bigbluesd Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Any ideas on how I can make a better side exhaust tip for my Shelby? The exhaust on these cars to me is a signature, I really don't want to have the solid-core kit piece. I would normally drill it out but with the turn in the pipe at the tip I don't see how I could do it to any significant degree without destroying the pipe in the process. Also, to add a little challenge... I don't have any hobby shops in my area that carry scratch building supplies so any scratch building needs to be with repurposed materials. Edited March 3, 2014 by bigbluesd
65slotcar Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 the best way is aluminum tube or copper . i bought some at a local ace hardware store. use the side exhaust from the kit. cut off straight tube and leave about 1/4 inch of plastic just past were the 4 pipes end. i used 5 minute 2 part epoxy and slid tubing onto the 1/4 inch of plastic. the epoxy will flow and fill gaps. comes out not bad looking.
Jeremy Jon Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 If working with a metal (aluminum or brass) tubing is to daunting for some, perhaps a thick-wall drinking straw could be used? a little bit of heat to curve the exit, and sharp knife to make the angled end, then splice in the kits existing header into the entry end, and paint to complete
afx Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 Aluminum tubing works well and is especially nice if you need and unpainted metal finish. I also like to use solid styrene rod. Solid rod wont collapse when you bend it. I bend it to shape and then hold it over a candle to remove the stress from the plastic and to set the shape. Then drill out the ends to make it appear hollow,
bigbluesd Posted March 3, 2014 Author Posted March 3, 2014 the best way is aluminum tube or copper . i bought some at a local ace hardware store. use the side exhaust from the kit. cut off straight tube and leave about 1/4 inch of plastic just past were the 4 pipes end. i used 5 minute 2 part epoxy and slid tubing onto the 1/4 inch of plastic. the epoxy will flow and fill gaps. comes out not bad looking Aluminum tubing works well and is especially nice if you need and unpainted metal finish. I also like to use solid styrene rod. Solid rod wont collapse when you bend it. I bend it to shape and then hold it over a candle to remove the stress from the plastic and to set the shape. Then drill out the ends to make it appear hollow, Is there any trick to bending the aluminum or copper without it creasing or puckering? Heat I guess?
afx Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) They make a bending kit that is a tightly coiled spring. You select the size spring that fits the tube and slide it on where you want to bend the tube. The spring keeps the tube from kinking. It works but depending on how thigh the bend is its difficult to remove the tube from the spring. You can also fill the aluminum tube with salt not completely but almost full. When the tube bends the salt inside keeps the tube from collapsing, then just pour it out when your finished. Edited March 3, 2014 by afx
bigbluesd Posted March 3, 2014 Author Posted March 3, 2014 I ordered some 1/8" aluminum tubing from eBay, will post after it gets here and let you know how it went! One more question, what do you guys normally use to cut aluminum tubing? I have a small hacksaw but I don't know if it will be too aggressive for such a small part.
Quick GMC Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 I ordered some 1/8" aluminum tubing from eBay, will post after it gets here and let you know how it went! One more question, what do you guys normally use to cut aluminum tubing? I have a small hacksaw but I don't know if it will be too aggressive for such a small part. If you have to, you can use the hack saw and leave an extra 1/16, then sand it back smooth to where you need it with sanding sticks.
afx Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 I use a tubing cutter you can get from the hardware store or my razor saw.
Cato Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 Should look like mine: http:// I cut the sidepipes and flanged for open headers. When open, a 14" collector pipe bolts on with same turnout at end. Or else, you and side of car gets blasted. The full sidepipe is not baffled anyway.
Cato Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 Cato, I prefer yours to mine! I think using individual tubes (head pipes too) , bent as advised and carefully cut gives what you want. Cutting and flanging them like mine actually makes it easier for you to work them. Just takes time...
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