Thinning your paint...

[CStewTAMU]

I have the testor's airbrush, the cheap kind that you can get at walmart. Do you really need to thin the paint before spraying? I have just done some samples on a piece of plastic...the paint seems to come out fine just right out of the jar without thinning-even a nice mist. What does thinning the paint do for the paint job anyway? I am a complete novice and am clueless on stuff like this.

Edited August 28, 2007 by CStewTAMU

[patrol52]

The thickness of your paint is dependent on what you are doing with it. A thick paint will usually leave an "orange peel" or rough-ness to the surface; however, if the paint is too thin, it will cover poorly and usually run, causing a big mess.

Orange peel=

run=

I have some testors acrylic from walmart most likely, that is pre-thinned, and ready to spray (came in a set like these). Usually, a brush-on paint, like the individual bottles they sell, are thicker than something you want to spray.

I usually use spray paint cans for model cars, but on real cars, the general rule that gets you in the ballpark is: if you dip a stir stick or other stirring device, the paint should run off fairly quickly, in a stream, then drip. If it runs slowly or drips, then it should probably be thinned a little, if it only drips it may be too thin, and require more paint (or just painting light coats to avoid runs)

Even more important than the paint, is the technique you use while painting. Get a method set to mix the paint consistently, then practice painting! As you paint, adjust the spray gun to spray how it feels comfortable (it should put paint down at a comfortable rate--you don't want to have to go super slow, or super fast, just to keep up with the gun. Make it work for you). Try laying down "heavy" coats, and "light" coats of paint, just so you know what happens, and can compensate for each scenario.

Some tips:

1) lacquer paint over enamel is a no-no, unless you like wrinkle paint

2) follow directions for the paint if given (that re-coat within 3hrs, or wait 7 days is important!)

3) generally each coat of paint should be given some time to dry (depends on paint, but usually no more than an hour), before another coat is applied (this helps paint dry more consistently, and avoid runs)

4) clear coat is your friend (do a color coat, just for color, then cover with clear for a shine [or a dull coat if desired])

5) practice on anything that replicates the surface you plan on painting. Soda cans are a good substitute for your model car, so sand, prime, and paint them until you get it right. this can also be a good way to test your color, as you can see how it really looks.

6) if the paint does go bad (and it happens to almost everyone), let it dry, sand it down, and try again.

[Jairus]

Wes, Excellent answer! I couldn't have responded better.

On another note, both of you guys need to post your full names please. Wes, just need your last name but CStew we need you to read the forum rules and please comply. Resistance is futile!

[Brendan]

cstewTAMU

There is a good manual/book done by Pat Covert called the The Modeler's Guide to Scale Automotive Finishes. He shows techniques on how to prep and paint cars. I'd definitely recommend this manual if you're getting into car models. It is published by Kalmbach Books (ISBN# 0-89024-265-8). It sells for under $20. The local book store or hobby shop should be able to order it. The Publishing Company also has a couple of other books available as well.

Hope this helps.

Brendan