Help with a painting question

[Daniel Peterson]

As some of you are still refusing to believe, I did shoot color (Vintage Burgundy) on the Thunderbolt. I used MCW paint and it came straight from the can, leaving a half decent finish. I shot DupliColor clear (thanks Lyle; turns out I had the right stuff already) on it and it looks like I have a pretty good surface to start with when I get to polishing it.

The problem/question is that I failed to follow my original game plan regarding the side trim "spear". I was going to paint the white insert first, and mask it when painting the Burgundy. Time constraints and weather led me to skip right over it and go to the burgundy.

I decided to clear it, thinking that any overspray from subsequent paint work (semi-gloss black engine bay, side trim, etc) would be easy to polish off.

Now the question...when I spray the side trim, would the best approach be to shoot an enamel or lacquer white? I'm trying to avoid a lot of paint build up because of the eventual foiling I'll need to do, but the last thing I want is a pink spear.

Suggestions? (Other than going back and doing what I originally planned, that is. :wink: )

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

I don't think it really matters what type of paint you use Dan.

What I would do if I were you is spray a coat of white primer followed by a coat of white paint. The primer will cover the burgandy better than a straight coat of white would.

Just my devalued .02c Canadian.

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

Bob Downie or one of the other paint experts here might have a better idea, but I would use white lacquer. It should cover just fine. If you have access to Tamiya sprays, I would hit the area with some Tamiya white primer, then their gloss white.

[MonoPed]

I'd go with Marc's suggestion of Tamiya white primer and a white paint.

Not that I believe you painted a T-bolt or anything... 8)

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

I'd go with Marc's suggestion of Tamiya white primer and a white paint.

Not that I believe you painted a T-bolt or anything... 8)

Didn't he show us pics. of it on HHMB? Or am I dreaming?

[jhwelch5]

not to sure about spray cans but i do know that laquers shouldnt be sprayed over enamal because it sometimes causes the enamal paint to lift. i do automotive paintwork and laquar is a hotter paint than enamal. i repainted a couple of models that had been sitting around for a while already painted and decided to spray them with a laquar paint when i did the enamal had a reaction with the laquar and started to lift. but like i said im not to sure about spraycans.

[Billy Kingsley]

I've heard a coat of silver should stop bleed through...

[Zoom Zoom]

This may sound crazy from someone known for airbrushing, but if you don't airbrush that section it can be a real pain because a spray can is shooting a ton of paint on a really small area. Lots of chances for paint bleed through masking.

Since you already have a good clearcoated surface and a narrow area needing paint, you might attempt brush painting that area with a gloss acrylic or enamel (like a sign painter or pinstriper does). If you have a steady hand (or a well-masked area) and can apply a smooth layer of paint (one layer at a time, let dry before recoating if necessary), nobody will know how you applied it, especially after you've foiled the trim bordering it. Testors Acryl brush paints pretty darned well, and One Shot sign painters enamels brush paint beautifully. Neither should harm what's underneath nor cause any color bleed.

Normally I'd mask and shoot that area w/an airbrush. But if you're stuck w/only spray cans only you can choose what scares you the most, a spray can or brush painting that area. If you brush paint it w/acrylic you can always wipe it away while it's wet (or with Windex if you use Tamiya acrylic gloss, but it's not nearly as brush-friendly as Testors Acryl, and Acryl doesn't eat itself when you go over it a second/third time).

Good luck!