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Posted

Don't jump on PE parts. They are costly and sometimes hard to work with. I agree, should really focus on the detailing aspect. PE parts are pointless without precision details.

Posted

photo etch parts are comparable to doing your own dental work. on yourself.

although i do have better luck than using bare metal foil. here's a quickie how it's done. http://modeltech.tripod.com/etchingarticle.htm

my main obstruction is that quite often the manufacturer of the photo etch doesn't include instructions, so the builder really has to think backwards of how the intended part would be broken down into components, and then try to find said component on the etch fret.

remember the 3 level chess set in star trek episodes? that's easy compared to photo etch assembly.

Posted

I'm a beginner also well not really I've been in the model building game for years but just started getting serious about it the past couple. I agree whole heartedly with the others. Photoetched parts are useless unless you have the detail skills to back them up. I got some beautiful photoetched paets for a buick grand national from another user but I have put off building it. Because with my skills those parts would stick out like a sore thumb.

Posted

Photo etch,,, dont drop there tiny micro parts,,they are real hard to find,, But they add great detail,,

Posted

Take a look at the lady's thread on the workbench , she has skills . Aside from that , the only way you develop skills is to tackle the project at hand and be patient with it !

Anne , you can handle photoetch , trust me on this !

Posted

I don't think PE battery terminals look very realistic - they are generally too flat. You should be able to make simple ones out of styrene that look better.

Some details - like bolt or screw details, are grey for PE.

Posted

If you're good you can make terminals out of appropriate size solder wire. I flattened the very ends slightly of the solder and then drilled a hole just larger enough for the battery post to go through. The cable end had another tiny hole drilled in and then epoxied the wire into it.

Here's a pic showing this...............

PC090003-vi.jpg

This battery was from my stillborn '64 GTO WIP........the cable ends could stand to be a scooch shorter, but you get the idea. ;)

Posted

Take a look at the lady's thread on the workbench , she has skills . Aside from that , the only way you develop skills is to tackle the project at hand and be patient with it !

Anne , you can handle photoetch , trust me on this !

I looked for the thread, all I found was a 55 Chevy, could not tell enough from that. However it is true that doing something like PE can make you better at it, and you should'nt be afraid to try. Anne could start off with a photoetched fan blade or a distributor kit. Anne could you post a picture of some of the Tools you have for doing photoetched.

Posted

Seat belt buckles may be a fun place to start. Requires removal of part from the sprue and bending into proper shape. Lots of bang for the buck. And you get to make the belts too! :)

Posted

If you're good you can make terminals out of appropriate size solder wire. I flattened the very ends slightly of the solder and then drilled a hole just larger enough for the battery post to go through. The cable end had another tiny hole drilled in and then epoxied the wire into it.

Here's a pic showing this...............

PC090003-vi.jpg

This battery was from my stillborn '64 GTO WIP........the cable ends could stand to be a scooch shorter, but you get the idea. ;)

Do you remember what size solder you used. Thats a great idea. I have been looking for a better way to make ends than using photoetch.
Posted

Fellas, the solder I used was plain 'ol Radio Shack brand with a .062" thickness. Now that pic was taken 8-9 years ago when I was building the GTO, and some slightly smaller diameter solder might be available for use in this. The solder had a flux core which makes drilling the hole for your cable that much easier. Simply attach everything with some 5 min epoxy, and you should be good to go.

Since solder is very soft, you might want to give the terminals a coat of Elmer's glue to smooth out the "dings" from handling. When dry, simply paint the terminals silver to give an even appearance.

Posted

Fellas, the solder I used was plain 'ol Radio Shack brand with a .062" thickness. Now that pic was taken 8-9 years ago when I was building the GTO, and some slightly smaller diameter solder might be available for use in this. The solder had a flux core which makes drilling the hole for your cable that much easier. Simply attach everything with some 5 min epoxy, and you should be good to go.

Since solder is very soft, you might want to give the terminals a coat of Elmer's glue to smooth out the "dings" from handling. When dry, simply paint the terminals silver to give an even appearance.

Thank you for the great tip! B)

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