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RSchnell

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Posts posted by RSchnell

  1. I bought a '59 Ford F-800 fire truck that had the 332 Heavy duty engine and it had the ram horn manifolds. Bought it with the intention of making a rollback out of it as the frame was already the right length- but someone offered me double what I paid for it before I even got it home, so it went down the road. I'll have to see if I can find the photos. 

    I've been messing with Y-blocks for 30+ years. Even though my days of projects are probably over, I still want to build one more "full house Y-block" and put it in a '56 Victoria.

    • Thanks 1
  2. It's cool to see so many others with similar memories as mine! Not much to report, a bit more filing & sanding. Screwed the chassis together and painted the wheels. The tires were rock hard and didn't want to risk breaking them or the wheels so I painted the wheels with the tires still attached. Humbrol 89 is close enough for Hessian Blue for me. May shoot some primer tomorrow and see how everything looks.

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  3. 6 hours ago, junkyardjeff said:

    The Lincoln manifolds will not bolt on a Ford but they look similar.

    Correct. The Lincoln manifold bolt holes are at an angle & the 292-312 Ford bolt pattern is straight across. 

     

    8 hours ago, tim boyd said:

    My understanding is that the Ram's horn manifolds were also found on the Lincoln Y-blocks, as the Lincoln Y-Block and Super Duty Ford Truck Y Blocks were largely the same.   If they were not used on Lincoln Y-Blocks, please someone present a definitive source proving that point.   

    Thanks....TIM  

     

     

    There were a lot of differences between the Lincoln passenger car Y-block and the "Heavy truck Y-block". Heads, cam, even blocks were all different between bore displacement. You will not find ram horn style manifolds on any Ford, Mercury or Lincoln passenger car engine of any displacement as the exhaust dump interferes with the front suspension of the car. This was not an issue on trucks since they had a solid front axle. 

  4. After an hour or so of trimming the flash and rough sanding/filing, it's starting to look pretty good. Looking at the colors for 1930, I'm going with Andalusite Blue which is a very deep dark blue- almost black until you get in full sun. I've painted a few 1:1 Model A's in this color and it's really a nice deep blue. 

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  5. Since I'm sidelined with Covid and have some free time thought I'd start a build thread. You don't see many of these old Hubley kits built anymore, they require filing and go together with screws. These kits hold a tremendous amount of nostalgia for me as I've built a bunch of them with my dad & grandfather, we had the 1:1 Model A's to go with the models too. I already have a pretty good collection of Hubley Model A's, some I customized to create cars that Hubley never made such as a closed cab pickup & A-400. Saw this kit at a local swap for $10 & couldn't pass it up. This is the first Hubley I've built in probably 20 years!

    Tonight's installment starts with what you get in the box, The tools I'm using for this build are a set of files, some 320 DA paper on a sanding pad, cheap nippers from Harbor Freight to trim the flash off. I'm building this OOB so I'm not going to open up the bumpers or do any other super detailing. 

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  6. Finally had time to come visit this thread again. Very nice work everyone posted! I started out with a 110 film camera when I was a kid and worked my way up to an Olympus Om-1n 35mm SLR that I still have. I shoot Nikon crop sensor now, either a D3300 or D7500. The 7500 is a real workhorse in my opinion. I don't keep many photos on the computer as I tend to print the ones I keep- but here's a few:

     

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  7. I'd do a 3/4 front view and 3/4 rear view from the opposite side. However just two photos of each car is likely not enough if you're looking to sell any later down the road, but I suppose you can always go back and add more. I do a lot of product photography and will create a new folder on the memory card for each type of product. That way everything is already organized before I pull the card from the camera. 

    One thing I notice a lot with shooting model cars is the front will be in focus and sharp while the back wheels and rear end of the car will be out of focus, this is really an issue when the car is at angle. You can always increase your depth of field by going to a higher f/stop. With a well lighted "booth" and the camera on a tripod(I use a shutter release cable) f/8-f/9 with a shutter speed of 125-250 should get you close. 

    I'm not familiar with the Iphone so I'm not sure what it's capabilities are, though I assume they are good for what you're doing. Here's a couple sample photos I had on the computer showing the angles I use most when shooting cars.

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    • Like 1
  8. 14 hours ago, Eric Macleod said:

    Good eye. The Coupelet is an Aardvark/Model Martin transkit. It included the body, interior. Top, hood, radiator, fenders and litte doo-dads like top irons and door handles. Andy Martin is a contributor here and could address the question in more detail.

    In the case of my build, I used the '25 Ford Model T Runabout for the chassis, running gear and wheels. I had Chrometech plate the small parts brass but they seem to have disappeared so I am not sure who I would use now. Hope that helps a little.

    Thanks for the info! I've used Tamiya clear yellow over Bare metal foil and Floquil Silver to simulate brass and actually doesn't look too bad. Used that method on a couple of the ICM Model T kits.

  9. On 12/27/2021 at 11:33 PM, 89AKurt said:

    Awesome you completed so many!  I like the German cars, the 300SLR is a historic car, is it a decent kit?

    It's a really nice kit, the only problem I had is the engine sits up a tad too high which doesn't let the hood close all that way- of course I discovered this too late! This is the kit. Revell reboxed this one later on, mine was the 90s Monogram boxing.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  10. 10 hours ago, Eric Macleod said:

    I have ask...what do you have for prewar cars. Here's one of mine.20210916_171326.thumb.jpg.a599f33745b3be93c23a93def2955fe8.jpg

    Nice Caddy! I'm down to a couple of Model A's but have had an eclectic group in the past. '32 Plymouth, '27 Whippet, Model T's, etc. I also owned a small resto shop restoring pre 1965 cars.  I'm still halfway looking for a 1931-32 Lincoln 7 passenger sedan if one showed up for the right price.

  11. 48 minutes ago, Eric Macleod said:

    I agree on the Lincoln.  That's a great model, though personally,  I didn't see anything I did not like. Your output for 2021 is more than I've built in the last 10 years!

    I don't have much time to sit down & work at the bench-usually 5-7 hours a week, so I've worked out an assembly line of sorts. Usually have 3 or 4 builds going-while paint is drying on one, I'll jump on one I painted the night before. Prewar stuff is my favorite and I've worked on 1:1 prewar cars for 40+ years so things go together pretty quick for me on those!

  12. 4 hours ago, Zippi said:

    Nice models.  They all look great.  What its the Delivery/Panel body in the 3rd pic that looks like it's a rootbeer color.  Looks like a really slick paint job.  

    That's the old Monogram '37 Ford Street Rod kit. I sprayed it with some Model Master Enamel that I picked up on clearance at Hobby Lobby. I haven't cut & buffed it yet, I usually spray 2-3 bodies and let them cure for a couple weeks before color sanding.

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