Harry P. Posted March 29, 2014 Author Posted March 29, 2014 I modified the steering system so that the tiller actually steers the wheels... Up on wheels! I decided to add missing real wheel brake and linkage detail and make this a "proper" 1904 model. Next up... scratchbuilding the top.
Cato Posted March 29, 2014 Posted March 29, 2014 Aren't you gonna weather the contact patches (such as they are) at least a dusty tan?? You know us weathering guys...
Mooneyzs Posted March 29, 2014 Posted March 29, 2014 Harry... This is coming along nice and looking good. Very clean work
Harry P. Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 On 3/29/2014 at 2:59 AM, Cato said: Aren't you gonna weather the contact patches (such as they are) at least a dusty tan?? You know us weathering guys... I think the "contact patch" was about the size of a quarter!
Cato Posted March 30, 2014 Posted March 30, 2014 ^^^Yup but they make a nice stripe on the 'tread'...
Harry P. Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 BTW... this whole model (minus the top) could almost fit into the gas tank of your Rolls. It's that small!
Harry P. Posted March 30, 2014 Author Posted March 30, 2014 On 3/30/2014 at 2:17 AM, Cato said: Sorta like a dinghy on a yacht?? Sorta like a life preserver on a yacht...
Harry P. Posted March 31, 2014 Author Posted March 31, 2014 It's hard to see details when everything is painted black, but I added the missing rear wheel brakes and linkages to make this an "official" 1904 model (1903 had only a band brake on the trans, no brakes on the wheels).
Cato Posted March 31, 2014 Posted March 31, 2014 Great job-I know what you mean with blacks and details...
f1ford48 Posted March 31, 2014 Posted March 31, 2014 amazing-looks real- what kind of camera do you use?
Harry P. Posted April 1, 2014 Author Posted April 1, 2014 On 3/31/2014 at 11:12 PM, f1ford48 said: amazing-looks real- what kind of camera do you use? Sony Cyber-shot.
Harry P. Posted April 1, 2014 Author Posted April 1, 2014 The kit's top is molded plastic, and the top irons are hoghly simplified, with a bunch of missing pieces. And the way the top irons mount to the seat is completely wrong and inaccurate... so I'll have to build a complete top framework and mounting system, along with the top itself. First up... to create the rails that are bolted to the sides of the seat, and on which the top irons will connect to. I used reference photos to get the shape of the rails, and used styrene tube, brass rod, and sheet aluminum (for the individual mounting brackets) to create them:
Cato Posted April 1, 2014 Posted April 1, 2014 Beautiful and simple. I have been using lead foil for similar brackets and it works well too, You apparently have really good reference photos, Harry.
Harry P. Posted April 1, 2014 Author Posted April 1, 2014 Here you can see how the side rails from the previous photo mount to the seat. The horizontal brass rod behind the seat is what the lower edge of the top's back flap will attach to, and the main top iron will attach and pivot on the forward ends of the side rails...
sjordan2 Posted April 1, 2014 Posted April 1, 2014 On 4/1/2014 at 5:43 PM, Harry P. said: Here you can see how the side rails from the previous photo mount to the seat. The horizontal brass rod behind the seat is what the lower edge of the top's back flap will attach to, and the main top iron will attach and pivot on the forward ends of the side rails... I'll take your word for it.
Harry P. Posted April 1, 2014 Author Posted April 1, 2014 I used the kit top as a jig to align the scratchbuilt top bows and hold them in the right place while the epoxy dried...
Harry P. Posted April 1, 2014 Author Posted April 1, 2014 On 4/1/2014 at 10:47 PM, Cato said: Epoxy cures... I stand corrected...
Pocherphile Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) On 4/1/2014 at 10:47 PM, Cato said: Epoxy cures... Both statements are true and a play of words.....however, epoxy cooks off, a chemical reaction resulting from mixing the two components together...........this reactions results in the hardener doing just what it says........harden. If you ever use any K&B you will also see what is meant by cook off, as the material literally heats up, hot too the touch. Or as Mr. Pea Body says........science @ work. Edited April 2, 2014 by Pocherphile
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 I used part of one of the unused top frames to make a trunk lid handle.
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 A quick check to make sure the top fits correctly...
Cato Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Harry-Is the white styrene rod drilled for the brass rods?
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