AMT4EVR Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 GREETINGS builders, GLUE; what product could I use to de-bond old glue ?, just picked up a box of old glue bomb kits that still can be re-built. Something that would not harm the old plastic. AIR COMPRESSOR; what one is better ? the small metal one painted blue by paasche #D 500 -or- the mini air one in clear blue plastic by testors ? Your comments please, THANKS........ John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vypurr59 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Depending on what type of glue. If testers tube, you could freeze, dethaw and refreeze, and the glue becomes brittle enough to work parts loose. Super glue debonder works for super glues. I have a badger just like the paasche, but without an airtank, it would give pulses of air. You could add an airtank and that would remedy that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Depending on what type of glue. If testers tube, you could freeze, dethaw and refreeze, and the glue becomes brittle enough to work parts loose. Super glue debonder works for super glues. I have a badger just like the paasche, but without an airtank, it would give pulses of air. You could add an airtank and that would remedy that. Actually, I've used nothing but diaphragm style aircompressors with my airbrushes, and have never had any problem with pulsating out of the airbrush. Part of that is that I use a water trap connected to my compressor with 6' of hose, and an additional 6' of hose from water trap to the airbrush. Second, I do almost all my airbrush painting with the air pressure reduced at least a bit by opening the petcock on the bottom of my water trap slightly. I've had the Paasche D500, it did just fine, currently use a Badger 180-1 which is the very same type of compressor. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwrass Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Actually, I've used nothing but diaphragm style aircompressors with my airbrushes, and have never had any problem with pulsating out of the airbrush. Part of that is that I use a water trap connected to my compressor with 6' of hose, and an additional 6' of hose from water trap to the airbrush. Second, I do almost all my airbrush painting with the air pressure reduced at least a bit by opening the petcock on the bottom of my water trap slightly. I've had the Paasche D500, it did just fine, currently use a Badger 180-1 which is the very same type of compressor. Art Do you have a coalesent type filter or just a water separator? How did you arrive at 6', 6' ? How is your main pipe run from the compressor to your water trap? Why do you purge your trap? Why do you use a diaphragm type compressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Do you have a coalesent type filter or just a water separator? How did you arrive at 6', 6' ? How is your main pipe run from the compressor to your water trap? Why do you purge your trap? Why do you use a diaphragm type compressor? All fair questions. My moisture trap is a Binks that I got 50 years ago when I experienced water droplets coming through my airbrush (basement of my parents' house back in '64, Indiana summer humidity), which is a simple, solid brass (nickel-plated). It's a simple moisture trap, in principal no different than the water traps on old cars. It has a knurled threaded petcock at the bottom for draining any moisture, which hasn't been a problem for years, since I've had central air conditioning in every house I had, and now in my apartment. That petcock (drain), being threaded, now serves as a simple pressure regulator--it's quite easy to relieve a bit of the air, for a softer spray along with eliminating any residual pulsation from the compressor. The added 6' of hose also serves to dampen a lot of that pulsation too. At the time (1964, and I was working in a hobby shop back then), Binks strongly recommended a 6' length of hose between compressor and water trap, which makes a lot of sense, as that first section of hose acts like a condenser coil--any moisture due to humidity has room (it's also a larger diameter hose) has room to condense onto the inside of that hose, and flow toward the water trap, the hose allowing the warmer air resulting from compression to cool, which triggers condensation. As for a diaphragm compressor, I've used other compressors (my first was a simple piston unit, which required a simple "bypass" airbrush (one in which air must flow constantly, merely being "stopped off" in order to push the air through the airbrush--very crude setup back then). In addition, that cheap piston compressor, not being able to pump up a pressure tank, also gave a lot of pulsating effect to the air itself, making it literally impossible to get a decent paint job. In the middle 1960's, true airbrushes were just about the most exotic piece of equipment in the hobby--most hobby shops didn't stock them, and a lot of them (my then-employer among them) often tried to discourage a customer from even considering buying one. Badger hadn't yet come on the market, leaving that covered by Paasche, DeVilbiss and Binks, of which only Binks bothered to enter the hobby market, with their Wren external mix unit (that works exactly the same as a Badger 350 and the Paasche H), and the only readily available hobby compressor at the time was the Binks diaphagm unit, which itself is exactly the same type of unit as today's Paasche D500 and the Badger 180. Beyond that, it would have been a shop compressor, which at the time were quite expensive, and of course, noisy as heck, requiring a pressure regulator which was then a pretty expensive accessory. So, the Binks Wren and diaphragm compressor it was. While my original Binks compressor has gone to the great scrapyard in the sky (it ran for several hundred model cars for 30 years before breaking its connecting rod (Binks no longer could supply a replacement con-rod for one that old), so I went with a shop compressor, but once I moved into an apartment (divorce, SHE go the house), that wasn't an option anymore--so on to the Badger, still being used with the same, very reliable and arguably versatile old Binks solid brass water trap and my tried and true habit of using that for lowering air pressure, which I do by 'fit and feel" still. Living as I do, in an upstairs apartment, it behooves me to not unduly disturb the downstairs neighbors, so an old, large beach towel, folded into about 2" of soft pad deadens the vibrations of the Badger compressor, making it almost completely silent (the older lady downstairs never hears it either). Long description, I know, but it is a system that has worked very well for me for now 50 years. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwrass Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) I see! So it's more of a personal shop setup! I still have my original Wren from like when I was 10 Years old, The original box and all! It still works and I use it for certain things today. Didn't have a air compressor when I first got it only R-12 propellant tanks. By todays standard it's a pile of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, however I know a Custom Painter Who still uses one and is by far one of the best Muralists in the world. He uses the fluid screw much like someone would use the trigger on a dual action Brush. Craig Frasier did a two part article on him a few years ago in Airbrush Action Mag or Auto Art Mag The artists Name is IVAN.. jwrass Jeez....... I get BLAHed on a word that rhymes with Rap! YOU need a time out James!!!!!! Edited July 22, 2014 by jwrass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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