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Posted

ok this is simple forget that method of heating things and bending them and screwing up parts and wasting money!!

from your hobby store

get the desired size tubing you are going to use

get brass rod the fits snuggly to loosly inside this really does not matter nobody will see the rod

insert the brass rod

and bend to desired angle with pliers or your fingers

to attach one section to the next i use crazy glue

its quick and it holds any exess can be sanded later before painting

i will post pics in my album later this week

Posted

Do you mean to insert a brass rod into a styrene tube to get good bends without kinks at the bend?

I've started using electrical wire for the same use recently.

Posted

>I've started using electrical wire for the same use recently.

heres something to watch out for: on my recently completed Big Tub, i replaced the plastic radiator hoses with more realistic looking rubber tubing, and to keep the tubing from kinking i used some 10 gauge solid core electrical wire inside. it had to form a fairly tight "s" to get from the motor outlet to the radiator top cover. and of course i wanted the angle between the radiator shell and the motor and body to be "just so"...and so it was.

until i looked at it the next day. i could hardly believe my eyes. the wire inside the rubber tubing had tried to straighten out and had pushed the top of the rad shell forward, completely destroying the look i wanted. and i had epoxied the brace, radiator core and frame together for strength and the only way that rad shell was getting back to the desired position was with a saw blade and some major heroics, and i just wasnt up for that. as it is, it looks ok, but just ok.

so the point is, watch out for rebound with electrical wire, even solid core wire. it works great until the bends get too tight and then it might not ... though probably on a roll bar tucked away in a closed interior you would not notice the distortion.

Posted
Do you mean to insert a brass rod into a styrene tube to get good bends without kinks at the bend?

I've started using electrical wire for the same use recently.

yeah thats pretty much it no kinks no boiling water no open flame to bend the styrene and screw it up or melt it

Posted
>I've started using electrical wire for the same use recently.

heres something to watch out for: on my recently completed Big Tub, i replaced the plastic radiator hoses with more realistic looking rubber tubing, and to keep the tubing from kinking i used some 10 gauge solid core electrical wire inside. it had to form a fairly tight "s" to get from the motor outlet to the radiator top cover. and of course i wanted the angle between the radiator shell and the motor and body to be "just so"...and so it was.

until i looked at it the next day. i could hardly believe my eyes. the wire inside the rubber tubing had tried to straighten out and had pushed the top of the rad shell forward, completely destroying the look i wanted. and i had epoxied the brace, radiator core and frame together for strength and the only way that rad shell was getting back to the desired position was with a saw blade and some major heroics, and i just wasnt up for that. as it is, it looks ok, but just ok.

so the point is, watch out for rebound with electrical wire, even solid core wire. it works great until the bends get too tight and then it might not ... though probably on a roll bar tucked away in a closed interior you would not notice the distortion.

solder instead of solid wire shouldn't have a "memory".

Posted
>solder instead of solid wire shouldn't have a "memory".

thats something i need to remember for next time!!!

thanks!

But use solid core or (silver$$) acid or rosen are no-no's as they will leak.

I've found "Tix" solder realgood to work with both hot and cold :D:rolleyes:

It is $$$ but I use it elsewhere and is onhand.

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