Harry P. Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 If you mean the center top bow, that's actually made of styrene strip, not rod, so I could taper the legs to look more like a 1:1 top. I cut small notches in it to receive the front and rear brass bows. In real life, the front and rear bows pivot where they meet the center bow, to allow the top to fold, but at this scale that detail would be invisible, so I just glued the brass bows to the center styrene bow.
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 Here's a shot of my scratchbuilt upholstered seat cushions. The side rails on the seat should be black to be 100% accurate, but I made my own of brass rod because I like the look of the brass.
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2014 Author Posted April 2, 2014 Spindley and cute. Great job. Now 1/8 scale??? Spindly. Exactly. One of the things most people would never think of if they don't build models of this era is that the farther along you get, the harder it is to hold the model while you work! On this one, there is literally no way to hold the model and apply any amount of force (like drilling a hole) without something snapping off. There is nothing "solid" to hold on to. Can't hold the model by the fenders... the fender brackets are way too weak. Can't hold it by the sides of the body, because the fenders and the step plates are in the way. Can't hold it by the wheels, because the axles and spindles and such are so thin and fragile they'd snap in an instant. I have to come up with creative ways to hold/brace the model while I do things like glue the seat in place, or glue the headlights on.
Bernard Kron Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 This old kit has no business looking this good! Darn nice of Aurora to give you the raw material for all that scratchin'...
Harry P. Posted April 3, 2014 Author Posted April 3, 2014 Got the top built and installed... and that takes me to "Under Glass!"
Cato Posted April 3, 2014 Posted April 3, 2014 Spindly. Exactly. One of the things most people would never think of if they don't build models of this era is that the farther along you get, the harder it is to hold the model while you work! On this one, there is literally no way to hold the model and apply any amount of force (like drilling a hole) without something snapping off. There is nothing "solid" to hold on to. Can't hold the model by the fenders... the fender brackets are way too weak. Can't hold it by the sides of the body, because the fenders and the step plates are in the way. Can't hold it by the wheels, because the axles and spindles and such are so thin and fragile they'd snap in an instant. I have to come up with creative ways to hold/brace the model while I do things like glue the seat in place, or glue the headlights on. I understand completely-but from the opposite end of the spectrum. Working on a 26" long model of some considerable weight is like trying to put eye make-up on a medium sized crocodile. It's mass makes it want to roll out of your hands, clamps or jigs. Plus you've got to not hurt parts you've already attached. These are all things you never consider until they're in your hands.
imatt88 Posted June 2, 2014 Posted June 2, 2014 Harry, Another stunner, for sure. I recently picked up an Aurora 1910 Buick because of you! Love to follow along on these builds. I save the pics for reference.. Cheers, Ian
Harry P. Posted June 2, 2014 Author Posted June 2, 2014 Harry, Another stunner, for sure. I recently picked up an Aurora 1910 Buick because of you! Love to follow along on these builds. I save the pics for reference.. Cheers, Ian Thanks, Ian!
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