Dave G.
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Posts posted by Dave G.
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49 minutes ago, Exotics_Builder said:
I've been thinking of trying, but wasn't sure if it would work with the lacquer paints (Zero, Tamiya, Testor, Cobra Color, Splash, Gravity) that I use for automotive.
My experience with hot lacquers over Stynylrez is as mentioned to apply light coats at least initially. If you go too wet too quickly I personally have experienced some light sand scratch swelling. But even then just let dry, lightly scuff and reshoot a lighter coat and all has been well. I doubt the hobby lacquers would do that. I've had no issue with Tamiya acrylic thinned with lacquer thinner either. Nor with enamels. The sand scratch swell I got was sporadic and not heavy fwiw. Enamels go on fine thinned with enamel reducer, Mineral Spirits or lacquer thinner, no issue at all. No issue with lacquer over craft paints either with Stynylrez primer.
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The orange tube Testors isn't as aggressive as it once was, I bet you can get that windshield out fine. Then sand and polish as mentioned. As a final step you could dip it into some Pledge Floor care if you have that on hand.
I glue my clear parts in with Testors black bottle glue made for clear parts ( be careful because they have a black bottle for regular parts that is stronger than orange tube, don't mistake that for clear parts glue).. In my experience it grips better than plain white glue to plastic parts but has a similar look if a bit thicker.
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I used Krylon primer years ago but people have said they changed the formula since then. The light grey went on thinnest. I don't recall any problems but if the formula has changed then all bets are off.
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Ps is for poly-carbonate plastic, usually clear and flexible like on RC cars. And honestly that's all I know about it.
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Mostly I just prime, except to fix the obvious things first of course. I used to scuff with pads 400-600ish grit but not since the multi day stripping I experienced when I decided to change colors mid build. Sheesh, Stynylrez primer sticks well without scuffing, never had anything lift.
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I'm with Snake on that, my exact thought actually.
If you do want to brush it you thin the paint and do it in a couple of coats and that very much helps lose the brush marks. What you thin with depends on the paint used.
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12 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
Tried a few combinations distilled water, washer fluid and laquer thinner but not alchohol. To be brief best result I had was windshield washer fluid.
Washer fluid is about 40% methyl alcohol ( or methanol ), water and a touch of detergent. Some craft acrylics like that alcohol, others ipa, others no alcohol. What washer fluid doesn't have is retarder in it and that greatly aids in fighting tip dry. Just sayin
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2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
Hobby Lobby sells Deco Art, Folk Art, Anita's craft paints. I wonder really what the difference is. Is one better the other?? I guess the best test would be to try all three if one was so inclined.
And after trying different thinner concoctions I wonder if the KISS method is best. Heck, plain water, maybe distilled would work. Seems like the washer fluid is used a lot, maybe most. I don't know how if lacquer thinner reacts.
I guess break out the spoons and mix and shoot away!!
Mike, I tried to PM you don't know if you got it. Hope so, it's about 5 paragraphs long lol !
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1 hour ago, SCRWDRVR said:
I had one like peteski said "curdle" when I added the alcohol. I really like the color base you get with them and they are cheap. I'm getting the feeling I'm going to have to test each paint I get to see what I should use to reduce it rather than having a universal reducer.
DecoArt will curdle or even gel up depending on the alcohol type and quantity. Straight alcohol isn't the answer with craft paints anyway though.
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18 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Repainted it and it looks better but it seems after putting several coats on it the spots where I sanded off the emblems are visable. I sure don't think I saw it before I added the additional coats. It seems I just can't win?.
Also, I still don't think I'm getting the thinning part down yet, oh well.
I may pm you tomorrow rather than carry on here.
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I only ever dry scuff acrylics fwiw, usually with steel wool.
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24 minutes ago, LDO said:
I think this search might be more trouble than it’s worth. The guy at MCW said I would need to get info on the color. That makes perfect sense, but it would be a lot less trouble to mix something myself and shoot for a match with the box art.
I see, sorry about that.
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13 hours ago, LDO said:
I didn’t see Kenwood blue at MCW. It’s not a color for something for something wildly popular like a factory 1969 Camaro color, but I saw another seller with two shades of blue for a 1930s Bugatti “tank” race car. I’ll have to keep looking.
If no one sells a good match, it’s not the end of the world. It means no one can say mine is inaccurate. Pretty much.
Actually Contact MCW, he will mix anything not just what you see in the listing. And once he mixes it he will add that to his listings.
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I would think out in Ohio there would be several places to order paints from without shipping half way across the country.
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2 hours ago, peteski said:
If you form (bend) the siphon tube like this, you can get very last drop of paint out of your Badger 200 bottom feed airbrush. Yes, the tube touches the bottom of the jar. This has worked for me for over 30 years. The black "bonnet" at the end of the tube is just some very fine nylon screen I have there to filter out any crud from the paint. It does not affect the ability to suck up the paint from the bottom.
I like the screen.
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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:
Gotta agree with you on the paint next day (or later). I've learned to have the hair dryer ready with acrylic paint, seems to level it quicker.
And another question? After the craft paint is dry and before clearing, what do you do about tiny imperfections before clearing. Fine grit sandpaper, steel wool??
Steel wool very lightly and if the color shifts on you just shoot another coat. Not all colors shift though but some do. I did a 39 Ford that had a big goober on that long roof and had to literally scuff it out, shot two more color coats, cleared is with 4 coats of Tamiya acrylic clear gloss. And that doesn't look too heavy at all. Just polished it with tooth paste then Formula 1 Scratch out. Looks good. That was craft paint over black Stynylrez. Funny color, the color didn't pop till the clear coat, just had to hang in there till the end.
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17 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Forgot another question. How long to dry before using the 0000? Sorry for all the questions.
You will know. If you force dry a bit with a dehydrator or warm air gun/hair dryer maybe 30 minutes. I like to give it a couple hours or shoot the stuff in the evening, scuff the next day. But I've pushed that time frame many times with no ill effect. Overall I don't rush much of anything though lol. It doesn't hurt a thing to prime today put on color tomorrow. You will get a feel for it quickly.
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35 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
So the primer doesn't show any scratches after using the steel wool? I'll be using my new Proton 275 airbrush, .3 tip.
No scratches with 000 or 0000, not from scuffing no.. It may show body work scratches if they weren't dealt with ( may not too) since this stuff designed to let details show through, so it really snuggles into things tight. But between Stynylrez and craft paint I'm very pleased with the results.
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5 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
So sorry about your wife Dave, thats very sad. My wife now of 45 years (been together 47) loves me to model, even picked out a model for me to build yesterday (the Drag 91 Mustang) at HL. Keeps me occupied while she cross-stiches.
Good post , my 2 space heaters get the temp up to around 60 in my garage when the starting temp is around 45 degrees.
Thanks Mike. Ya she just passed Dec 20th, heart attack and gone in less than 3 minutes or so at 1:15am. And so we go on, ya never dreampt nor did anyone else that she would go before myself, after all I'm the one who took all the ambulance rides ! But danged if she didn't beat me home. Praise God she knew the Lord and we know where she is ( absent from the body is to be present with the Lord for those who know Him, 2 Corinthians 5:8).
So space heaters. Well from your latest photos it looks like it all works for you Mike !
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19 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Thanks Dave, I'm gonna get some ordered and give it a try. Good idea on the black and white.Your use of the word "fuzzy" is a great description of what I call grainy.
You can't spray this stuff wrong. And as I said if by chance you see a little fuzziness a little buffing with steel wool brings it to a luster. And just be sure it's mixed up good in the bottle if it's been sitting around. The reason I hit on thinning it a little was because of shooting it through a .25 tip. And while Badger says it needs no thinning but if in certain circumstances you want to, then use water, I find LT does significantly better than water. Just me maybe. A .25 tip is certainly a certain circumstance. Plenty of guy in the FSM forums shoot the stuff with .35 or .4 though. I'm the odd ball there lol. I mostly shoot it through my Paasche H with #3 ( it's .6 if I remember right) tip but I do use that Badger and .25.
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13 hours ago, steveracer said:
This topic may calm my new normal here at the steveracer ranch.
My wife kicked my painting operation out of the basement. Even though I have a MicroMark spray booth vented outside, she can't stand the fumes and things turned ugly.
So I am gonna move the booth out to my non-attached garage, which has some heat, and can get to maybe 45 degrees or so after some time.
If I heat the model, some paint, use the booth and perhaps get a food dehydrator out there to set the model in, I should be ok?
I will also move the compressor and air brushes out there, because I was really afraid of the metalizer paint smell in the house.
Do you think I will be successful, and stay married this way?
Right now today I shoot more acrylics than solvent paints anyway. In either case I'd prefer to see 55-60f as a low side. Not that you can't paint at 45 but it's completely more relaxed up nearer 60 from several angles, imo. But a space heater can heat your immediate work area to at least that from 45 deg fairly easy I would think. The paint nor the plastic surface know the rest of the garage is only 45.
Every time I see one of these posts where the wife is intolerant of the hubbys paint project I'm curious if she gives the same regard to acetone soaks of her own fingers and lacquer paint jobs of their nails ! Often there are legit concerns though, like she has asthma. Fortunately my wife and I may have had some mountains not worth climbing but my hobby and painting weren't among them. She supported it in fact. I was a very blessed man for 47 years and I know it, she just beat me home to be with the Lord.
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10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
OK now Dave, so like the Badger Stynylrez primer and with good results, right?? I see it comes in several colors and sizes. Looks like around $4.20 (spraygunner.com) for 2 oz, $10.00 for 4 oz.
Most people who try it end up really liking it. Personally I just keep black and white and mix any shade of grey I want from those. Just make sure you mix it good is all, if it sits around it settles and can't really see it through the bottle. Shake it up it looks mixed but put a Badger mixer in there and you find glop on the bottom, just mix it back in. It's not a problem in the end. Even if it comes out a little fuzzy some fine steel wool buffs it to a luster. The lacquer thinner to me puts it down great with a hard surface finish. Just sayin, all you can do is try it. Most people who do stick with it. Clean your airbrush good while the Styn is still wet.
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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:
It was primed with Krylon and seemed smooth enough, but I did lightly wet sand it with 3000. I'm wondering if I need to airbrush primer instead of rattle can, but what would be a good primer if airbrushed??
Incidently, I sprayed the dashboard not primed, probably not best thing to do, but the paint dried perfectly smooth, actually it looked like unpainted black styrene ? Like I have said, I'm a WIP?
I can only say what I use under most paints these days. Badger Stynylrez primer and I cut that maybe 10-20% with lacquer thinner. Even 25%. Stynylrez is a primer sealer, actually water based but I hit on the lacquer thinner tip in another forum. With that in it it flows out glass smooth. It can be sprayed straight from the bottle though, it's a poly acrylic primer sealer. That's what I use under craft paints as well. Under any acrylic and under enamel. Base coating with lacquer is still up in the air using that primer, seems to go fine but have had questionable spots here and there. But that's not a big deal because I rarely use hot lacquer on models anyway. I've been on a path somewhat aligned with MCW for hard to match colors but he now offers enamel, so that is probably the end of my lacquer days all together except for a nail polish adventure here and there. LA Colors is dirt cheap and they have a dead ringer for some old Ford engine green. That said I can easily nail it with craft paints too. so I'll stop rambling now.
Protecting paint
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by Dave G.
Well all that depends on what type of paint you used and the type of wash you want to use. I recently brush painted an engine with craft paint over stynylrez primer and did oil wash onto it directly with no clear coat. When I do clear an engine I use either the lacquer used on the old Model Master Metalizer paints or I mix a concoction of Liquitex varnishes which are available in matt, satin and gloss. But I think this engine I will leave as is, which is often the case for me. Once it's in the chassis it will never be touched again only by eye sight lol ! So what is there really to protect it from ?
It was actually oil based stains I used which go right over acrylic paint, least mine do.