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dmk

Member Since 18 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 10 2014 04:05 AM
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Topics I've Started

Are these Corvette hubcaps available in 1/25?

26 September 2013 - 10:00 AM

Is there a kit or an aftermarket source for these Corvette hubcaps?

 

I'd love to build something like this car with the Revell kit.

 

http://www.mecum.com...&entryRow=480#2


Do cars owned by US servicemen in the UK have special plates or stickers?

23 September 2013 - 07:07 AM

I have a couple car kits that are left hand drive. I was thinking it would be cool to build a model of a car owned by a US serviceman stationed in the UK. (especially for cars that never got imported to the US)

 

Would this just be a matter of throwing some UK plates on it and calling it good, or would a US serviceman in the UK have special plates or stickers that may be obvious on a model?


Chassis Weathering

14 September 2013 - 01:25 PM

I tested out a Salt Weathering technique for chassis weathering that I thought some of you guys might appreciate. This is not an original idea. I've seen military aircraft guys use this to simulate random patchy camouflage paint on modern Navy aircraft, and armor guys use it to simulate rust under peeling paint.  I recently watched some Dr. Cranky videos on Youtube and he was using this technique to simulate a grungy chassis on a post-apocalyptic zombie hunter type vehicle. That got me to thinking that it could be used to simulate a muddy chassis on a 4x4 that I'm building.

 

This is my first attempt at this, so I decided not to risk ruining the model I'm building. Instead I mocked up an approximation of a ladder vehicle chassis with some scrap sprue. The floor pan is a sample credit card from the junkmail and the front and rear suspension are a spare set from one of those Revell "Donk" kits.

 

With the test mule assembled, I sprayed the whole thing with flat black Krylon right from the spray can. After about an hour, I airbrushed two shades of dark gray (Tamiya Nato Black and Testors Engine Gray) lightly around the chassis. Leaving more protected the top of the chassis darker and spraying the lighter gray more on the more weathered areas areas towards the ground like the bottoms of the frame rails and the bottoms of the axle and suspension.

 

 I let that dry a couple days, and in the mean time bought some fresh salt (the stuff I had on hand was gummy from moisture and would not work).From all the research that I did on the subject, it seemed that I would need some fine and some course salt. I picked up these two at Walmart for right at $2. 

2013-09-14184015.jpg

 

I poured equal amounts of the two salts on a piece of paper and mixed it together. I then I wet the chassis with a spray bottle filled with warm plain tap water and started sprinkling the salt mixture around just pinching it in my fingers and just carefully dropping it all over. I heavily salted the chassis, especially the top areas that may not get as much mud and dirt.  I let that dry overnight and then airbrushed some dark brown randomly around from the bottom (though I did hit the tops of the axle and suspension).

 

After the dark brown dried, I wet the chassis again with warm water and sprinkled another layer of salt. Then I went with a lighter brown. I did this four times working my way down to a tan color.

 This picture shows after my third layer. It was saltier than a ballpark pretzel by that time.

2013-09-14133531.jpg?t=1379181371

 

After the last coat of tan dried, I took a stiff toothbrush and scrubbed off the salt. I got 95% off that way, but some salt was left in the nooks and crannies. It actually looked a lot like some small pebbles and dirt clods were stuck up in the recesses and I may choose to leave my model that way. However, just to see what would happen, I rinsed the assembly under warm water in the sink and that was all easily washed away.

 

Here's the final result. I don't think it came out half bad for a first effort. (sorry about the poor pictures, my camera wasn't cooperating with me).

 

2013-09-15204023.jpg

 

BTW, the paint I used was cheap craft paint. I've wanted to test using this in an airbrush for a long time now so this was a good opportunity. To thin it, I poured some Liquitex Airbrush medium in a small cup about 60% full. I then took a craft stick and added a small amount of craft paint to the mix until I got it about the consistency of 2% milk. I made it a little too thick at first, so I added some Testors Acryl universal thinner to one of the mixes as well, but it wasn't really necessary. All you really need is the Liquitex Airbrush Medium to thin it.

I wouldn't want to use this as a primary paint, but for weathering I think it works very nicely. One of the complaints about craft paint is that it isn't very durable on plastic. For weathering I think that is actually a benefit. Mud and dirt are not durable either. They are easily wiped or washed off, so if the weathering gets rubbed off on the high spots from handling, it actually makes it look more realistic. When I am finished with my weathering, I'll seal it all in with some Future mixed with Tamiya X-21 flattening agent. You could also mix some of that mixture in with the craft paint as you airbrush it to increase durability.

2013-09-14183754.jpg


3d scanner to go with your 3d printer

29 August 2013 - 11:25 AM

I want one of these!

 

http://www.wired.com...erbot-digitize/

 

 Forget about bubbles in your resin, pressure pots, rainy days ruining your castings.  Just scan and print.   B)


Cabover Kits- What's Available and Which One's the Best?

22 July 2013 - 05:27 AM

I don't think I've ever built a Tractor Trailer rig and was thinking about getting one. Hopefully someone will come out with a car carrier trailer which I've always wanted. (always wanted to build a car carrier full of Corvettes or classic Muscle Cars)

 

I've always liked the look of COE trucks, so I'm thinking about getting one of the four Cabover kits that AMT has.

 

Chevy Titan 90

 

Peterbilt 352

 

Kenworth K-123

 

White Freightliner

 

 

Which of these do you guys think might be the better kit?

 

I'm not too concerned with absolute accuracy, but which of these has the:

  • Best overall detail
  • Best fit
  • Least 'issues'.
  • Fewest glaring inaccuracies (stuff that would be real obvious)

 

Thanks for any advice you have!  :)