Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Dave G.

Members
  • Content Count

    736
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Dave G.

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25 or larger

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sandwich Ma
  • Full Name
    David Grabowski

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The FSM armor or airbrushing forum will also have more answers than you probably want to hear lol. But I can tell you personally that water based acrylics will go right over lacquer. As others mentioned a semi gloss/luster/satin clear coat over the base lacquer coat before the wash goes on will help you gain your end result. You don't need to bury the model in the clear, a light coat or two on there is sufficient. Same for the flat at the end.
  2. No I was saying there is more to building the R/M. I'd like to put a set of those Revell wheels and tires on the AMT sedan sometime ! Or it would be nice if Revell offered a sedan someday, also a 41 sedan. And a Chevy also.But hey dreams are free at least.
  3. I don't know if I'd say miles ahead but it has it's advantages. Right off the bat the wheels and tires and trim rings on the wheels are the correct size. On the other hand the AMT running boards are the more correct version. The Revell/Monogram is more to build if one wants simplicity. Then one needs to consider if they want to build a standard couple or deluxe, AMT is deluxe, Monogram the standard.
  4. The 39 hood should fit marginally better than the the 40 hood. It took 10 minutes of heat and gentle bending to get that to fit reasonably well on the one I built a couple of years ago and seems tome I trimmed the hinge/pins or slots for them to release the push outward to the sides.. The 40 hood would take more work. I was building the 39 version anyway,which isn't really true since it would tale more modifying to build a true 39. It's easier to build the 39 into a 40 standard rather than deluxe. Not all that bad considering these are 1959 moldsthough, we just sort of took that sort of things
  5. Well that was a long time ago for me but never had a problem, never even considered it a problem. I shot 1/1 for 35 years not all that differently really, back in the paint rooms of the day.. The key is the motor type. Other factors too but I'll end there. Booths are ideal but not the only way is all. By the way, love your scriptures !!
  6. Never had a problem and today most fan motors are induction type, there is no arc. And concentrations from an airbrush aren't even close to high enough to be an issue in open air anyway, unless you collect them in a container and light it off like the guy who tried to use a shop vac for evacuation..
  7. Yep/agree. And so simple. I did the same 50 years ago. Just don't hang a bird feeder out there lol. Back in the day shooting 1/1 all we used were big shrouded fans for exhaust, cleaned the paint room of overspray in about a minute. Inlet port to the room on one end for fresh air, fan on the other end.
  8. Ok Mark, got it. Sorry, missed what you were getting at in your other message.
  9. The optional engine for the sedan is a rather nice rendition of Oldsmobile. The coupe has the Buick nailhead as the optional engine. The original flathead v8 are ok, you can detail the up pretty nice just with care taken painting them and good judgement used for a wash.
  10. Ya with acrylic it's basically the particulates you blow outside.While spraying acrylic a simple N95 is really sufficient. But unseen particulates linger in the air for a time, you can find your nose hairs getting stuck so to speak. I get sinus infections easy so I'd rather shoot it into a trash can or booth. A booth will handle that as well as any stink to which there isn't much and very short lived. Simple household cleaning agents are stronger and most women use those and don't say a word about it. Half the time it boils down to what the husband is doing, doesn't much matter what it is but
  11. Somewhere out there in youtube land is a video on fine tuning those airbrushes like you have, a good part of it is polishing the needle, so nothing drastic. I polish my needles on internal mix airbrushes anyway, it tends to smooth out droplet uniformity and pattern. Air pressure for craft paint 20-25 psi with properly thinned paint. I mentioned in my last post proper thinning by viscosity. Also while washer fluid is an improvement over water my thinner will be better with small details. Just sayin. Whatever you use I encourage thinning outside the airbrush in a mixing bottle or cup, then tran
  12. It will never spray completely right with plain water as thinner, it will spray but not behave right on the model. And washer fluid is a step up but not quite there yet. It will work though. I mix my own formulas depending which craft paint it is as some don't like ipa alcohol. My thinner is loosely based off what Bobby @ Genesis Models put out in a video . I use a couple different brands than he does. My flow aid type varies and my retarded is always Liquitex. My craft paints don't spray a whole lot different than solvent paint in nature. Ok all that said. If you grab a little paint with
  13. A couple light coats of just about any brand or type of clear should work . I mix my own desired sheen of acrylic varnish clears, a combo of Matt and satin depending on the interior material in mind and I airbrush ( could be brushed too). But I've shot about every kind of clear over craft paint with no issues. As mentioned above be mindful of the primer if used and don't flood the paint on. Flats especially do better misted on.
  14. You can polish the flat aluminum craft paints with Formula ! scratch out and bring them up to a luster finish just fwiw. Both FolkArt and Craft Smart have some pretty nice silvers to choose from between the brands.
×
×
  • Create New...