3d Printed chassis from IRC 3d Imaging

[Chas SCR]

Here is the first look at the RS (Roadster Shop) Design chassis for the hard core Pro Touring G cars.

The design was sent in from the great people at RS to have this done in scale and fits the 66 Chevelle body styles.

Full upper and lower adjustable A arms with a built in 2inch drop and full Pro Touring G tie down sway bar. The rear cross member

is fully detail and ready for the exhaust to be ran in side it.

They also are working on doing the Corvette and Mustang chassis and plus a few other ones in store.

contact info at irc3d@yahoo.com

[jeffs396]

VERY interesting...

[Danno]

The front clip is crooked. Is that a design problem, a manufacturing problem or a material problem? Is this something to be wary of with the 3D printing process?

[Deano]

Dunno, Danno ... looks to me like it might be a multi-piece affair. The front stub looks like it's not attached.

[Danno]

Dunno, Danno ... looks to me like it might be a multi-piece affair. The front stub looks like it's not attached.

That thought occurred to me, also, Deano.

I just don't know why one would go to the trouble and expense of 3D printing a chassis in multiple parts rather than one-piece. It would be more structurally sound as a one-piece unit, which would seem to be the advantage of 3D printing and would justify the expense.

I was just concerned that if it was a single piece, it should be square.

[Chas SCR]

Deano it was done in multie parts because of the way it has to be done on some systems or it would cost way to much to do for the public. Each 90 degree angle that is not on the bed would have to have so many support parts added to it that it would cost time and money to the point you could not buy this frame.

Ok for it being not squar at the time of the photo there was no parts connected and fulling line up.

Danno It's all about money and being able to get it in some thing that is smoother then what is offard at this time. This is done using ABS plastic and does not need to have any thing put on it to paint it or

glue it together. People also said the same thing about the R&D pot metal chassis and how they was. This stuff here is strong as brass when its done and removed from the machine.

For your cost concerns I will give you and idea how long it takes to do just the front rail. 50min to heat the bed up, 1hr 30min to make the part and another 45min to cool the bed down

for the part to be removed with out warping.

[Danno]

Ok. Interesting. That explains the out-of-square pic.

Much better than having a warped one-piece 3D printed frame!

Edited December 13, 2013 by Danno

[Chas SCR]

yes and plus this one here was done in .1mm per a layer. I can go as .050 or .008mm per a layer but your talking about time and money. The worst setting is at .3mm a layer and it looks like it came from a few places out there with a lot of grit and not smooth.

For warping it's a up and down struggle and also the tolernice is not as good as I wish it would be but it works for my normal use of what I do with the machines. This is just an added on time is all.

The machine has a .040 + - mm hit or miss on each part for thickness. This is a big issue for the companys but for what is at home use it's not going to get any better for the hobbiest side.

I just paid for a set of ones done with some kind of lazer styling machine for the lettering on a valve covers .05x .1mm and it was over 200 just for the set of them to be done.