Decals?

[jacoballardtattoo]

Okay so when I first started building models in the late 80s early 90s I could expect good quality waterside decals in any kit I got. Flash forward to now I just picked the Hobby back up and 2 of the 3 kits I have come with a printed sheet that you cut out the image and glue it on (they are nicer than printer paper) is this common of most models now?

Also with learning of this style of decal I'm interested in creating my own but have no clue how to tale my image and scale it down to an accurate size with standard programs (ie all I have really is word) does anyone know how I could do this?

(For anyone that might be concerned of copyright infringement I am an artist and highly against me doing that, I don't want it done to me.)

[randx0]

Which kits came with these decals?

[Drake69]

Great, easy to use FREE graphic software: GIMP

Type of paper needed for decals: Decal paper, either White or Transparent

Type of printer to print decals: Inkjet or Laserjet

Decal protection and manipulation agent: Liquid Decal Film

Decal setting solution: Micro Set

Decal conforming solution for uneven surfaces: Micro Sol

1: GIMP is a powerful freeware software package that has almost as much versatility as Photoshop. Go HERE and download it.

2: The difference between white and transparent decal paper: when a decal is printed on transparent paper, anything not covered with ink will be see-through, and when printed on white paper, the decal will need to be trimmed completely to eliminate any white borders around the edges since the white part of the paper transfers with the decal to the model.

3: Most important thing about inkjet or laserjet printers: they do NOT print the color WHITE. Since white is considered the absence of color, the print heads will not print that color on paper. This is why white decal paper is used to retain the white color in a decal, and why it needs to be trimmed carefully to avoid any white areas left over when using them on a model.

4: The material in decal paper is VERY THIN. This means that once you have printed your graphic off onto the paper you will need to coat it so that it strengthens the artwork for removal and manipulation. Use Liquid Decal Film (LDF) after printing your decals or you might have your artwork fracture into thousands of pieces.

5: Because LDF coats anything you touch it to on the paper, once it has dried completely you need to trim around the decal close so that residual film is not left behind when transferred, very similar to what white decal paper will do if not cropped close. DO NOT USE LDF DIRECTLY ON A MODEL AFTER APPLYING A DECAL. IT WILL EAT THROUGH PAINTS!

6: Micro Set and Micro Sol need to be used sparringly around your artwork. Micro Set is good for a light base on the model before applying the decal, and afterwards to get it to settle in place, but too much Micro Set has the same effect as Micro Sol and will dissolve your decal if overly used. Micro Sol is a SOLVENT and should only be used lightly to get a problematic decal on an uneven surface to set properly. Doubly so if used on thin homemade decals.

Some of my work I did on decal paper. The inkjet I used was low quality and as such the decals came out this way. Rule of thumb: The better the quality of the printer, the better quality of the decal......

ADDENDUM: There are printers that print the color white as well as metallic colors like gold and silver, but they are quite expensive (in the neighborhood of $2000~$4000). Used ALPS printers can be had on eBay and other auction sites for around $500~$1000 but are no longer made, so spare parts and fully working ones are scarce.

Edited February 20, 2015 by Drake69

[jbwelda]

yeah, what kits have those kind of stickers? I don't think I have ever seen anything like that. there are some, usually elementary, kits that have peel and stick kind of stickers but you don't cut them out (and they are 100% terrible).

anything other than water slide (and maybe dry transfer) are not worth dealing with if you ask me.

jb