ferrari87 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 They do carry Tamiya paints. You might want to call before hand if your going to drive that far to buy some. Also i never even thought about the bag idea before. lol Stupid me! Well, it might be worth to go just to simply nose around and see what's there. I work in the city so one of these days I might just leave for work extra early and go poke around before work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Yeah I'm broke most of the time so it'll just be a nosing around trip anyways haha. When I go to visit my hometown in Kentucky, there's an awesome hobby town there chocked full of stuff. I usually get home every few months at least, so I can get stuff there, just have to wait for it. I work at the state hangar, I'm an intern pilot for the state DOT. Doesn't pay, but I get all the free flight time I can handle, and that's just fine with me!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) Stopped by Hobby Town in Mt. Juliet today, WOW! Biggest one I've ever seen haha. I stocked up on some paint, and some Matchbox cars. They've really got a great selection of everything. Onto the Ferrari... Let's try this again. I spent a good hour sanding the paint down today, and re-priming it. And YES I warmed up the primer before hand and it went on beautifully. The bodywork isn't perfect, you can still see remnants of the old paint in a couple places. I'm not expecting perfection this time, I'm still learning the proper techniques for sanding and painting, but I'm happy enough for now! I've gotten a couple different greens now that I hope will match up fairly well to the original green that I painted the chassis with. Since I only painted the chassis with it, I'm not too worried about it matching perfectly, but we'll see how it goes from here... 612 in primer by MBXPilot, on Flickr[url=https://flic.kr/p/pcyJcV] Edited November 22, 2014 by MBXPilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 And here's a super crappy sample of the color I got. It's GM emerald green metallic. Matches the other green pretty well. 612 color sample by MBXPilot, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrherald420 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Its a good Hobby Town, better sized than the one in Murfreesboro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I stopped by Friday before work and I felt like I had gone to heaven. I picked up a few tools i've been needed and two Tamiya kits, an R-32 and an R-34 VSPEC II. It's a well stocked shop. It's a little far but it was worth the trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Hang in there Logan. Glad to hear your paint went on better.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 I looked at both of those kits when I was there haha. They look nice! They seem to have decent prices on stuff too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrherald420 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 They do have pretty good prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Update! Got the body painted this morning, and it went on very nicely! I did a couple very light coats, and then built it up slowly from there. I'm thrilled with it at this stage. I'm going to let it set for a few days, then go at it with some very fine paper (carefully, that makes me a bit nervous haha) and then clear! Ferrari body painted by MBXPilot, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrherald420 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I wouldn't sand it before clear if its a metallic color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Ok thanks for the tip. Does that mess with the metallic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzwizz24 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I agree with James. I would try to avoid sanding metallics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Another stupid question. Decals then clearcoat or clearcoat then decals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo nova Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Ok thanks for the tip. Does that mess with the metallic? yes, when you sand the base you knock the color and finish off the metallic prism's and the exposed edges are no longer reflective and uniform. If you feel the need its usually best to clear soon after base coat while still in the chemical adhesion window, put down one or two light coat's, wet sand then clear again. IMO decals are hit and miss under clear as some decals will flat out dissolve under some automotive clear. Ive had great luck clearing the base with the clear recommended for it then wet sanding/polishing, then decals and future everything. Thats just what works for me on decals though, not try'n to step on any toes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Logan, in armor, i'd do flat coat of clear, then decals, then another clear coat. I've come across several ways of doing it on cars, you can lay a coat of clear, lay decals, then lay your second coat of clear OR you can apply a small amount of clear, to the area that the decal is going to go, and then place the decal. Either way it seems like you are doing the same thing. Also, you can look into using Future aka, Pledge Multi-surface floor polish. It's an acrylic based miracle potion! It's self leveling, so you can either brush or spray it and it's ready to go straight from the bottle. Best yet, it cleans up with windex! Perhaps even bestest yet, because it's acrylic based, you don't have to worry about it attacking an enamel or lacquer based paint! It's truly awesome. Oh, did I mention a bottle will last you forever?! You can also use it for the windows. In scale aircraft, guys would dip the aircraft canopies in a small bowl filled with future and then pull the window out and allow most of the future to drip off. The results are fantastic AND you can use it to secure the windows to the model without worrying about the window fogging or turning yellow! Anyway, I'd say do a coat of clear, place the decals, then spray your second coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Oh yes yes I know all about Future. It's wonderful stuff!!! I use it on widows for all my Matchbox restorations. I'll play around with it, maybe airbrush on a light coat, then decals, then another couple light coats. Thanks for the suggestion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 A couple of updates for you guys today. I decided to try a Krylon acrylic clearcoat I've had good luck with on my Matchboxes, and it looks good here too! I applied a couple light coats, and applied the decals for the body. Waiting for them to set up, then will do a final coat of clear. Ferrari 612 update by MBXPilot, on Flickr Interior is shaping up well. This is a Krylon khaki beige with a testors flat clearcoat. Ferrari 612 update by MBXPilot, on Flickr And the dashboard is finished! Ferrari 612 update by MBXPilot, on Flickr Not perfect, but I'm happy with how it's turning out so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrherald420 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Not bad! Almost finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Ferrari chassis and interior by MBXPilot, on Flickr Got the wheels on, and the entire left front suspension collapsed when the weight was placed on the wheels LOL. So I attacked it with some more glue and hope it'll hold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBXPilot Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 Well, I'm remembering what made me quit the hobby a few years ago. Final assembly... The body doesn't sit on the chassis flush, not even close. There's a good quarter inch gap pretty much all the way around it. And 3 of the 4 corners suspension collapsed again when I tried to put everything together finally... What gives??? Anybody have a magic trick that will make this all work? Luckily the suspension sits somewhat correctly if you just don't touch it. Not to mention how I ruined the side windows with the wrong type of glue. Ferrari by MBXPilot, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 that's an awful gap. I've never come across a misfit so bad before. Did you by chance incorrectly place the interior tub? It's also possible that the kit was warped when you bought it. I haven't heard or seen of a revell kit being so off before. If your suspension is falling apart, what type of glue are you using? CA (aka super glue) or cement? Or are you using an epoxy? I can't think of a method that will fix the issues. You're going to have to tackle one at a time. First, find out what's causing the suspension to collapse. Then see what's causing the body to not properly align. The windows, well I have no idea how to solve that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuzzed Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Logan, in armor, i'd do flat coat of clear, then decals, then another clear coat. I've come across several ways of doing it on cars, you can lay a coat of clear, lay decals, then lay your second coat of clear OR you can apply a small amount of clear, to the area that the decal is going to go, and then place the decal. Either way it seems like you are doing the same thing. Also, you can look into using Future aka, Pledge Multi-surface floor polish. It's an acrylic based miracle potion! It's self leveling, so you can either brush or spray it and it's ready to go straight from the bottle. Best yet, it cleans up with windex! Perhaps even bestest yet, because it's acrylic based, you don't have to worry about it attacking an enamel or lacquer based paint! It's truly awesome. Oh, did I mention a bottle will last you forever?! You can also use it for the windows. In scale aircraft, guys would dip the aircraft canopies in a small bowl filled with future and then pull the window out and allow most of the future to drip off. The results are fantastic AND you can use it to secure the windows to the model without worrying about the window fogging or turning yellow! Anyway, I'd say do a coat of clear, place the decals, then spray your second coat. I wouldn't use a flat coat under decals. That's a good way to induce silvering. I know from past experience. Also, articles in every military modeling magazine that I have indicate that builders will either hit the whole model with a coat of clear gloss, apply decals, then clear flat, or hit individual areas with a clear gloss (or Future), apply decals, then, use a clear flat over that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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