Need to know about various tubing HELP!

[kossuth]

Hello all,

First post on here. I'm registered over at scalesprints.com and I've been working on a sprint car model. Long story short I'm getting there, but I've run into a snag. The car I'm building the model after isn't at all similar to the kit. So after messing around with the kit chassis I've decided that my best bet might be to build one from scratch. So I've figured out my tubing sizes and such and I'm about to pull the trigger on the parts I need but one big question is popping up in my head. "Will this joint hold"?

I am planning to use TB-1 and TB-2 tubing with wire inside from Plaststruct to build the lower base tube of the chassis and the upper tubes and down bars. Both sets of bars would come off a front and rear torsion bar mount on the chassis that is either a solid rod of styrene or butyrate.

My concern is will I have an adhesion problem on those torsion bar mounts being there is wire in the middle the down bars and that lower frame bar? At the end of it all the weight of the model will hang from these two sets of bars (front and rear). Just looking for some help and guidance. This is the first time I have built a chassis from scratch so I would like to set myself up for success from the get go. Thanks.

Jason

[Ace-Garageguy]

Man, that's a gorgeous frame. I've had adhesion problems with butyrate tube and rod, and I've never actually tried to build anything out of the wire-core variant.

However, I DO build lots of things from lots of materials, and my first thought would be to cut your down-bars a little long so you can strip back the butyrate coating enough to achieve a 'pin' on the end, and drill your torsion-bar cross-tubes to accept the pins. A carefully fitted joint, assembled with this toughened CAA from Loctite, and carefully made fillets at the joins after the initial application has set up, would do it...in my best first guess.

I haven't actually tested the toughened Loctite gel on butyrate, so I'd recommend YOU test before committing to a chassis build. If it's not strong enough, a high-strength epoxy (not 5-minute worthless goop) toughened with cotton-flock, with the joints pinned as suggested above, ought to get it.

Edited November 18, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[kossuth]

Man, that's a gorgeous frame. I've had adhesion problems with butyrate tube and rod, and I've never actually tried to build anything out of the wire-core variant.

However, I DO build lots of things from lots of materials, and my first thought would be to cut your down-bars a little long so you can strip back the butyrate coating enough to achieve a 'pin' on the end, and drill your torsion-bar cross-tubes to accept the pins. A carefully fitted joint, assembled with this toughened CAA from Loctite, and carefully made fillets at the joins after the initial application has set up, would do it...in my best first guess.

I haven't actually tested the toughened Loctite gel on butyrate, so I'd recommend YOU test before committing to a chassis build. If it's not strong enough, a high-strength epoxy (not 5-minute worthless goop) toughened with cotton-flock, with the joints pinned as suggested above, ought to get it.

10-4 I'll have to try that then. BTW I have to make sure this is noted incase anybody thinks that's my work, it's definitely not.... That is a image I borrowed from Scale sprints that shows pretty well what I was after. So it's just doctored to illustrate my question alittle better. It's definitely not my frame, but I hope I can make mine look just as good. Here is his post over on scalesprints.

http://www.scalesprints.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1163

Edited November 18, 2013 by kossuth

[randx0]

I never really liked the tube with the wire already in it. Its hard to cut, shape the ends and get to stay glued . I would recommend using appropriately sized tubing with wire placed in it .