Zoom Zoom

You're new here. You're trying to sell us a product. You asked for comments. I'll oblige. I'm leaning toward protecting the members here first and foremost. You show a shiny cool Mondeo (Fusion) wagon and then an absolutely terrible looking print of said object. You asked for commentary. I've seen far, far superior work done by others. Both commercially and guys in my own local club. I've seen what they go through to achieve that quality over time. It does NOT happen overnight. I've seen examples of multiple blended colors printed of actual people that were scanned, and the prints look amazing, done at storefront shops in big cities. Those prints are light years better than your Mondeo wagon. Something here just isn't adding up. It reminds me of the people polluting Facebook using new accounts with borrowed images (not their own) and nothing to back up their "creations" and all "work" for fiver and all are attempt to sell people in FB groups vaporware.

IIRC 15" and they are the first iteration/generation of Fireball's rally 2 wheels. He has since completely updated/reconfigured the design, the original trim rings look more like a separate rim edge, not a trim ring. The new wheels are altogether better.

Honestly I think this kit has been cursed by Revell's small wheel syndrome. There are still kit designers that don't know that the tire retaining ring is a visible 1-1.5", sometimes more, sometimes less than the listed diameter which is where the tire's bead meets the wheel. Worse is most models look more natural by making them +1's. This kit has -1's Good thing Fireball knows this. If you want an OEM appearance and not teeny, tiny wheels with enormous sidewalls, it's either your parts box or the aftermarket that can fix it. Troubling is how many modelers just don't see, care or notice the discrepancy.

Fireball's are done in 14 and 15" sizes. Your choice. They are spectacular. I used Round2 parts pack redlines, they look more vivid than the photos depict. Honestly can't remember which spray chrome I used on the trim rings; Molotow or AK most likely, not sure I had Revell Chrom yet when this was build last summer. These are older original run Fireball Rally's, they've been completely revised. Need to order more.

IF he let the Revell Chrom thoroughly dry and then perhaps applied a good 2k clear w/a spray gun, it might work. I tested 2k clear (leftover after shooting a model car body) over spoons shot in Alclad chrome, Spaz Stix chrome, and Molotow chrome. All were applied 1-2 years (!) previous, and 2k barely affected the chrome effect. Better than Spaz Stix and Alclad clears applied over a different batch of spoons. Once I get some E7 S-02 clear I'll have a good idea what should work for me, and add Revell Chrom to the mix. One thing I'll test is how well secondary painting looks after the clear such as painting/washing grille textures and wheels that have both chrome/polished surfaces (like center caps, trim rings) and painted areas, such as painted wheels.

He should have used Alsa Easy Chrome products made for 1:1. Plenty of examples of it's excellence on automotive subjects. It's so $$ that modelers being cheapskates that they avoid it like the plague. Thus few examples of it available in photos of model car applications.

Mr. Black surfacer 1500 is beyond amazing. I tend to airbrush it mostly. It's my go-to black for when I mask/spray window trim etc. It's just so smooth, and I can adjust mixture airbrushing so it sprays lightly and doesn't flood the masked edges causing bleed-under. If I'm super worried about that I spray Tamiya acrylic flat or semigloss black with their acrylic thinner in light coats and any bleed-under can be removed w/a pointed swab and some alcohol.

In general Mr. Hobby spray primers are better than Tamiya. They have more options; the higher the number (like 1500) the smoother the primer. 500 grade is better for in-process body prep when in the sanding/puttying stage. Tamiya Fine white or gray are quite good, but Mr. Hobby 1200 and 1500 likely both go down smoother. Otherwise very similar. I use Mr. Hobby thinners for Tamiya paints and many non-Tamiya paints. Their thinners are nearly universal and work with at least some automotive lacquers made for hobbyists. Mr. Hobby jarred primers are quite good too, wide range, and thick. You use a lot of thinner to lay it down with an airbrush. I have a ton of Mr. Hobby primers for both airbrushing and quick rattle-can jobs.

Are you perhaps thinking of Randy Derr's amazing 1/12 '69 Sunoco Camaro he built in the early 90's? It's held up remarkably well and still looks perfectly immaculate. This was in March of 2022 when he invited me over to see his Greenwood Corvette that was nearing completion. Edit: Mark's model was an OOB 1/12 Camaro in orange w/white stripes. And stunning.

Nice work! I can only fathom how difficult for me building to this level in 1/43 would be, as I stick to larger scales...perhaps out of necessity 🤔🤫

Uh, that reply sure sounds like damning with faint praise to me. For someone who's known for amazing built models, it sure seems you are wearing your contempt for another builder, on his own thread showcasing his own excellence, right on your sleeve. Correct me if I'm wrong. If you ever pull this on the Facebook page I run for my local club, trust me...you'll be gone or put on post restrictions immediately.

Tamiya LP's; they mix/spray beautifully, easy (for me) to mix custom colors. Wish they were available in Tamiya's larger jars. Alclad metalizers/metallics, always preferred vs. Testors stuff. Always. Splash Paints colors. Good stuff. Use a really good primer under them. Metallics are scaled for scale models, not 1:1 scale. Vintage Cobra Colors paint. Same as above. Large jars. Perhaps overscale metallic flakes. Decanted Tamiya sprays. Except clear. It doesn't like being cut/thinned like the old formula. Mr. Hobby lacquer jar paints. Thicker than Tamiya LP's, not quite as smooth-flowing, need for thinner but still pretty amazing. Their #46 clear was my replacement for Tamiya TS-13 when it was off the market, but Tamiya LP-9 clear is even better IMHO.

Every generation has done some seriously dumb/questionable "stuff" to perfectly good cars that makes said car less useful and more "hey, look at MEEE!!!!". My Dad gave me grief for putting black out trim and home-made air dams on my first three cars. Not quite the same level as making the cars drive worse than intended, but to him it was useless "hey, look at MEEEE!!!" adornment. Whatever. I get why people do it, but we all have differing tastes and that changes over time. Some cars end up stupid. Some reactions from those that don't get it are...stupid. Lather, rinse, repeat. Easier to laugh it off than get mad. I drive a 3rd gen Miata as a weekend car, and they're popular with enthusiasts from age 16 to roughly 108 🤣

I think it's done just to get old men to shake their fists at clouds. FWIW, I'm in that demographic 😁

Hey Ken! Glad to hear you have more hobby time. I missed Spartanburg, have had a health setback so am on the mend for a bit and hated missing it. Hopefully back to full steam by Simpsonville in May. For those that don't know him, Ken is an amazing builder. I have the pleasure of being the caretaker of a few of his models.

In the early 2000's I got my exam/2 pairs of glasses at a local (fairly new in a wealthier suburb) Walmart with a competent optical department. The sunglasses are long gone, but the regular glasses are still in use. My distance vision has improved over time and the old glasses are best for watching my TV in my living room and are good for use as a potential backup. They're actually better than the glasses I got a few years ago from Warby Parker locally, though the sunglasses I got from Warby Parker are perfect. The Walmart pair have also outlasted several pairs from Lens Crafters. YMMV. Next time I'll use Costco.

In 1962 some AMT promos like this did indeed have separate hoods and engines. They used the same spring-like hood clips as kits. This is 99% likely to be a promo.

Stunning displays this year and as usual a ton of subjects that can be built in scale.

That's how I rattle can or airbrush bodies (been doing this for decades); I start by covering lower areas around grilles, rockers, wheel openings, and move upwards so that upper surfaces like decklid, hood, roof, pillars are done last. Color through clear.

Looks like it's from a '59 Pontiac Bonneville.

Here are some RADwood links: Hagerty RADwood Website CNET Jalopnik If you're into YouTube, there are lots of RADwood videos from the events around the country to see. It's a younger crowd than most typical car shows. We're all talking about how we keep the younger generations interested in cars and model cars, they're actually very interested in cars. Especially because of stuff they've seen in video games. Anything to keep the car passion alive...

I went to RADwood Atlanta last year riding shotgun in a buddy's 3.4 liter converted Fiero. It's not just stock OEM cars, it's also period-correct cars from the era. If the build is based on a car/truck from 1980-1999, it's good. So if it's a wild pro-street car from that era, go for it. Crazy S10 or Ford Ranger mini truck ideas? Cool! That Revell Mk. VII pro-street just got reissued, great subject for the theme. There were several safari-style Porsche 911's there built by Leh Keen. He drifted his personal car around the track at Lanier Raceplex...slowly LOL. Got a period-correct SCCA racer or LeMons racer idea? Go for it. There are so many potential kit subjects out there, and some of them are really nice. Got a T-Bird Super Coupe kit? There are some new, fresh anniversary decals out there for them. There are a lot of '80's and '90's era NASCAR subjects. RADwood in NC was at Hendricks Motorsports Complex this past summer.

The ACME Southern Nationals had a RADwood theme in 2022, it was a very popular theme with a lot of cool models built for it. So many kits available either current or vintage and you can pick a lot of the vintage issues up from show vendors pretty dang cheap, even sometimes sealed for less than Ollie's current prices.

Probably the gap is to get your hands in there easily as I'm sure it's a heavy hood.

Definitely old school, but the quality is second to none. ReplMinCoMd@aol.com 317 Roosevelt Ave Glen Burnie MD 21061 410-768-3648