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Posted (edited)

This is one of the easiest coversions I've done in a a long time, even if you include creating the master. The 1:1 Car is not very different from the normal Ford GT, but the chages dramaticly alter the car's personality. Here are a few of the images and videos that inspired this build and the Resin Transkit;

Ford GTX1 On Top Gear

Ford GTX1Overview by the guy who builds them

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Here's my model in progress. The SEMA Car is easy to reproduce, as the color is standard Ford Grabber Orange. The engine mods are all internal so there is nothing that needs to be done to replicate this in scale. To create the master I carefully removed the roof leaving the sides and windshield frame standing. I took carefull measurements and scratchbuildt the new rear deck. I then Sent the master off to Don @ Reliable resin to have it cast. Don took it to the finish line, and had the resin copy back to me in three weeks. (that's faster than I've gotten some stuff that molds aready exist for. I think part of the speed had something to do with the fact that Don is as excited about this project as I am.) I soaked the body for a few hours in Westley's tire bleach and rinsed it completely. On this body in particular I suggest using a tothbrush during the rince as there are a lot of nooks and crannies for the bleach to hide. if you brush the body under warm (not hot) water until the brush stops making foam on the body it is clean.

I have some color on it, and am letting it cure a day or so before I polish it out. I've designed some decals in photoshop, and will be appliing them before I clear the body.

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I lowered the suspension 3mm in the front and 1mm in the rear. I detail painted the wheel backing plates to bring out the disk brake details. I painted the calipers to match the body color just like they did on the example below;

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If you chose to detail out the backing plates as I have, be sure to glue the wheels to the suspension, other wise your calipers wil be at odd angles on the disks depending on how the wheels are positioned when it gets set down. Also be sure at that point to position the calipers to there correct angle before the glue dries.

I'll have more progress on this as it goes. Because this is an open car I'm going further than I normally would on detailing out the interior. Luckily the base kit's interior is awesome to begin with, so taking it to the next level is even easier. Interior details will inclue photo realistic gauges, and AC vents with individual vent fins. (yes I will show you guys how to do that. It's quite easy once you know how.)

Edited by Darin Bastedo
Posted

Here is one of three scratchbuilt dash vents I made. I used aluminium tubing and evergreen rod stock. I chose Tubing that was the same size as the vent hole after I drilled out the molded in detail. I selected Evergreen rod stock that fi snugly into the tubing. To make the vanes in the vent I;

1. Made a cut across the end of the plastic rod.

2. Used a file to file down the top and the bottom to meet the edges of the cut.

3 inserted the reshaped rod into the tubing.

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What do you guys think?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Here is one of three scratchbuilt dash vents I made. I used aluminium tubing and evergreen rod stock. I chose Tubing that was the same size as the vent hole after I drilled out the molded in detail. I selected Evergreen rod stock that fi snugly into the tubing. To make the vanes in the vent I;

1. Made a cut across the end of the plastic rod.

2. Used a file to file down the top and the bottom to meet the edges of the cut.

3 inserted the reshaped rod into the tubing.

04-vi.jpg

What do you guys think?

Very clever. I love simple yet effective scratchbuilding ideas like that.

Posted
Very clever. I love simple yet effective scratchbuilding ideas like that.

Thanks Harry. These are the parts of a build I like the most. the small barely noticable details that make the build "pop".

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