Dave G.

Yes, you should be fine, Kyle.

1 oz of pre mixed lacquer is not a lot of paint, especially if you need room for fudge factor. 2 oz leaves a lot of cushion for error. 1 oz of uncut paint is more than enough, even in 1/16 scale. I did a 1/16 Model A, body only in MCW Washington Blue. This was a roadster and the fenders were already done in black. So real estate wise, not so different from a full bodied 60's era car in 1/24. I just made it . One or two areas had sand scratch swelling, which wasn't too bad and I just scuffed out with 3200. I re dusted those areas, blending into the rest ( the wonders of lacquer allow for that). And all was well. I brushed in door jams and such but the paint really is too thin for brushing. And that pretty well did in the 1oz bottle of paint. I might have an 1/8th of the jar left. I got enough paint on the body to make it blue, clear coat is the gloss. Now the fenders I did in Tamiya acrylic and just buffed the color itself up. No clear coat needed, no scuff sanding, just a quick buff up. LP lacquer wasn't out yet, today I'd use that for the black fenders.

I'm assuming you mean the varnishes. If you add it to the paints, you can extend the volume a bit. Too much starts to make the paints more transparent, that could be good or bad depending on your purpose. In most acrylic lines that have gloss or for that matter matt mediums and varnishes 5-20% added to paint can extend them and sometimes/often/usually improve leveling. Paints like Createx have clear intercoats, which also converts the acrylic paint to poly-acrylic. This makes the surface much harder and more scratch resistant, There are modelers who mix certain amounts of Vallejo clear into the colors but I'm not one. In acrylic paints, I tend to use the Createx 4030 up to 25%. Best I can say for now. I also have added Liquitex clear varnish into various acrylic colors. Also US ART supply acrylic thinner has acrylic medium in it, add enough and it improves gloss, which is great as long as you didn't want flat, lol ! Others will probably offer their take on your question, my way isn't the only way.

I guess that's why nobody makes a 1956 Buick hardtop, or better yet a 38 Buick sedan. Nobody ever did it before. Those cars have been missing since I first started modeling cars around 1958. So Moebius comes out with a 55 and 56 Chrysler. I emailed them once about a Buick, no reply.

To my knowledge, it still is ! Suffice it to say that I don't buy it in any product, if the good stuff is available..

Any of the no tox stuff is kind of like that, got no wompum ! But back in the 1960's when I first ran into Pactra, I doubt there was non tox. Or I didn't know about it.

Ya, I actually saw it at Amazon, Trevor. As I mentioned, if it's the same as MM, then my favorite glue for general plastic model assembly, lives on !!

Briefly, on another note: I found out that Testors black bottle glue is available. Anyone know if it's the same glue that used to be Model Master black bottle ( my favorite for that slighted melted welded bond) ? If it is, then black bottle continues for me as my main build glue, though I have others for various purposes. Orange tube, is not the glue I recall as a kid in the late 1950's and early 60's. But then again , I may have had Pactra back then. Oh well, time moves on, I marvel that I can recall anything from back then, but some thing are clearer than stuff I did yesterday.

A little slow is good for me, so I can get in my 6 attempts to get something to where I perceive it as straight lol. Slowish allows for wiggle room factor. It's not just my 74 years, it's always been if something grabs instantly a seam line will be off or whatever else. Double astigmatisms don't help.

I can also reference oil painting on this. You can have an acrylic base and oil paint over that. In fact it's common to acrylic gesso a canvas to prep it for oil painting. But not the other way around. As much as you think the oil has cured enough, then apply acrylic, it will backfire on you. Everything from wrinkling, to cracking to peeling right off. You might witness this happening tomorrow or next year, but it will happen.

I'm not a fan of acrylic over lacquer if that's what we are talking about here. Not even within Tamiya's own line. I've tested it. Where acrylic and lacquer meet or have been layered so to speak, down the road a piece it cracked. And it cracked deep, right down to the base substance, in this case, plastic. It looked great going on, but give it 6 months and look again.

Also, I've used several brands super glue. But for thin supergule I've found Zap to really work well. And I like the Gorilla gel super glue for some things. These besides what I already said in my other post. For clear parts, I like the Testors clear parts glue.

I don't have one favorite glue, I use various glues for different reasons. But the glue I like that probably cant be found any longer, for permanent assembly of the main parts, is/was Model Master black bottle. Or if there will be some form of stress, like door hinges, I like the black bottle glue. When mine runs out, not sure what I'll use then. The Testors orange tube isn't bad but not as strong as the black bottle. If you think you might want to pop the model apart, just tack glue together with the orange tube.

I should tread softly here, as many of you in the forums are still active in contests and shows. I have not been active in that for decades. Thus my statements you quoted from should have been less outright. Also, and I debated it, concerning 2k, I should have said something like, many modelers feel it's required to win. Rather than give the impression that it really takes 2K to win. My mistake !

Those organic cartridges go active as soon as you open the sealed package. If you just leave them out in the air they won't last very long. So you need to get them sealed back up after each use. It's mostly the mask framework that holds the cartridges that gets condensation and as mentioned, it needs to be dry before bagging up.