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Dave G.

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    1/25 or larger

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    David Grabowski

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  1. The 1927 Lincoln roadster had 136 inch wheel base. Edit: So a 1927 Lincoln roadster has a 30" longer wheel base than a 32 Ford roadster. If my calculations are right, in 1/25 that equates to 1.2 inch difference.
  2. Even in real, compare apples for apples. The 27 T was more petite than a Lincoln. A Lincoln did not have mass or boldness of say, Pierce Arrow though. By 1932 Fords were certainly larger than in 27. Then in scale models, you have the Monogram classics, but they were 1/24 scale. No, I go back to the 27 T in 1/25, compare your Lincoln to that. Then again, maybe I'm missing your message entirely, lol !!!
  3. IDK, I just use Mr Surfacer for lacquers and Stynylrez for acrylics, and Enamels may get either. I'm very pleased, never an issue. And Mr Surfacer is a very fine filmed primer, so the coats don't get fat. I like it that way. I'm from the if it isn't broken don't fix it camp. But then too, I've never used Duplicolor on models, which leads back to my camp theory. I do see several complaints about Duplicolor on the forum, at least fairly regularly.
  4. Decanting and airbrushing shouldn't be an issue, unless you added some incorrect thinner to it. I could see that causing some sort of issue.
  5. Wow, I think the first issue 49 Fords were the molded in black version. I remember black, grey, blue and now the latest years are white. That's all I have to say. I personally don't polish kit plastic, especially my first goal after flash removal is to get on a light coat of primer, so the kit doesn't look so plastic, lol..
  6. In another thread I'm one who mentioned 91% IPA for stripping. I want to clarify, that was for model branded lacquers and for Tamiya acrylic. In either case using Mr Surfacer primer. I was done stripping using a full submersion method after about 30 minutes wait period. The paint literally melted off. And the plastic untouched. I just used an old soft toothbrush to wipe the paint out of crevices and such. And to take any remnant film off. In the case of Purple Power, I've found that to be very mild, after a few days of soaking, I needed a plastic utensil to scrape the paint off. Bushes were doing next to nothing. But it did scrape easily and the utensil did not mar the plastic. I think I used the back side of a knife. That was for waterborne acrylic paint with Stynylrez primer.
  7. A good submerged soak in a jar of isopropyl 91% alcohol will strip most paints. I know that Mr Surfacer and Tamiya products melt off in 20-30 minutes and that it does no harm to the plastic. I'm not sure about well cured enamel, I haven't tried that.
  8. You can get to that sheen by mixing a little gloss coat into Dullcoat or similar product. The full size car photo shows a nice uniform satin finish that is a bit less sheen than semi gloss. The kit wheels are shown two in shadow and two in direct light as shown by the back sheet they sit on. Just fwiw.
  9. With enamel in building my classic era cars, I never clear coat. First the finish is pretty much ready for display out of the airbrush, thinning with lacquer thinner. If not, wait a month and buff it then. That's just my way. In real those cars were never clear coated. I use Colgate tooth paste and a bees wax polishing formula to polish enamel color coat if needed, no clear. But it has to be well cured. Mostly these days I've changed to Tamiya LP and other lacquers though. I also can get an exceptional finish from Rustoleum 2x paints, decanted, lacquer thinner added and airbrushed. It flows right out into the 30's to 50's look if put over a super smooth finish. Shoot it up near 30psi with a Paasche H and medium tip. .The H is popular for this because it will actually flow the 30 psi, many modern designs are restricted, you could crank them up to 50 but still only get the restricted airflow, usually under 25 psi. The H will flow 50 if one wanted 50.. For the record, I've shot Createx straight from the bottle for T Shirt type art work, at 40psi. I like Createx for models too, but use the additives and thinners or my own substitute thinner. Createx 4050 UV protected clear can be buffed to look like lacquer. But you gotta understand the Createx system.
  10. To me run some tests with your current system. Are there any sand scratches in your final finish ? If not, you're covered. If there are, then guide coat to me is merely an option. But it may be that simply more sanding and finer grits will get you there just as well. Also to me, the grits in modeling are fine enough to render guide coat kind of useless, since beyond about 320 or 400 grit you're ,even in 1/1, guide coat is over with. You're final sanding at that point. It may be different for custom builders with lots of putty work. I'm not one of those.
  11. That's a great cream for Model A wheels, if building stock. Sticky plungers were a terrible problem with Rustoleum and Lawson Products ( I believe they were the same product) white and semigloss black, back about 15 years ago, it would empty an entire new can. Fortunately this was at work where there were bins to toss the cans into while they did their thing. But even with brisk shaking, the first thing out of the nozzle was a kind of resin, then you knew you had a sticker.
  12. Mr Thinner and the retarder are everywhere. I'm thinking I could make my own MLT that way.
  13. Has anyone bought Mr Leveling Thinner recently ? If so and in the US, where from ? I'm getting low and it seems everywhere online its out of stock. Even the Mr site itself wasn't showing it. I see it at Ebay but don't really trust ebay/.
  14. I don't use enamel primers for anything. And Rustoleum primer is enamel. I bought exactly one can with stipulation if it wasn't lacquer, as the store employee said it was, I could return it. I shot one little spritz of paint and returned it. I know the smell of enamel primer from years ago, Got my money back. I'll use enamel color coats but not primer.
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