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Dave G.

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    David Grabowski

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MCM Ohana

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  1. I've only ever heard and seen great things about the Infinity !
  2. I just use the metal side cup on my 200 for metalizer, I like the taper in that better than in my gravity feed. Just turn the 200 on it's side and swing the metal cup upward. I think the ideal airbrush for Metalizer conservation in my case, though would be the tiny cupped version of the Badger 100 using a .2 or .25 tip setup.. I use the .25 on the 200 ( same tip sets as the 100, thus they could be shared)/ My own gravity brush is an Iwata knock off the cup is too big, though you could eye dropper the paint right into the body I suppose.. I have a .2 for that one. Also there is a nice little metal cup with good taper for the Paasche VL. If you cut the flow way back using the fine needle, it does fairly well too on conserving paints in general. But the small tip is something like .4, though it will only feed what you give it munch on. Still, and since I don't own a 100, the Badger 200, metal cup, .25 tip is my favorite for Metalizer and lacquers in general. Always has been, I've owned that brush since 1975 or 76ish.
  3. I'm with everyone else, several choices in metal finishes but the MM buffing has not been duplicated as yet. IMO. I have perhaps half a bottle left of Aluminum Plate Buffing. Hah, and I try not to use it lol !!
  4. To me Micheals is good for artist grade paints and grade 2 canvases, canvas boards etc.. In that regard both my wife and I paint and have bought stacks of canvases for classes or even 20x30 for our own art work. Become a rewards member and you can do quite well on pricing. I've never bought a model there. In looking around the model section it's never been well stocked even in it's hay day. Not compared with well stocked hobby suppliers, for certain. Find someplace else to get your model supplies from or shop online is my suggestion.
  5. I would think the Sparmax should be fine. The pancake is noisy but you could air it up ahead of your session and shut it off. That's what I do with my 8 gal portable for airbrushing. It's a once a week air up kind of thing with the 8 gaL, so I listen to it bang away once a week or so. Meanwhile it's silent. I know nothing about the HyperTough.
  6. Set the pressure to 25-30 psi, the highest pressure to ever likely be used. Then flow air. You will see a slight pressure drop to 28-29 psi, if it maintains that drop number you got a winner. I've used 30 psi with some enamels. And 25 regularly with enamels if to use enamel. Most likely both compressors will pass the test but it's good to know up front.
  7. Same in art supplies, lots of gaps. Yet other items you may or may not want seem in over supply. It's everywhere not just models. And with every excuse under the sun,usually supply chain related. Also worker shortages. How about that weather, even weather patterns. Creation groans, believe it.
  8. There hasn't been many models at Micheals stores in years here in the NE USA, least not of the three I visit.. I more go to Micheals because the wife and I do crafts and art painting. Hobby Lobby has much more for car models and once a week or every two weeks plastic models go on 40% discount for a day or two. The key is hitting the place on those days, who doesn't like a nice kit for nearly half price , even if to stash it if it's something you know you will be enthused to get to! But still not stocked like a really well stocked actual Hobby store. We have one of those in the area, he marks things up though, not down.
  9. Rustoleum 2x decanted, thinned slightly more with lacquer thinner and airbrushed, comes out as nice as any hobby enamel I've ever shot. They may also have a safety yellow that may be good. But this assumes the OP wants to go the extra steps. If anyone is not willing to take any extra steps with any Rustoleum paint, then just stay away from the stuff is my suggestion. I've shot this stuff over Stynylrez primer which is a poly acrylic primer and sealer. What I'm not a fan of is trying to paint a model with Rustoleum 2x from the can. If you do that, heat the can in very hot tap water and shake liberally, repeat until the can remains warm to the touch. Now try spraying it. Rustoleum 2x settles, you gotta get the solids and resins all mixed in or the stem to the nozzle will hopelessly clog. There is nothing inherently wrong with 2x as an enamel paint as long as you use a primer sealer on the model. Of the two methods I mentioned, I much prefer the first. It's a thinner method,you can build on your coats and there is less waste with improved flow out. That said, I'm slowly turning over to Tamiya LP lacquers.
  10. Thanks, ya I should have included that info. Yellow can be fussy with what color is under it, in whatever iteration.Be that acrylic ( water borne), lacquer or enamel.
  11. The Chrome Yellow will be fine for a service truck, especially the two toned ones.
  12. Id use craft paint in a heart beat but then Im used to it, having worked with it airbrushing for years. One note, you need primer. Second note you, need a couple of light initial coats and flash them off fully before getting to the heavier coats. Createx thinner is a good choice, though I make my own knock off of it that works just as well. And the third point: you need to clear coat this stuff. Both for gloss and to seal it. On the other hand Chrome Yellow is very close and a one shot deal in a spray can. I imagine the Tamiya is fine, my experience was with Model Master enamel, no longer made. With MM, spray it you were done.
  13. I make my own green from craft paints. Really though, there are a few that are close enough from the bottle, especially if you add weathering. And unless you're building something off the showroom floor, it's going to be weathered. Not to mention the factory colors even varied some. As far as the red goes, weathered red flatheads were pretty faded. I doubt most hot rodders kept that. Pictures I've seen of hot rod flatheads in red are pretty much fire engine red. Testors bright red is fine in that case.
  14. A transplanted flathead 8 could arguably be about any color. Many hot rodders use what color paint they desire.
  15. Ive decanted Rustoleum 2x , thinned it with lacquer thinner and airbrushed it over Stynylrez primer/sealer and it's turned out awesome. There are a few good colors or some basic colors mixed with their white that makes for some good classic car pastel colors. After thinning and airbrushing it comes out as nice as any model enamels do. The key to my statement above is " I've " past tense. With the advent of paints like Tamiya LP lacquers it's just less work and faster dry time to use those, with even nicer results. Those I've shot to bare plastic for small stuff or over Mr Surfacer otherwise. I already posted my sentiment on primers in another post, so I'm not going there. By the way, is the OP poster still in this thread or are we just conversing with one another here, minus him ?.
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