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Steve D.

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About Steve D.

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    MCM Friend
  • Birthday 09/18/1957

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  • Location
    Halifax Mass
  1. 50+ Vendor tables of model car kits, promos, resin-cast, parts, die cast & more! Model Car Exhibition : Feel free to display your model cars and trucks . Door prizes to be awarded all day Peoples choice voting awards : Best Automotive, Best Light Commercial/Municipal, Best Heavy Truck/Heavy Municipal, Best Junior Build, ages up to 18 Club Awards : Masscar Model Club, L.I.A.R.S. Club, Town of Newburgh N.Y. Model Car Club, and the A.T.E.A.M. Club DOORS OPEN on SUNDAY MARCH 20 at 9:00 AM Spectator Admission : $8 (ages 12 to adult) , children under 12 free There is no model registration fee . Feel free to bring and display your model cars and trucks For additional show and vendor info contact Stu Marcus at 603-382-9724 marcus_stuart@yahoo.com
  2. I usually clean my airbrush with lacquer thinnerr , but beware it will dry out your O-rings . You can prevent this by running regular paint thinner or mineral spirits thru your brush before puting it away . One tip with using an airbrush , don't let paint dry in it . If it's gonna sit for a while dump out the paint . run some thinner throu haveh it and your ready to go . Take care and have fun , Steve D.
  3. Surgery on the legs (sore as hell) but everything above the waist is fine and I happen to be a model car builder . So the marathon begins tomorrow. I have just finished the Mobius Hornet and have to say it was one of the most pleasurable buids I've ever had . Congrats to them on an outstanding kit . I have the Historic racing miniatures trans kit for the Ferarri 330 P-4 (Fujimi) and the Ford GT-40 and was thinking about one of those . Also on deck is the rereleased 76 Gremlin kit from round 2 ,now I need ideas for a third . I usually build in series of two or three at a time , so I'm looking for idea's . I probably should finish any old projects I have going , I'm sure there are a couple lurking in the basement . So thats it , kinda looking for ideas for the next session. Take care and see you around the clubhouse Steve D.
  4. Am planning to add a couple of these to my collection any info would be appreciated . thanks Steve D.
  5. I,m a regular subscriber ,I guess I'll have to wait a couple more weeks for mine . Ah the advantages of being a supporter of the mag.
  6. Fifteen bucks at Michaels is nothing compared to waiting six to eight weeks for a set of decals , heck I'll bet there's a company out there that makes decals for this very same model .
  7. Revell’s new trio of Funnycar kits I have just completed a build up of these three kits and the following is just some casual observations I have made on each one . Roland Leongs Hawaiian First of all if you are planning a real nuts and bolts replica with full blown detailing make sure you first get some pictures of the car at a particular event . I picked mine up at Michael’s in March , and just built it out of the box . There might be an issue with the color call outs for painting as the instructions say the interior tin work should be painted black . The tin work should be silver or natural aluminum . Also there is the glass work that should have a blue tint . ( I found this out just before installing mine and dusted on a coat of Tamiya clear blue.) Having read the reviews , I noticed someone making an issue of the hatch cover on the Hawaiian . While it might be out of place , I would not putty in the cover unless I was going to scribe in a new one . All funnycars had the hatch (usually with a mirror) to assist in backing the cars up after the pre race burn out to warm the tires . I think an out of place hatch is better than no hatch . The only problem I had with the build concerns the rear end . While dry fitting the rear end parts I noticed that the steel axel supplied with the kit was just barely wider than the rear end piece . So I simply cut a piece of brass rod as a replacement . Easy fix right ? well no , as it turns out . If I had narrowed the rear end piece a tiny amount (not enough to affect the mounting of the disc brakes) I would have given myself enough clearance for the body at the rear tires . As it sits now you must take care when lowering the body down over the chassis because of the rear end width . (the judges will LOVE that one) This kit along with the CHI TOWN HUSTLER are great kits in that they show another couple of versions of the types of chassis that were being run in this period . Even though the kits share the same tires and some of the same body parts they are two completely different kits . FARKONAS , COIL , and MINICK CHI TOWN HUSTLER This kit went together like a dream . The only thing with this kit is that I “imagineered” the plumbing and wiring on the kit . If I had only known about all the info coming in the latest mags I might have gone that way……..maybe I’ll just build a couple more…… they are that good. No problems with this build , and the decals for both kits are top notch , and that bring me to the MONGOOSE “75” Plymouth Duster Funnycar This appears to be a rerelease of a funnycar kit with a new body and tinwork for the Duster . The reason I know this is because all the parts are the same as the Revell/Slixx generic “70’s” Charger funnycar kit that I am currently building . (another Blue Hawaiian) On this build I really wanted the decals to pop so I figured I had better paint the body in three colors , red , white , and blue . When all the major decals on the sheet are white and they are going on red panels there is cause for concern . After painting this became apparent. The decals on the side panel that were painted white underneath looked great . The white stripes on the tops and the GO NAVY decals on the hood and side were translucent . Cartograph oh cartograph were are you ? So it’s off to Michaels With my trusty 40% off coupon for another kit and set of decals . I ended up decaling over the white stripes and the GO NAVY decals on the hood and sides ala Fred Cady . While I’m not thrilled having to buy another kit , it came out so well , I’m not going to complain , but thought it should be mentioned . The only way to avoid this would be to paint white under all the white decals turning what would otherwise be a great kit into a monster . (or stick with pink markings) So if you plan on building this kit plan on either two sets of decals or some fancy masking and paint work . The other option is SLIXX decals , which I will be looking into , now that I have a kit without decals . The rest of the kit goes together well and there are no surprises . This kit employs the “straight Logghe bros. style chassis that was very common in funnycars of the day . The difference between most cars was how they they set up thier fuel and cooling tanks , so again if you are doing a replica keep this in mind . All in all this is a GREAT series of kits and I will be adding at least a few of each to my collection ….hmmm ……..no matter how fast I build , I can’t seem to get my collection to shrink . This weekend I’m going to figure out how to post pic’s if it kills me. Take care and see around the clubhouse STEVE D.
  8. With everyone saying accurate this and accurate that I can't believe no one has mentioned Accurate Miniatures kits . Both of thier kits remain amoung my favorites of all time . I know they don't exactly fall together but build into beautiful kits , and are on my automatic buy list when I see them for a fair price . I would love to see what this company would have produced if they were still around ! A series of Chapparals and Lola's maybe ? ....I can dream can,t I .
  9. Revell's "49" Mercury also had a set if I remember correctly .
  10. Tamiya clear lacquers ie red , blue , yellow , look absoutley incredable when applied over Testors silver diamond dust . If you have access to some you should definately check it out . Warm the can and be careful of the fumes ...twice as bad as Tamiya's , smell any ways . Take care , and see you around the clubhouse , Steve D.
  11. Recently I completed a diorama with the Revell midgets , and I needed some spare tires for the tire rack . The Revell Chevy lowrider kits from the early 60's have gold plated accessories including rims . Strip the plating and repaint with metalizer , then turn the tires into speedway slicks with the trusty old "Dremel". This diorama can be seen on the Masscar show website titled "The Spring and Fall of a dirt track summer" . I used these tires on the fall midget , and although not completely accurate , when dirtied up they are more than passable . I threw a set in the bed of the pick-up also . Take care and see you around the clubhouse , Steve D.
  12. Tamiya lacquer spray cans are the way to go . Warm with hot tap water before use . (If you can't put your finger in it , it's too hot) . You can get many different effects by using different base coats . Gold and silver are common choices and Tamiya's silver leaf and gold are great to use . But for a really cool effect spray Tamiya's clear colors over a base coat of Testors Diamond dust silver metallic lacquer . This paint has a coarse pigment that looks fantastic under the candy colors . I just finished the "Frankonis,Coil,and Minick" Chi-Town Hustler . This has a candy red finish so I sprayed mine with a gold base on the top(Tamiya) and a silver diamond dust on the sides(Testors). This model should be done in the next week or so , I'll try and post some pics then. Hope this helps. Take care and see you around the clubhouse Steve D.
  13. I missed tht NNL east in New Jersey as my son got last minute tickets to the BRUINS-CANADIENS at the garden . They lost the game but ended up winning the series-I must admit they are 0-7 in the last seven games I've gone to. I hope they win the cup therefore will not be attending more playoff games this season , GO BRUINS Steve D.
  14. Tamiya and Testors lacquer and Model master metalizers are great choices . Try polishing the body with an old tee shirt and some cheap polishing paste. Also called rubbing compound, can be found in any parts store or big box store. It usually comes in two colors (grits)red which is more coarse and white ,finer . A tub of this stuff is only a few bucks and will last for years. Polish the bare plastic before priming, prime, lightly polish again and apply finish coat . I use this method for award wining finishes using rattle can paint. Also try warming the spray can in the hottest water you can stand putting your finger in. Cool color tip: Testors Diamond Dust silver base coat followed by Tamiya clear red, blue, or orange for the most incredable candy finish you have ever seen. Follow with a couple of straight clear coats and WOW . Good Luck Take Care and see you around the clubhouse, Steve D.
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