6x6 Paystar

[Southgate]

This is my most recent big rig build. It has been seen on other sites, I hope that's not a problem. It features a scratchbuilt front axle, bed, tool box, and the Italeri crane has a few modifications on it. The rear suspension is fully equalized. The truck rides on wheels and tires from the Italeri Truck Conversion kit that the Effer crane is from. Dan

[Guest tonyboy]

Hi Dan. Welcome to the board. Excellent model. I am a big fan of IH Paystars and I must say that is a great job. All of the Ertl International's built into great models and yours is great.

[mackinac359]

Dan

Cool lookin' Paystar. That Ertl kit is quite versitle.

Tim

[Aaronw]

I really started paying attention to trucks with cranes when you started this one, now even though its done I can't help but look when I see one. I actually saw one very similar to what you did today coming back from Bakersfield, not blue or a Paystar but almost the same build up.

Bakersfield is not much of a city for sight seeing but its great place to look at trucks (they don't call it the big truck stop for nothing)

[midwest 1953]

Dan,

This looks great!

What did you do for the front axle and transfer case?

Looks like the front wheels are poseable ?

Jim A.

[dieseldoc]

nice lookin truck

[Southgate]

Thanks for the replies gents!

The front wheels are posable

The front axle was scratchbuilt using aluminum tubing. I simply used the Paystar's front spindles by making kingpins from 1/16 aluminum tubing, drilling holes through the ends of the axle at the same angle as the original axle's, and drilling a 1/16 hole all the way through the Spindles after assembling the spindle (turning knuckle) as per kit.

I would suggest using 2 separate pices for the axle tube, (3/16) and insert a piece of 7/32 thru the differential, just barely longer than the pumpkin. Then you can trim the axle tubes to the proper width and offset, as well as making sure the kingpins are paralell to each other, something that is difficult to do when drilling a single piece. You also have to file the ends of the axles away at an angle to give room for the backplate's motion.

It doesn't have those big round joints on the ends of the axle but I can live with that for a setup that steers.

The tie rod uses the kit's rods ends inserted into 3/32 aluminum tubing bent to clear the back of the diff housing.

The differential came from an AMT Kenworth T600A. Since these vary in size, just try to find one that is relatively small, but still from a big truck.

The transfer case was from an AMT Ford Bigfoot (the early version). I had to shorten it slightly to fit between the frame rails. I did a toot on how to make the rear equalizers work too if anyone is interested. Dan

[midwest 1953]

Dan,

Thanks for posting those.

I'm currently working on an FWD converted from a Ford C.

I wanted a square cross-section on the axle tubes, so I used a cut and glue approach instead. Right now it's still in the tiny bits stage, but when it gets a little further along I'll post some pictures. It's always great to see how someone else did something.

Looks like the transfer-case will be built from scratch.

Jim A.

[Southgate]

Thats cool, cuz I want to do a Ford C based FWD also. Can't decide which one, they have rather a variety. One is a cement mixer with what appears to be an 8x6 setup. The front axle appears to be driven, the 2nd front a tag, and then the driven rear tandem. Or just a 2 axle 4x4. All of them are interesting. Dan

[Trailer Mechanic]

Dan

IMPRESSIVE!