impcon Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 For anyone looking to add a vinyl roof to a car that doesn't have one, I suspect that the worst part of a project like that is applying the very thin and fine styrene strips to make up the vinyl top stainless trim on the C pillars and across the upper deck beneath the rear glass. It's delicate work, especially when the piece below the rear glass has multiple curves in it so that it follows the curvature of the rear window like it should. I am using .020 x .020 Evergreen stripping for my moldings as that seems to be almost a perfect match for the drip rail moldings above the doors. I've laid a piece of Scotch Magic Tape across the rear deck and cut it to the desired shape but I can use some advice as to how to neatly apply the styrene strips in their right place along the tape without making a mess with glue. I was thinking of using CA glue and starting in the center of the deck and working slowly out wards to get the trim where it should be, using the tape as a guide out wards to the C pillars. But what method is best used to apply the glue so that the strips solidly are held in place? I'm certainly open to any suggestions here as the vinyl top is a new thing for me. Plans are to either use the masking tape idea for the simulated vinyl look or the adhesive spray cement method. My concern with the masking tape is the thickness of the product as it is thicker than the styrene stripping is. I question how long it will remain adhered to the model. I'd be using 3M auto body tape, by the way. Again, any advice is appreciated. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I would use liquid glue like Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement or Tenax7. With crazy glue, you don't have time to make adjustments if needed. I would also mark the body with a permanent marker for a guide for the trim. The tape could have the potential to make a mess if glue gets to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) Get yourself a touch-n-flow from flex-I-file. This is the best thing for this type of work. Edited January 20, 2015 by Mike Chernecki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) A few thoughts.... first, be sure to add this trim prior to painting the body. Elementary to most, but I know someone who tried this, so I mention it. As others said, trace out your lines with either a permanent marker or I use a Stabillo pencil, which is a draftsman's pencil made to draw on mylar, so it's perfect for plastic. Beware of the permanent marker, I've had that come through paint. Glue - I like CAs, which come in a variety of thicknesses and drying times. Bob Smith Enterprises makes the ones you see in hobby shops with their names on it. I use the thickest (I believe it's a purple cap). Curves - Plan your trim like on the 1:1 car. If there is multiple pieces, copy this and it will be easier. There are curves and corners yo can't make, so you'll have to cut there and make it appear to be one piece with putty etc. One thing I do when adding trim that needs to flex, is to 'play' with the piece of Evergreen, flexing it so it's not so rigid any more. A bit of friction warmth won't hurt either. Gluing - I put a bit of my thick CA glue on a surface and apply it to the trim pieces with a tooth pick. I do this little by little, incrementally working the trim across the area. Glue a straight piece, hold it in place until it dries. bend your rod to go around a curve, dab a bit of cement onto that portion, then hold in place... and follow that procedure along your piece. You will get some excess glue on the body, don't worry, sand that later. The thick CA should fill some of the little gaps that will appear due to the difference between your flat trim piece and contour on the body. That's a good thing. The gap on the inside will get covered with the masking tape you use for the top. Top material - You want to use a wide masking tape, wide enough to cover the roof up to the seams. You will need to know how the seams look on the 1:1 car. They can be different. And check a few examples, for instance the vinyl top on my 1:1 Plymouth Scamp had been replaced and had the seam in a different place than the stock car. I've never had an issue with tape coming off with aging. Masking tape seems to dry stuck firmly than peeling off. I find that happens when I leave tape on stuff too long! Look at different tapes for a surface pattern that looks like a vinyl top. Some are smoother than others. Sometimes the cheapest stuff has the coolest pattern. I use these for seat cushions as well. Never had one peel off. Hope this helps! Edited January 21, 2015 by Tom Geiger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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