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Field_Artillery63

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Hey everyone, just started building my first model, I'm 25 and a Army Vet. When I was around 12 I built a few models during my summer breaks from school. Money was tight being that I was only 12, but 13 years later I'm getting back into it and have around 1500.00$ worth of equipment. Almost done with my first model and just seeing if I can get some tips and "constructive criticism". I'll be posting some pictures, so if you have a comment on them don't be afraid to criticize, I'll take it with open arms. Thanks everyone!

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69, that awesome! Thank you sir. And as far as the wiring, I don't think I'm ready for that yet, I don't know where to get the wire, our how to mount them. I've watched a lot of videos that had completed engines with them, but don't know if you have to drill holes or just glue. My biggest concern right now is laying a clear coat on my body. I don't know what to use. It's painted with testors enamel, airbrushed, and I just did the small detail paint work on it(vents, door handles, etc).

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It looks great, for a first build. It looks like you've been building. The paint is awesome. Shiny with no orange peel. I don't think a clear coat will be necessary. My only criticism, would be the engine & trans halves & the mold parting line, where the roof side panels meet the 1/4 panels. A little filling & sanding, on the engine & trans & some sanding on the parting lines, is all it needs. Keep an eye, on it, for your future builds. You did a good job, on the molded in exhaust system. I hate chassis' with molded in details. Of course, you won't see it or the engine / trans parts, sitting on a shelf.

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It looks great, for a first build. It looks like you've been building. The paint is awesome. Shiny with no orange peel. I don't think a clear coat will be necessary. My only criticism, would be the engine & trans halves & the mold parting line, where the roof side panels meet the 1/4 panels. A little filling & sanding, on the engine & trans & some sanding on the parting lines, is all it needs. Keep an eye, on it, for your future builds. You did a good job, on the molded in exhaust system. I hate chassis' with molded in details. Of course, you won't see it or the engine / trans parts, sitting on a shelf.

Completely agreed, when I opened the kit and realized that the exhaust and chassis were on the same mold, all I could think was...yay..but after some meticulous painting it didn't come out to bad. I have some testors putty but I'm kind of unsure how exactly to use it. Drying times, etc. I also used Sand paper for the body but I think it was too course, the papers from the model masters pack. The coarser one left some pretty heavy scratches, and I went down in order, through the paint on the body it is noticeable but not too much, that's why I was going to use a clear coat. In hopes that it would fill the fine scratches. As far as the engine, 100% sure I'm going to putty it the next time.

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I'm going to post another picture of the detail painting I did to the body last night when I get home. I am a QC inspector at an oil field parts machine shop so checking things that are .0001" makes doing detail work not so difficult lol. One more question, what is the best paint applicator to use for small details. I have 00 Humbrol brushes and other sizes but it tends to get away from me on small areas. I've seen something called micro applicators and have been wondering if it works better than an ultra fine brush.

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You're on the right track, Joshua. Don't look for perfection, on your first model. Practice & experience. Learn from your mistakes. I know I have.

As scratches go, I use primer & Micro Mesh padded sanding pads. I got them from an online model shop. They start at 2400 & down to 12000 grit. The finer ones (8000 & 12000 grit), are for color sanding the paint, before polishing. For body work, I usually use sanding sticks, I get from a beauty shop supply store. They are like large emery boards, for finger nails. They come in a coarse, medium, & fine, sometimes ultra fine.

For brushes, I use 00000 brushes (craft stores & art supply stores), for the real small detail. There are even finer ones. I have never used a micro applicator.

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Would 0/5 brush be the same as a 00000 brush? And what brand do you use. I primed the body, bumper, and hood with model master gray enamel primer. It worked very well in my airbrush with a 3 to 2 thinning ratio. I saw the micro mesh pads on a hobby store online. (Hobbylinc) They have very big selection with some very good discounted prices. How well do they hold up though? Also, it seems like sandpaper holds up better with the wet sand method than doing it dry?

In a case where paint on a small precise area has leaked onto the other painted area that surrounds it, (accidental mess up) what's the best way to cover it up? I've been using the wait till it's dry and paint over it method, but that's a 1 day process. Is there a quicker way, like removing it before it drys, or do you risk taking out the underlayed painted area as well?

Thanks for your time and all the info sir, glad I joined this site.

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Joshua, if you use the wet or dry sandpaper wet, it'll last for years. Hobbylinc is a good place to buy from for just about anything.

The only dry sanding I use is with 180-600 grit sanding boards from Sally Beauty Supply. They're a lot cheaper there than the hobby shop. Clean your sandpaper/sticks with a plain square "Artgum" pencil eraser.

5/0 is indeed a 00000 brush.

Have fun, Redleg. B)

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Thanks guys!! My girlfriend went to school for cosmetology so she has a lifetime card for 20% discount on everything at sally's. Plus side of sticking with her for 3 years I suppose lol. What is this artgum pencil eraser? And do you put any brush preserver on your brushes when your done with them for the day?

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Artgum is a brand name for a little 1" square pencil eraser. You can find it at any art supply store, or someplace like Michaels.

I keep a little bar of soap (Motel 6) next to my brushes. after cleaning, a few wet swipes over the bar, then point the brush and store it for the day. The soap dries and keeps the bristles nice for next time.

Store your brushes point-up in a jar or whatever.

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You really sure this is your first model since you was 12 years of age? You sir are doing one very great job so far with the build and it's detail! For the spark plug wire, you do both, drill the holes and insert the wire into a small amount of glue then insert the wire end into the drilled hole. As for the drill bit size go, maybe another member on here can shime in as my number on my drill bit is no longer on there. Also for other tips and tricks maybe you can swing by the Tips and Tricks area of the site on here as there is a lot of good stuff that a person can learn in that area. By the way thanks for serving our country, sir.

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I think I know the eraser your taking about and I never thought of using soap, that's a great idea. Thanks alot!

@bad55 stan, yes first one since I was 12. I absolutely hate painting anything and stay away from it, but with this it's different, it's alot of fun watching small detail work all come together.

My girlfriend/fiance and I were in hobby lobby getting some decorations for her and a new lawn gnome for me, for whatever reason I'm infatuated with gnomes. But we passed on the side of the model car isle and I never knew it was there, when I approached it, I had childhood memories hit me and told her I'd like to start doing this again. This was early December of 2013. Well for Christmas she remembered what I had said and there were two wrapped up models under our tree. Try to keep the spirit alive yea knOw? After that I built a corner counter top out of two 4ft laMinated counter tops from Lowe's, cut a 45° angle on opposite sides and butted them together, then built a frame. Three months later after getting airbrushes, supplies, and watching some videos, here I am.

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