of clear right after the last coat of color. It came out great. Smooth as my old bald head and shinny as a new nickle. Might add a coat of McGuires car polish. Why would I need to take the time and effort to use a polishing kit? Am I missing something here?
djway3474 Posted July 30, 2007 Posted July 30, 2007 I know, I'm getting to be a pain with all of my questions, but just trying to learn from the best. Just finished a paint job. Washed the body, slightly roughed it up and applied three coats of primer with a 24 hour wait before wet sanding after each coat. Applied three coats of color. Again with a 24 hour rest period between wet sanding the first two coats. Finished with a coat of clear right after the last coat of color. It came out great. Smooth as my old bald head and shinny as a new nickle. Might add a coat of McGuires car polish. Why would I need to take the time and effort to use a polishing kit? Am I missing something here? In my opinion polishing can never match a good gloss coat. But that being said if the gloss is not perfectly smooth and has particulates however small you would then need to polish. I know some guys here in So Cal that won many paint awards that alway went for the perfect wet gloss coat. If your happy with the finish leave it.
MrObsessive Posted July 30, 2007 Posted July 30, 2007 Milt, you know the old saying........."if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" As was mentioned, if you're happy with the result, don't bother it. Generally I don't clearcoat solid colors as there's enough inherent gloss in the pigments to rub out and polish to a nice shine. However, metallics I always clearcoat as polishing disturbs the metallic flakes which can lead to a mottled, splotchy appearance. This '58 Chevy I did for instance, has no clearcoat as it's a solid color................but was rubbed out with a polishing kit and waxed with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax. What did you paint and with which color and brand BTW?
MonoPed Posted July 30, 2007 Posted July 30, 2007 Like Bill said, if you're happy with it as-is, don't worry about it. Some cars get polished, some get cleared, some get cleared an polished, but occasionally, I get lucky and put down a nice looking paintjob right from the can. This '65 Corvette is Tamiya Italian Red, no clear, rubbed with Novus plastic polish #2: This Deuce is PPG Ford Sonic Blue Pearl with PPG clear, rubbed with Novus #2: And this old Woody is Tamiya TS-14 Black, right from the can, no rubbing, no clear: I'm happy with how each of them turned out, but they all took different approaches to to get there.
m408 Posted July 30, 2007 Author Posted July 30, 2007 Milt, you know the old saying........."if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" As was mentioned, if you're happy with the result, don't bother it. Generally I don't clearcoat solid colors as there's enough inherent gloss in the pigments to rub out and polish to a nice shine. However, metallics I always clearcoat as polishing disturbs the metallic flakes which can lead to a mottled, splotchy appearance. This '58 Chevy I did for instance, has no clearcoat as it's a solid color................but was rubbed out with a polishing kit and waxed with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax. What did you paint and with which color and brand BTW? Dupli-color light blue metalic over Dupli-color primer. Also used Dupli-color clear. I can see where polishing a solid color would get a good result, much as on a 1:1.
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