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I'm putting together a revell 54 chevy panel custom. Right now I'm working on cleaning up the body. There are a bunch of mold lines to get rid of plus I'm removing the factory style rain drip rails that were molded in. who here has built this truck? Do you have any tips for me remember I'm just starting to learn how to add extra details. When I get to the engine I'm using the street version 409. It will probably take me a long time to get things right and I'm sure I'll be asking a ton of questions.

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Thanks Dave..

The fender skirts have an extra piece of styrene laminated on the bottom half to allow for

the curvature of the skirt. This was done with making a pattern first out of

those subscription cards that fall out of magazines. After making the skirts

I glued thin styrene tabs on them and glued them on from the inside.

I didn't paint or prime them separately because there has to be a seam when installed.

Mine are the flush mounted type as aposed to bubble type skirts that cover the wheel well

all together.

James aka Joker

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Today I've have been continuing to prep the body I've been holding off doing anything until I buy a compressor for my air brush. IMG040.jpg this is the direction I'm thinking of going. Using those rims and tires and putting a 235ci. With a different intake dual or trip carbs? I'm nervous about doing that because it will be the first time I hacked up a frame.

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Not a whole bunch done pretty much prepping parts still while I wait for some $$ & time to grab my air compressor. I did do a little frame work IMG047.jpg I dremmeled a tiny bit off the front axle so the tires sit better in the frame. Removed the molded in gas tank. I need to figure out my crooked frame. I also want to drop the rear like I did my front.

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Now for some reason I can't post two pics in one message. I'm in need of suggestions on how best to attack my hood problem? IMG048.jpg I was thinking of just using filler for the 2 holes where the hood meets the cowl but I'm clueless on how to attack the gap issue on the right hand side?

I have been thinking of how one could make a frame rack like the ones we use at my job. In my opinion working on models is harder then the real thing lol.

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Dave..I kept the fire wall holes..the only thing I did do was

make the opening smaller so that the hood hindges would work.

As far as the side hood gap..good ol' styrene will work.

Place the hood on the car and you can see how much styrene

needed to fill up the huge hindge openings.

Keep up the good work

DSCN1358-vi.jpg

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I got my new toy today an air compressor for my air brush. I just have to say WOW I'll never use spray paint again!!! I'll only hand paint tiny details from now on. I got it home and I was like a little kid I couldn't wait to paint something. Sadly the only thing I had ready for paint was my frame. Since it's a daily diver type of build I went with flat black IMG049-1.jpg I have a few things I need to learn with my badger 200 but over all it's great.

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I have also been working on the engine. I have most of it assembled but not detailed with wires and such IMG050-1.jpg which leads me to a question the wire for the alt where should that lead to? I know from the battery ground goes to the frame and positive leads to the starter but wouldn't the alternator also run to the battery?

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I'm in need of suggestions on how best to attack my hood problem? I was thinking of just using filler for the 2 holes where the hood meets the cowl but I'm clueless on how to attack the gap issue on the right hand side?

Looking at the pic it also looks like the hood is too long? Is that correct or is it just a gap on the side? I would get some sheet styrene and fill the cowl holes with that. Filling the whole gap with putty is asking for trouble down the line. If your gap on the side is your only issue, use some very thin sheet styrene and add plastic strips down the length of the hood edge. I like using Tenax or Plastruct liquid glues for this because it isn't adding any material to the fix, merely welding the plastic and then evaporating. Keep adding styrene until the hood is now too wide for the opening then slowly sand away the added styrene until it fits properly. I just did this recently for the optional hood on the AMT 49 Ford. It worked like a champ.

Edited by Jantrix
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Well the picture of the hood doesn't show what is going on properly. As you can see there is the two gaps where the hinges are the hood lines up in the front but the hood gap gets bigger the farther you go back from the front it rises up and then in the picture you see the gap on the right side.

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Hey guys I need your opinion what would be a good color to paint my deliver? I have an idea but not sure if it's a good idea I was thinking of painting the top half white and then below the belt line I would have some other color? What do you guys think?

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Sorry I've been busy so not much to report . I feel a little silly about the frame issue; I was way over thinking things, all it took was two fingers and some light pressure to get it straight.

I'm waiting for my pre-wired magneto to show up so I can finish up the engine. I'm still not real happy with the five blade fan that came in the kit. Thinking of finding a different one. I'm heading to my first M.C.C.M meeting tonight so I'm sure I'll get great tips from a model car club that has been around for 30 years.

By the way I decided to go with a metallic blue body color. I'm also kicking around the idea of making script decals of my business Isle detail it! L.L.C on the sides. Testor makes a program that you can print your own decals right? Do you need special ink for that?

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Here is a little progress

Before IMG048-1-1.jpgand afterIMG061-1.jpg I still have to add filler and shape. I know it may not seem like much to you pros but I'm pretty proud of my first time trying my hand at filling a gap. I'll have more pictures this weekend I keep finding things I did that I don't like and going back and fixing them.

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Here are a few progress pictures of what I have been doing I finally got the engine detailed as much as I like. I found a driveshaft that looks better then the one that comes with the kit. The frame is straight and I got the rearend to sit closer to the body. I've cut the rear door open I guess it is on to the interior. Well thank you all for watching my post there should be more to report soon

IMG065.jpgIMG066.jpgIMG063.jpg

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