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Posted

so, i made a really low dollar chassis jig. went to home depot and got a piece of mdf. cut it down and made my chassis lines. made some suspension mounting fixtures with some aluminum angle. done. now i can start making all of the tubing fit.

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Posted

Dave... this build has me blown away. That master cylinder looks great. The break pedal is awesome. And I love the home maid jig you made. that is some awesome work to keep everything straight. I am going to have to borrow that idea on how you did your jig. You have me wanting to see more of this build. Looking forward to more.

Posted

thanks guys. it is a lot of effort to keep this thing straight and square.......actually, more like a pain in the butt. LOL!

Hehehe, hey Dave, you know, if you're tired of messing with this thing, you know where to sent it, right? ;)

Must excuse myself if anyone gets some drool and dribble splashed their way......my keyboard is a mess. :oGORGEOUS work Dave. B)B)

Oh, and I really must get myself some of those kool tools you showed....I have benders, the not very successful spring style...they are hopeless. :(

Looking forward to the next update mate, I just can't get enough of this ride. :)

Cheers

Greg

Posted (edited)

hey greg, good to hear from you. how are things in the great down under?

here is a part i consider an important detail. most of you don't or won't care and that's fine but, i like to set up the 4 link and rear as close to true as possible. i use an alignment bar (tube in this case) to get the pinion center line in line with the motor and trans. at this point i can make the 4link bars since there centers are now set.

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special note to mike here. you'll see why i said you should move your driveshaft loop higher in the chassis from this shot.

Edited by comp1839
Posted

thanks guys!!! i'll be doing some work on the four link bars tonight. have to get to a spot where i can hold up a bit. just picked the block (for the '37) so it's time to start. re-assembling the real thing.

Posted

This is so amazing. I can't even think of any words to describe it. Fantastic work. (as if you haven't heard it a million times already) lol. Out of curiosity, and forgive me if you already have, but I'd really like to see an overall pic of say the body next to something well known like a dollar bill, just to get an idea of how big this monster actually is. Don't want to trouble you for it or get you sidetracked, but I just can't picture the size of these larger scale cars.

Anyway, stellar build so far. I'll be watching for sure!

Posted

Hey Dave, I'm doing pretty good, thanks mate. :) Be even better once I get my modelling seat warmed up again. :D

ALL this work you are doing for yourself, as well as for us guys, is driving me closer and closer to the bench, thank you.

And good luck with the 1:1 build man, can not wait to see that thing fire up. B)

Posted (edited)

thanks guys!!! much appreciated. clint, sorry, i didn't get a shot of the body next to a dollar for you but, how about i just give you the length? the total length on the body is about 25.5". hope that works for ya. greg you need to get back to the bench asap. i can hear it calling you all the way over here.hehe.

o.k. so, i was out n the shop making stuff so i made up a fixture to hold the shocks at exactly the right length. it's piece of aluminum with four .062" pins on 2.200" centers and the center hogged out so the shocks will stay at that length while the j.b. weld dries. the rod ends are r.b.motion units, of course.

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also made the tube ends for the lower four link bars. the lower bars will be 3/16" aluminum tube while the uppers will be 5/32". yes that requires the ends to be different between the 2 sets of bars.

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also working on some tire detail. the wear indicators will be drilled in to the rubber replicating the real deal.

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Edited by comp1839
Posted

No problem Dave. The measurements will definitely suffice. As well as the picture of that massive hunk of a tire in your hand lol! Fantastic work!

Posted

made some mods to the rear end fixtures so i could see the scale to measure the link lengths. milled some windows in the sides. then we got on with making the lower links.

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next, back to shop to make the upper link tube ends.

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then fabbed the upper links.

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all the time the line up bar is in place making sure the rear geometry is held in place.

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