Dave G.
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Posts posted by Dave G.
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23 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:
Your suggestion to store the Molotow pens in a plastic sandwich bag or freezer bag, David is a sound idea and I shall try that. My Molotows are stored vertically upright, with tip and cap to the TOP........ other members seem to have good results with tip and cap to the BOTTOM.......
David
Yes, mine are laying down and they get a periodic shake when not in use. Once I get past the chrome on a particular build it may be weeks before I do chrome again ( I'm an unbelievably slow build, my speedy build days were a very long time ago), so once a week or so I just shake them up. Hopefully this idea at least helps the cause.
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Don't know if this is going to help but while my Molotows are idle I have them rolled up tight in a plastic sandwich bag. My thought is it will at least be an air restricted environment if not air tight.
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I've just been leaving them around any old way and shake them up now and then. I just started with Molotow though ( been using Metalizer) and have to say the results were reasonably impressive. In some spots it was silvery till turned to a different light direction and then for some things you may want a chrome trim look, it was almost too chrome. Convenient for now. I'd try spraying it though, I haven't found the perfect chrome yet, sprayed. I'd like to build a 59 Galaxy if I ever find one and that whole lower section of the rear quarter is chrome as I recall. A perfect candidate to be sprayed. I generally used the buffing Metalizers in the past for something like that. So, well it's a dream right now cause I don't have the Galaxy yet but I have 2mm Molotow lol. Most of my painted chrome is windows and side molding etc, common stuff.
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4 hours ago, espo said:
I don't want to upset anyone, but my personal favorite of the two is the forty. I have always wanted to use the fender portion of the '40 Ford coupe on the sedan body. I know trying to align the '39 grill in the fenders and the hood and cowl offers some real challenges Has anyone here tried using the '40 fenders instead ?
No I haven't tried that espo. Why do you think the coupe fenders might be better ? I've built several of each over the years but too, several were cut down into modified circle track cars. I just assumed the two fender sets were the same. My favorite in stock or street and strip car is the sedan by a fair margin over the coupe though. I like both the 39 and 40 versions of each but the 39 has a couple of elements that are incorrect ( the dash is wrong for a 39 but correct for the 40 and 39 wiper blades were mounted at the top of the windshield not along the cowl. And the 39 had a floor shift so the column shift is incorrect in the kit, though they do give you a chrome stick for the floor that needs paint). This last one I built as a 39, copying one I built as a kid in dark green and tan interior. I think if I built a coupe right now it would be the Revell/Monogram 40 standard built bone stock maybe in dark blue, although black might be appealing...
By the way, the 40 hood fits the sedan body cowl better than the 39 hood does too. But it's incorrect out front in both profile for a 39 and to fit the 39 grill.
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If I'm correct and this kit is the same as my 39/40 kit was then your next fit problem will be the 39 hood to cowl. Might as well check that now. I never got mine 100% there but it is acceptable for my needs. I did mine as part of a build off with another guy from the forum building the same kit as a 39 and his 39 hood was the same as mine. I'd like to eventually build another one too and refine a couple of points a bit further .
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2 hours ago, Steamboat said:
I have definitely noticed it. Mine is about 2 years old. Does anyone know how to do a refill?
Here is a video or url, whichever loads: https://youtu.be/_d1VEx2pkVA
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8 minutes ago, ratherbefishin said:
Yes, I did that first, had the same issue and then put in the interior to see if it might make a difference. That’s what I thought initially.
Then I wonder if the right side is in a pinch somehow and lifting the left side off. If the body is in contact with the running board though, then it's the fenders as the post above this one indicates.
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I know you said the interior clears ok but did you try fitting the body to the fenders before the interior tub went in ? It really looks like the whole left side is sitting up off the fender assembly.
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2 hours ago, ratherbefishin said:
Tried some more sanding, nada. The fenders do have the little protrusions on the top and the body does fit but then jus rises up unless pressed into place.
I think I do near some “heat”. So, like a hairdryer? Just hold it in place and apply heat? How do I do this?
You don't want to listen to me on that topic because I'm nuts lol, and go after the offending spot with a charcoal grill lighter or candle. You might want to be more conservative and follow someone else's lead there, some folks like a hot water soak for instance.. I've never had much luck with a hair dryer, maybe someone else has. I've just been using an actual flame for 60 years but I can't say I never wrecked anything either.
I wonder if you set those fenders on the frame if you can see where they are tweaked. Assuming it's them and not the body ( but it looks like the fenders from the photos).
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Oops, I think it says to remove that cross support between the rear fenders. Pretty sure I removed it and had no trouble with the fit.
Edit: Well, it's not in the instructions, it may have been embossed on the piece itself unless I'm thinking of another kit lol !
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I think the 39/40 gasser kit built stock shares the same body/fender parts. I just built one as a 39 back in Sept and it went together well. To me from the photos, it appears your fender assembly is warped. Mine fit well enough that I just literally tacked the assemblies together with a few well placed drops of glue in case I want to pop it apart at a later date for what ever reason. When I was a kid I cann't tell you how many of these sedan kits I built, always a fan lol ! But I remember one or two not quite as bad as yours but similar. I just glued it and weighted it till dry, as well as I can recall. As long as the seam lines mated I was happy, then sliced any openings for the bumper brackets as needed. They always turned out acceptable to me. A couple I turned into stock cars though, so those got all cut up and cut down anyway, very cool looking I might add, because you expect to see coupes done up as stock cars.. Just sayin.
Yours might be warped enough you may need to get a little heat involved.
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On your acrylic comment, you would get along with Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner, it pretty much acts like solvent paints but cleans up like acrylics. It's really a hybrid of some kind, more like lacquer or enamel than water based acrylic. Along the way sometime grab a bottle and give it a try, you will see what I mean for yourself. However for N scale you're on the right track, you will need lacquer thinner if you find it needs to be thinner after decanting. And on decanting, give the paint a few minutes to out gas propellant before spraying.
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2 hours ago, robertw said:
Many decades ago (back when plastic was first discovered) I bought a Badger airbrush and since then I've worked my way up through the Badger line, single action, double action, gravity feed, siphon feed but despite having tried a couple of other airbrush makes I still find myself grabbing the Badger 200 for the majority of my painting. Airbrushes are a very personal choice. If you can it's best to try a few different makes and try to stay with well known hobby brushes and you shouldn't be to disappointed in what you end up with.
For several years I had a hobby compressor that was noisy and only had two choices on/off. I began to hear good things about Iwata so bought a Smart Jet. It wasn't cheap but I don't regret my purchase, small, very quiet and you can ajust the psi. My only regret was not getting one with the attached tank but just getting the one I have took a lot of hunting. Don't go cheap on a harware store style no-name, a good compressor will last you for decades.
You can hook your existing compressor to a portable tank for about $50 and get air storage of anything from a couple gallons to 10 or even 15. Or not hook it up and use it as is. You could run full pressure right through the tank and mount your regulator at the spray booth fwiw. Just sayin, if you want a tank add a tank.
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On 1/10/2020 at 4:37 AM, oPROJECTMAYHEMo said:
The Paasche airbrushes i can find here on Amazon are
Anyone have experience with these?
At the same site they show the H as well for E53 or 55. Just fwiw. You just have to search Paasche siphon is all.
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If all you want is a nicer finish on small parts you can just spray them all with spray cans while still on the parts trees. Then touch up with a brush when you pull them off the trees if needed. Or you can just thin your brush paints about 15-20% and continue to brush them. The little bit of thinner will help leveling and flow out, you would be hard pressed to know they weren't sprayed.
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Well Don Yost who builds and paints models both commercially and for contests, has won more contests than most of us would ever even enter uses both the Paasche H and the Paasche starter brush which is the H design made from cheaper materials. He has a bigger shop for larger volumes of painting and probably a larger compressor than most of us since he uses the large needle ( the medium is sufficient for our needs) but those are the brushes he uses exclusively to get his award winning finishes from. Follow the master painter, you could do worse and you don't need anything different. That starter set is all of $25 if you over pay for it. But you will need a compressor sooner than later. And the H would be a lifetime investment.
I own an H set I use quite a bit. My longest term brush ( 45 years so far) and most used because it naturally fits my hand is the Badger 200. And I have a double action brush I rarely use for car models.
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Just me ( barring getting that frame out of there, it might pop out easier than you think depending what glue and how much was used) but I'd spray the floor pans with MM Metallizer aluminum plate buffing, then brush the frame with Stynylrez black primer, and finally spray a single pass of Metalizer clear on it all. That will give you a satin finish. The remaining chassis parts can be sprayed with Stynylrez and also clear coated.
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If you didn't go nuts with glue maybe you can still pop the chassis back out of there.
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Stynylrez, it's pretty near all I use anymore. Try it, you won't regret it.
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2 hours ago, Force said:
Of course the 31 spline axle is stronger but for street use the 28 spline is strong enough, and I'll bet the aftermarket axles available now are stronger than the old stock parts.
The parts availabillity for the 9 inch axle was far better than for the 8 inch and that may be why so many used it even tho' they didn't need the strength.Oh very true Force, won't deny that.
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On 1/29/2020 at 11:28 AM, Force said:
On a light 30's hot rod with street tires you woun't get much grip, so it's not that big of a problem...on a race car with racing slicks and a prepaired track it's another thing.
But the 9 inch axle is heavier than the 8 inch and you want the unsprung weight to be as low as possible, and the aftermarket stuff available for the 8 inch nowadays is stronger than the stock parts and will hold up at least as good as a 28 spline 9 inch axle if not better.
It was another thing years ago when there wasn't much for the 8 inch axle available on the market and you had to do with stock parts and an axle taken out of a junk car, today you can buy everything new and get the axle as you want.Ya the 28 spline axles were the weak link in the 9", at least with slicks. I raced a 67 big block Mustang with slicks and it didn't take long to first twist the splines slightly, then snap the axle. I upgraded the the posi section from detroit locker with 28 splines to the posi with 31 splines and that ended that particular problem.
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Course depends which 9" you want to represent but generally speaking the 49 and 50 rear ends are close enough in modelling them. I'm building an AMT 49 now and using the stock rear axle for a street and strip type car. The most notably different 9" is one where the carrier is a nodular iron unit used with 427 Mustangs and such. Besides the nearly indestructible material it also had double webs in the front of the housing with a visible N at the top. Several differences internally that wouldn't matter in a styrene model of course.
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You could also get a nailhead from an AMT 40 Ford coupe that has a couple different induction options. So from the 40 Ford sedan you can get a nice Olds engine or from the coupe a Buick.
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I built one of those when I was a kid back around 1962 or so and I'm thinking I put in an Olds engine from the AMT 40 Ford sedan. If not I still think it would look nice in there and be period to your year range. It has options of blower, injection or carbs. My choice would be three 2bbl, it was just like the thing to do in that era. I think if I remember right you want a rear sump engine/oil pan for correct clearance to the front axle . I could be wrong, 1960's is a long time ago lol !
A friend of mine back in the mid 60's had a 1/1 1959 and pulled out the 6 and put in a Y block with 3 strombergs on it, small cam, dual exhaust. It may not be much today but back then it seemed like it pulled your sox off with 3:70 gears. Also very period of course but too common if you want something really different. Sounded good too, only warmed over Y blocks have that particular sound.
Molotow pens
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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I think if I was going to do the chrome laden nose of a 50's car I would spray it. They say the Molotow chrome sprayed results are even better than from the pen. But then again I guess if you go to the trouble of getting Molotow into an airbrush then you might at that point consider the Alclad. Just depends which look you prefer, either can do a good job....
I haven't cleared my Molotow chrome so can't comment on that. I know it takes very little sealer on MM Metalizer to just cover it and any more and you might as well forget the metal look. You can wreck the look real easy clear coating, with Molotow I'd rather have to put on another coat than risk it personally. Best I can say.