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modelfink

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About modelfink

  • Birthday 07/18/1973

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVoU7nzEBSxvHvXYIjRgp8g

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  • Full Name
    Travis Medford

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  1. That's awesome Tim! I'll have to check out that issue
  2. Thanks for your interest Tim. I got distracted with other projects. I'll get back to it soon
  3. Thanks Tim! I'm excited to see yours. Since this is supposed to be a "quick and fun" project, I didn't fool with lots of engineering of the rear suspension. Depending on the rear slick you are using, the Ala Kart coil springs were the perfect height for the AMT dragmaster slicks. I'm hoping to have it done in time for the show in Atlanta, you should bring yours and we can line em up together!
  4. AN UPDATE! After a couple years away from the bench I'm back on this project and feeling pretty good about it! Since I last posted I sorted out all the suspension components. Up front I'm using the dropped tube axle from the Revell 32 which required a significant blocking of the leaf spring to get the ride height I wanted. I built some front shocks and a tie rod out of styrene. Split wishbones are from the Revell 29 Ford. I made some brackets to attach the front bones and rear ladder bars. Out back the Ford 9 inch is supported by coil springs from the parts box and shocks from the AMT 41 Willys with ladder bars from the Revell SW&C Willys. I replaced the super long tail on the Y block trans with a 4 speed from a mid 60s Mustang Gt kit. (Thanks Dennis) and cut down the long oil filter to clear the steering box. I'm really happy with the ride height and how everything is fitting together.
  5. Unfortunately it has been sitting dormant, and I have not sat at the modeling bench for some time. But your interest has inspired me to dust it off and get it done!
  6. VERY nice! I really love this build. You nailed it
  7. cool project!! Your modifications are looking great. Another way to lower the front is to make relief cuts in the top and bottom of the rails and "sweep" the front of the frame in a gradual way to achieve the same result. Also, the Revell 32 frame sits much lower in the front when compared side by side to the Revell 29 frames.
  8. The model Master Aluminum metalizer paints are pretty good. Maybe try achieving the finish before stripping the chrome first, maybe try a dull clear coat. Then strip the chrome if that doesn't work. I'm sure there are lots of options, but I don't have an airbrush so, I'm by no means an authority on scale finishes.
  9. I wouldn't want to leave the line without a panhard bar under me!
  10. I made a panhard bar by using one of the rear trailing arms from the 57 Ford gasser kit and "welded" it to the front of the rear end. The other end will be attached to the frame in final assembly. I also cut the axles to accept the ladder bars and mocked them up. They will be shortened and mounted to the same bracket the front bones are mounted to, so I'll need to figure out the front end placement before finalizing the ladder bars. The radiator from the AMT Willys gasser was a great fit in the 32 grill shell. I just needed to sand the front to a desired thickness to make it appear recessed into the shell.
  11. Thanks Tim, yes, I have seen 30 and 31 coupes built in the same style. I think they were pretty common until the Willys and Anglias came on to the scene. I'm sure your build will be outstanding! (provided the 30 coupe ever gets back into production)
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