70.5 Baldwin Motion Camaro Finally Finished!

[exesivefire]

looking really good, I like the color choice. Really clean work too.

weird question, does this kit come with the stock hood too? or just the Baldwin one? thanks in advance

[microwheel]

The kit doesn't come with the stock hood. Only the Baldwin Motion hood. Seems that AMT included a few stock parts such as the stock steering wheel and even a extra rear end. But there wasn't any of the other stock parts.

[John Pol]

Great job so far would be neat if you would show a how too one the brakes and electric fuel pump. I`m sure I`m not the only one that would like to know how

[exesivefire]

The kit doesn't come with the stock hood. Only the Baldwin Motion hood. Seems that AMT included a few stock parts such as the stock steering wheel and even a extra rear end. But there wasn't any of the other stock parts.

Thanks. I was hopeful it would, I really don't want the Orange plastic z28. Haha

[microwheel]

Great job so far would be neat if you would show a how too one the brakes and electric fuel pump. I`m sure I`m not the only one that would like to know how

I would have done a pic how to.. on the brake lines and fuel pumps, but at the time I was working on them my SLR camera's batteries had died, I didn't know it at the time and when I went to shoot the parts during the process the camera wouldn't fire up. So the batteries had to go on the charger for a couple day. I will try to do a brief write up of the process and materials to use in the next few days and post it on here. I dont have a extra Baldwin Camaro kit to use for pics though. But I do detail my builds alot, so I will try to pay special attention to that process on the next build. I do plan to make front brake cables for it, and part of the process on the e-brake cabling is the same for the front brakes, so stay tuned.

[microwheel]

Thanks. I was hopeful it would, I really don't want the Orange plastic z28. Haha

The Z28 kit is pretty much the same quality, but yes your right, most of them are molded in orange.. not really a problem though, just pick up a can of Tamiya white fine primer and it will make quick work of the orange plastic issue. It goes on pretty darn smooth and you cant paint almost any type of paint over it.

[microwheel]

Great job so far would be neat if you would show a how too one the brakes and electric fuel pump. I`m sure I`m not the only one that would like to know how

Hi again John, as a follow up to my last reply to you. though this kit went a little different than my 70 cuda, you can check out this link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90241&page=3 , for the concept and process of doing the brake and fuel lines. It's pretty much the same, except for the fact that the cuda didn't have a electric fuel pump, and the E-brake cables were a little different, but thats because of the different ways the manufacturers make and route them. For the fuel pump on this build, I drilled a small hole just through the chassis, about centered above the edge of the fuel tank for the outgoing fuel line, and one on each side of the kit supplied fuel pump. I use scale fuel and brake line from the Model Car Garage and bent it to the shape I wanted it. I also used the Model car Garage vintage hose clamps and line brackets, the line brackets were bent over the fuel and brake lines, with a pair of needle nose pliers before CA gluing them into place.. For the rubber hose, with the hose clamps on them, I used scale 3/4 heater hose with the insert wire pulled out to make them hollow, from the Model car Garage. Then I wrapped the vintage hose clamps arount each end of them. I buy alot of my detailing stuff from the Model car Garage. The rubber hose was then slid over the metal fuel line with enough metal line sticking out the rubber hose ends so the metal lines could be inserted into the holes I drilled. The E-Brake cable was a combination of piano wire for the front pull brackets, evergreen plastic rod (drilled out with a pin vise) and flat evergreen strips cut to size and glued into L brackets, for the frame brackets. The heavier areas coming off the back wheels were scrap scale plug wire wrapped with leftover scale metal brake wire so they looked like spring wrapped cable. The front part of the e-brake cables are just scale plug wire stripped of its insulation and straightened and bent to shape, then glued to each of the back spring cables at the frame L brackets. The rear E-Brake pulls on each side of the axle where just cut and shaped out of a couple of small pieces of evergreen plastic strip and a hole drilled on the ends to mount the e-brake cables to, and then glued onto the axle ends where the wheel hub stops are. I know I don't have pics of the process in progress, but if you look at the finished pics and red my description here, you should be able to understand the process.

[microwheel]

Updates for this evening.

First here is a pic of the Tie Rod ends being pinned for removal. This was the last step before everything could be disassembled for clean up and detail painting.

Next I wanted to make a set of front coil springs, because I never have liked kit supplied coil springs. They just look too toyish to me.

I started out by finding a coarse thread screw the same diameter as the coil sping mounting holes on the frame. I also dug out a piece of thing soft wire from my supply drawer to make the new springs out of.

I started by wrapping the wire tightly around the screw threads.

Once I was satisfied I had enough spring coil for both coil springs I removed the wire from the screw.

Next I placed the original kit spring beside my new coil spring stock and cut the new springs to size.

The new springs were test fitted in the frame for fit.

Continued with next post.................................

[microwheel]

Next up was to make a set of shock stalks to fit down into the center of the springs. For this I dug out a piece of evergreen round tube.

The tubing was cut into two piece the same length as the kit spring.

All the front end pieces where then detail painted and set aside to dry and to get ready for assembly.

Assembly started by epoxy gluing the springs into the frame, and cementing the shock stalks onto the lower a frame assembly.

Next the Tie Rod and Spindle Arms assembly was re-pinned to the upper and lower A Frames and the lower A frame assembly was glued into place. This completed the basic front suspension assembly.

Continued on to next post.............

[microwheel]

Here is the front end suspension in it's default straight wheels position.

In the next couple of pics you can get a idea of how the Tie Rod work I did, will function with turning both front wheels together.

by the way, the pin heads will get painted semi-gloss black before the assembly is permanently installed on the chassis.

Here is a couple of pics of the front suspension test fitted on the chassis. I still have some more detail work to do on the front end yet, before it gets set into place permanently. Things such as front brake lines and the front part of the fuel line running up to the engine.

And wouldn't you just know it, my camera batteries ran down again, just as I finished up with these pics. Sooooooo, back in the charger they go again.. I guess its getting close to time to buy new ones.

Anyways, next up, I think it will be time to get back to work on the interior and start some work on the engine.

Edited October 21, 2014 by microwheel

[freakshow12]

That is just fantastic Jim! I have few of these and a few of the Z/28s all original issues so molded in that tan. I have started a couple but never finished! I may have to rethink that. They are very nice kits minus a few sink and high spots on the body. I do quite like the headliner detail they put in

[microwheel]

That is just fantastic Jim! I have few of these and a few of the Z/28s all original issues so molded in that tan. I have started a couple but never finished! I may have to rethink that. They are very nice kits minus a few sink and high spots on the body. I do quite like the headliner detail they put in

Hi Fred, thanks, I never did buy any of the original kits, but if there were issues with the body on the originals, well round2 must of done some work to it, aside from a couple of mold lines on the body, there wasn't anything else I had to do to get it ready for paint.. Well I did crisp up the line on the front nose area where the grill sits to make it look more like the removable part it was. The kit does have a little bit of flashing and mold lines on alot of parts that have have to be cleaned up, but that was always typical with AMT kits anyways. You can see a couple of sink marks in the bottom of the front frame that I missed when I was working on it before paint, but then my eyes ain't what they used to be, even with a high powered magnifying glass.

Edited October 21, 2014 by microwheel

[freakshow12]

The originals have sink marks on fender tops directly over headlights. Drivers was worst if I recall. And it took some good blocking on the roof to knock down a bump where the dome light is. I also found on that styrene the dupli color primer would ghost the headliner detail to the roof top if applied too heavy at first. This is a trick I found though ( now tell me if I sound crazy, I am medicated! Lol) if you put the primer on the inside of the body first, the ghosting from mold lines and everything goes to the INSIDE!! I then primed the outside with no issues! Do it all the time now. I tried it with emblems that I sanded off and it worked flawlessly for me! Weird hey?

[microwheel]

LOL I totally get what your saying, but I didn't seem to have those issues with this one.. I got the one molded in white. I don't know what Round 2 did to correct those issues, especially with any ghosting, but I never had a problem with it on this kit. I did use Tamiya's white ultra fine primer.. Don't know if that made a difference, or if Round 2 just did something different with the plastic they used in the injection mold process. But I didn't find any body sink mark issues with the kit or any high spots for that matter, and the only place I had any ghosting issues was on the package self on the back of the rear seat.. But I also didn't primer any of the interior parts before I painted them either.. So who knows lol.

[microwheel]

Those darn sink marks on the front frame are bothering me now that I see em.. Sooooooo, you know what I just did lol... Sanded the paint off the frame rail on that side and hit it with some green squadron putty, should be able to sand it down and repaint it in the morning.. I'll make short work of them dog gone sink marks.. Don't like missing stuff like that.. LOL

[freakshow12]

It's a beautiful subframe with a little work yup. I have used it on a couple hot rod builds. Fits perfect under 48-52 ford pickups

[microwheel]

Yes it sure is, I just cant believe I missed the sink marks on the one side of it before I painted it. I got em all filled in now I think though, just got done sanding and priming them.. We'll see how it looks once the primer dries and the semi gloss black goes back on lol

[microwheel]

Repaired a few sink marks on the bottom of the drivers side front frame rail that I missed. Just waiting for the paint to dry. Should be all better now LOL.

[microwheel]

In these pics you can see the before pic with the sink marks on one side of the front frame rail that I missed and forgot to fix before I painted it.

And in this pic, I masked off and sanded down the crappy looking frame rail side, filled it with green squadron putty, sanded, primed and repainted it. Now I'm happy again. I hate when I miss stuff like that.

Edited October 21, 2014 by microwheel

[10thumbs]

Jim, just excellent work your doing here. What a difference detailing makes!

Michael

[microwheel]

This morning's update.

One of the things about this kit I really didn't like was the dash. Good thing Model Car Garage makes a detail set for this kit with a corrected dash pad and dash detail.

Sooooo here is a few pics of what my plan is for the dash.

This is what I'm starting with

Here is a few reference pics to give you an idea of how the dash should really look and what I'm attempting to do.

Notice that the dash pad does not go all the way back to the windshield, and that there is defroster vents and speaker grill? Where the pad ends on the top of the dash there is usually a slight seem.

You can see the contrast between the pad and the hard part of the top of the dash pretty well in this pic.

And here is a good example of how the dash pad is a separate piece from the part of the dash back by the windshield. If you go back up and look at the first pic I posted with the kit dash in it, you will see it looks like a solid white blob with no detail, at least to me.

So The first think I did was take the Model Car Garage dash top and lay it over the kit dash and mark a line where the two should meet.

Next was to place masking tape along the line I mark so when I go to cut this back part of the dash off, I wouldn't accidentally slip and gouge the good part of the dash.

Continued on next post..................................

[Devilsnake98]

Thank you for sharing that conversion on the dash. I've been wondering for a long time how that pe set actually worked. I think ill get one now. Very nice work on the chassis too.

Edited October 21, 2014 by Devilsnake98

[microwheel]

Next was to scribe and cut the area to be removed, with my xacto knife.(at this point I also sanded down and cleaned up the dash face as best I could, because I intend to use more of the model car garage's dash detail parts.)

Next, using CA cement, I attached the new Model Car Garage dash top to the kit dash, then using a little bit of baking soda I fill what little bit of gaps I found along the seem, and carefully sanded it down.

Next was to lay the dash gauge insert from the Model Car Garage into the dash face and gently bend it into shape. This was then removed as it will get painted separately.

Notice that the gauge face opening are a little off centered.. No big deal as the gauge backings that Model Car Garage supplies with their kit will hide this

Next was to primer the dash and set it aside to dry. what tiny few gaps may still be visible will get fixed before final paint

Anyways I think the dash will look much better that what was supplied by the kit.

Will post more as I get it done.

Edited October 21, 2014 by microwheel

[10thumbs]

Jim, could you explain some about the baking soda? This one is new to me.

Michael

[microwheel]

Jim, could you explain some about the baking soda? This one is new to me.

Michael

Hi Michael, well, when I fill small gaps. some times I use a medium grade CA glue called extreme power. It's a little thicker than the thin flowing grade, and because its a little thicker, it takes a little longer to dry. Once I apply the glue to the seem, or gap, I want to fill, I add a dusting of baking soda, (but even baking powder will work) over top of the glue, before it dries, and blow off the excess. This helps the glue dry faster and also works to help fill the gap more evenly and make it easier to sand smooth. It's a trick I learned many years ago before the days of hobby CA glues, when i was using superglue for the same things. But it still works great.