Metalizer - buffing wheels

[irishmike]

I recently got back into modeling and am working on a kit where I'm going to use Model Master Metalizer (buffing) on the wheels. Does anyone have tips or advice on the best way to buff to get the best effect? Thanks, Mike

[Guest G Holding]

Q Tip...soft cloth

[Ace-Garageguy]

First off, I'd forget buffing wheels. Even at the lowest speed, a variable speed Dremel will destroy your finish. Hand buffing with cotton fleece (inside of a sweatshirt) is what I've found works best.

A couple of other suggestions:

1) If you want it to look like a polished surface (ie. wheel RIMS) you need to shoot it slick with NO orange peel. That means shooting it as wet as you can wothout running. Shooting it over a similar color base is good too. 3 coats minimum is my rule (you'll go through the high spots and edges otherwise). Let it dry THOROUGHLY, overnite is good. Then you can vigorously hand polish to a high luster.

2) If you want the result to look like an as-cast finish (like wheel CENTERS on some vintage mags, blowers, etc.) shoot the metalizer drier to get an orange peel effect. You can either leave it rough-cast, or lightly polish it for a different effect.

The intake manifold in this photo was done using the method 1 above. In person, it's pretty convincing polished aluminum. The clutch housing, headers and injector body were done using variations of 2. You can see the slightly grainy surface on the clutch housing, implying a newly-cast but not polished alloy part.

Edited September 11, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy