Body Paint Question!

[1hobby1]

Hey all, I used to make models years ago ( young child ages) and am starting to get back in to it. I began doing research and had no idea how large the model car community was and the amount of work and detail I missed out on! I recently started a project (1978 Corvette) after many years and began to do some research on how to go along painting it.

I went out and bought Rustoleum Plastic Primer, Gloss Protective Enamel, and Acrylic Gloss Clear Coat.

I started off by washing the body with dish soap and water and then sanded it with 600 grit sand paper. I gave it 2 coats of primer and sanded and washed after each coat with 1500 grit. The body was smooth.

I went and began to apply the paint. I went with a light 1st coat, a semi wet 2nd and a wet 3rd coat. I have not applied any clear coat yet.

The car looks good as is with the gloss finish but it does not have that great mirror like finish to it. ( I'm sure you know what I mean)

How should I go about applying the clear coat? is it needed on a gloss enamel? Also any advice on when to add the body slip away decals?

I am not looking to do any shows with the car but would like to have a good quality finished model for enjoyment and display. Any advice would be great! I will attach a picture of the body as of now!

Edited August 23, 2014 by 1hobby1

[mikemodeler]

You will want to let that enamel gas out for a week or so before clearing it. If there is any dirt or orange peel in the paint you will want to polish it out before spraying the clear.

You might get better results using hobby paint as the Rustoleum tends to be thicker.

[1hobby1]

You will want to let that enamel gas out for a week or so before clearing it. If there is any dirt or orange peel in the paint you will want to polish it out before spraying the clear.

You might get better results using hobby paint as the Rustoleum tends to be thicker.

thanks! It has been about a week since it has been painted, is their any specific process on how to polish it out before spraying clear?

[1hobby1]

Also if anyone can help should I apply the body decals before I spray the clear coat?

thanks guys!

[1hobby1]

Any other advise is greatly appreciated!

Edited August 24, 2014 by 1hobby1

[angelo7]

I apply decals after I color paint, then I apply a high gloss clear coat or maybe two over the decals and paint. As mikemodeler says, I would use hobby paints only, anything else is too thick. I personally don't like primers. I use as few coats of paint or clear as possible.

[jbwelda]

if you have good coverage with that color coat, and its not obviously orange peeled or anything, and you are basically happy with it, I would not polish it at this stage. I would apply a coat of clear or two, and allow that to gas out for a week or two. in the meantime I would get a polishing kit. now that means a lot of different things to a lot of people, but what I mean is a graduated set of emery cloth from 3000 to 12000 grit.

take the polishing kit, follow the instructions or you can find good ones here on this site if you look around a bit, and give your clear coat a polish from probably about the 4000 down to probably the 8000 grit. at this point you are going to think you have screwed yourself because the finish will look dull, but what you've done is polish down the surface to a nice even level (you can feel it when you run your fingers over the body, feels WAY smoother than what you thought was smooth before). the problem is that it is pretty easy to cut down through the paint on the raised highlights; that's helped a bit by the clear coats you have already applied, and many times if you just barely cut down to primer it can be repaired successfully.

then you can apply your decals, use some decal solvent like solva-set, and then after they dry for at least a day, shoot a final shiny coat of your clear and let it sit. a few days later you should repeat the polishing, this time for real, and probably start with the 6000 cloth, go all the way through the 12000 (again being careful not to cut down through the clear to the decals or all the way to primer) and then put on some plastic "wax" finish like mcquires liquid. you will be amazed at the result I guarantee it.

jb

[1hobby1]

if you have good coverage with that color coat, and its not obviously orange peeled or anything, and you are basically happy with it, I would not polish it at this stage. I would apply a coat of clear or two, and allow that to gas out for a week or two. in the meantime I would get a polishing kit. now that means a lot of different things to a lot of people, but what I mean is a graduated set of emery cloth from 3000 to 12000 grit.

take the polishing kit, follow the instructions or you can find good ones here on this site if you look around a bit, and give your clear coat a polish from probably about the 4000 down to probably the 8000 grit. at this point you are going to think you have screwed yourself because the finish will look dull, but what you've done is polish down the surface to a nice even level (you can feel it when you run your fingers over the body, feels WAY smoother than what you thought was smooth before). the problem is that it is pretty easy to cut down through the paint on the raised highlights; that's helped a bit by the clear coats you have already applied, and many times if you just barely cut down to primer it can be repaired successfully.

then you can apply your decals, use some decal solvent like solva-set, and then after they dry for at least a day, shoot a final shiny coat of your clear and let it sit. a few days later you should repeat the polishing, this time for real, and probably start with the 6000 cloth, go all the way through the 12000 (again being careful not to cut down through the clear to the decals or all the way to primer) and then put on some plastic "wax" finish like mcquires liquid. you will be amazed at the result I guarantee it.

jb

great advice! I will look into a polishing kit and polish after I clear coat correct? As for the actual clear coat, should I spray the rustoleum acrylic gloss clear coat I bought? I have read a lot on Future clear floor polish and have heard you can brush it on. any feedback on that? thanks!

Edited August 24, 2014 by 1hobby1

[1hobby1]

or am I better off using the Tamiya Clear over the automotive paint?

[angelo7]

I would choose the Tamiya clear.

[1hobby1]

I would choose the Tamiya clear.

Even though I used rustoleum paint? that wont effect anything correct? sorry for all the questions I'm just really new to modeling and trying to learn what is best!

[angelo7]

It don't matter what you used before. Just my opinion. I once painted using a hobby spray red color and then used a Rustoleum Crystal Clear spray and had good results. The thing about big spray cans is that they will tend to be thicker and if you use too many coats you will start covering some of the small details. And big cans have a bigger nozzle and will spit out even more paint than a hobby spray.

Edited August 24, 2014 by angelo7

[jbwelda]

in my opinion, and there are a lot who disagree with me, you are playing with fire with that clear you have. might work out fine, might eat down into the paint or check or a myriad of other problems. if you ask me, Tamiya clear every time. Model Master gloss clear is good too, its ultra "wet look" if that's the look you are after. its just that its nozzle is pretty "heavy" and its easy to overdo it. in case you DO overdo it with the clear, don't freak out, just let it dry and curtain down, when it dries it will be a lot less apparent and you can smooth it before the polishing stage by sanding it smooth.

as for the polishing, like I said, you want to preserve your paint job with the first coats of clear, then polish that, then decal and reclear, and do a final polish on the final clear coat.

good luck and have fun

jb

[1hobby1]

in my opinion, and there are a lot who disagree with me, you are playing with fire with that clear you have. might work out fine, might eat down into the paint or check or a myriad of other problems. if you ask me, Tamiya clear every time. Model Master gloss clear is good too, its ultra "wet look" if that's the look you are after. its just that its nozzle is pretty "heavy" and its easy to overdo it. in case you DO overdo it with the clear, don't freak out, just let it dry and curtain down, when it dries it will be a lot less apparent and you can smooth it before the polishing stage by sanding it smooth.

as for the polishing, like I said, you want to preserve your paint job with the first coats of clear, then polish that, then decal and reclear, and do a final polish on the final clear coat.

good luck and have fun

jb

angelo7 & jbwelda Thanks for all the great advice! I will be ordering some Tamiya clear coat to play it safe. as well as the LMG Polishing kit. I'll upload pictures in a few weeks of the final product!

[angelo7]

Forgot to mention. I avoid applying decals directly a over a flat color. I apply a clear coat first if I use a flat color. I read somewhere that they won't stick well over a flat color.

[1hobby1]

I actually just ordered some of the testors clear coat! Found it for a good price and I read it does a good job so I was sold!

As for the flat paint that's great advice for future builds thanks!

Since I already have gloss paint on this car I should apply decals before clear correct? Then after clear coat is over decals go ahead and polish with the 3600 threw the 12000 along with scratch remover polish and wax

Edited August 25, 2014 by 1hobby1