oldcarfan
-
Posts
1,991 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by oldcarfan
-
-
Just an update. I'm calling this one done! I found some decals off eBay and got them on. I put the roof rack on and got the snorkel air intake in place and it's ready to go offroading.
-
21 hours ago, Rocketman455 said:
Got this today. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not familiar with this brand or any Japanese kits for that matter. The boat and trailer is what intrigued me. Box is alitte rough but all contents were complete and sealed inside.
I'd love to have this kit, the boat looks cool and I'd forgotten about those cars. I wonder how many of the 1:1 Arrows still exist in the world?
-
The Le Moo 2 as it was called was a truck that was on my If I win the lottery list!
-
1
-
-
Nice! You did a great job. I may have to add one of these to my wish list.
-
1
-
-
Looking good. I have this kit too and am looking for ideas.Thanks!
-
I'm glad Chrysler has the sense to offer a hybrid version. I'm in the market for something new and a couple of vehicles sort of look fun such as the new VW van, but a pure electric vehicle will not be in the running. Like a lot of America, I live in a rural area and I don't want to have to worry about charging time or availability.
-
I'm glad to hear this stuff is good. The Hobby Lobby and the Hobby Town I went to were all out of Tamiya stuff and I'm running low. The Hobby Lobby nearest me just started carrying the Mr. Surfacer and I'll give it a try.
-
I've been thinking of getting a food dehydrator to cure paint more quickly. None of the thrift shops around me have had one, but they have tons of knock-off Yeti cups. Anyway, I remembered my father in law has one that he doesn't use and was going to ask about it last weekend. The whole family was visiting the in laws. As if on cue, my millennial niece came by and the first thing she said was that she is going to be a herbologist and wanted to borrow the food dehydrator. She grabbed it and then set about checking their yard for harvestable weeds. Oh well, you snooze, you lose. I may break down and just order one off Amazon.
-
1
-
-
That's a good start! Have fun with it, those Tamiya Porsches are nice kits.
-
1
-
-
Testor's may not be aware of this, but their parent company probably does. I recently uncovered a box of paints that I had put away many years ago. They were mostly Testor's brand and many were doing just as you describe. I started looking at them and the one common denominator was that the leaking cans all had Rustoleum's name somewhere on the can. The older ones had only Testor's name on them and there were no leaking cans among that group. Personal opinion, and I've tried many ways to make it work, but Rustoleum is not a particularly good product and that seems to have filtered down to Testor's as well. For spray paint I try to use only Tamiya, Duplicolor, or Krylon, depending on the use.
-
1
-
-
18 hours ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:
I just get a lot of this whole 124 versus 125 and if you do the math and I understand the whole car completely different story things that are supposed to look exactly right like a bumper it's like 3 mm wider for 124 versus 125 on a full size truck You know that I can see but when you start talking about things that are a millimeter or less it just doesn't make sense to do well scales and while there's a lot of argument on which one of the two you should do I personally think that doing them a little bit bigger is better than doing them a little bit smaller
Understandable. Even among the major kit makers, scale was a subjective thing. I talked to someone a few years back that designed kits for Monogram back in the day. He said that tires and engines were always a bit bigger than scale because it looked better to the eye for most modelers.
-
1 hour ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:1 hour ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:
So had this conversation before One I know the engine's accurate I've measured it against my own coyote engine in my car The difference between 124 and 125 on that engine very specifically is 0.78 mm wider. Understand Coyote is a very wide engine It's not a scale issue. if that 3/4 of a millimeter which is ridiculously small in comparison is an issue then it really doesn't belong What really makes this engine wider the two honking turbo sticking off the sides.
No worries, I didn't make it clear. The problem is more with my scratchbuilding than anything else. The engine is fine and I built the engine bay before ordering the twin turbo engine using the non turbo engine from a Monogram Mustang to judge the room needed.
While I'm on the subject, I do want to compliment your engine. I was expecting it to be a lot more prep work. The parts were clean and went together quickly.
-
In an effort to improve my photo taking, I started a backdrop style diorama. It's a generic shop/factory floor but inspired by Magnus Walker's garage in Los Angeles. I used some printed brick bought off eBay along with a couple sheets of black foam board and some balsa left over from an old project. So far I'm only in to the project for the price of the brick sheets and the foam board. The gray strips are just painted balsa to represent concrete. I found some old photos online of a shop built like that. The base is 12 x 21 and I've backed the foam with more balsa strips on the underside. I'm hoping that will curb the foam board's tendency to warp. In scale, the brick walls would be around 16 feet if I measured right. The upper part is just plain black. I need to add some doors and windows and a decent floor, but it's a start. If anyone has tips, let me know.
-
2
-
-
5 hours ago, Daddyfink said:
A long time ago a friend in the Navy bought an old Chevette and stuck a built 454 in it. The first time he hit the gas it just spun the tires. He hacked the rear wheel wells and put some big slicks on the back. He hit the gas this time and it hooked up too well. The chassis was warped bad enough one of the front tires wouldn't quite touch the ground. Probably should have beefed it up and maybe fixed some of the rust first.
-
1
-
3
-
-
On 3/3/2024 at 1:53 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:
I use an extremely high performance epoxy made for aviation use that costs in the neighborhood of $400 per gallon, which I usually have in stock after it's gone out of date, and cannot be used on aircraft safely...but it's still WAY stronger than any readily available adhesive in the DIY marketplace.
Since I started using that method many years ago, I've had zero bond-line failures or cracks, even after aggressive sculptural shaping of "bondo" or epoxy/microballoon fillers over the bond lines.
HOWEVER...even that stuff simply will not stick to any "low surface energy" plastics like PP or PE, which the OP's material very obviously is at this point.
I like the idea of using fine fiberglass cloth to support things. I have a roll of that somewhere. Obviously I don't have access to the adhesive you do, but I used the cloth one time with resin to make a belly tank. The cloth has just enough flex to go down smoothly over the plug I carved.
We are straying from the subject as some have said. I remember as a kid having a toy car that advertised it was made out of Hi-Impact plastic and it looks like this is the same sort of thing. The only thing that seems to work is heat welding with a soldering iron. I originally wrote the question hoping to find some glue I missed. No adhesives I've tried work and that is that as far as I can tell. I'll try making resin copies of pieces I want to use. Appreciate the ideas!
-
No real progress today, but I did make a few positive steps. I ordered a different engine to try. I'm having trouble getting the Coyote twin turbo setup to fit in the Expedition engine bay. I found a 5.2 liter Voodoo and will see if it fits better. I was hit with some inspiration for the front bumper this afternoon and also managed to get the hood to fit a bit better.
-
10 hours ago, peteski said:
If the slippery plastic parts you found could be very useful, you could make RTV rubber molds from them and then make urethane reins copies (which then could be handled like other resin cast parts), Urethene resin is glueable and paintable.
I'm now thinking this is the way for some pieces. I have an Alumilite kit I bought from HL last year and packed away. If it's still good, I may try making copies.
-
Reading the replies made me think and I went out and checked. The plastic does indeed have a sort of waxy feel to it not unlike Teflon in some ways. I have a couple of Bondo spreaders and they feel and flex like plastic I'm talking about. The plastic doesn't take cutting or sanding well at all. Out of curiosity, I tried an experiment. I scuffed up the leftover chassis of a parts kit and tried various things on it. I tried super glue, Bondo spot putty, two part epoxy, ketone, and some other solvent based cleaners. They had no effect on the plastic. It didn't bond the plastic and it didn't even distort it.
-
Reading the replies made me think and I went out and checked. I have a couple of Bondo spreaders and they feel and flex like plastic I'm talking about. The plastic doesn't take cutting or sanding well at all. I tried some epoxy on a roughed up area and it doesn't adhere very well either.
Edit: Come to think of it the plastic feels similar to the plastic that Super glue comes in.
-
I have the same issue. Sometimes I can get them apart by twisting, but not always. One way that works fairly well is to cut a slit and pry the wheel shaft apart a little with a screwdriver to let the axle slide out.
-
Of that body style, the 1957 is my favorite. I think ModelHaus did a version of that, but I never got around to ordering one and now it's too late.
I imagine if the kits sell in the numbers I think they will, Round 2 might get ambitious and do different years of them.
-
Many years ago there was a rumor that the MPC Chevette and Vega tooling were still around somewhere. Has anyone heard whether they actually are? I've been watching eBay for a while, but the originals always go for more than I can justify.
I never thought I would see the stock Datsun truck or the Toyota Supra kit again and when they came out again, I bought several of them. Surely there are some other old tools that could be reissued.
-
For a short time in the late 90s I worked for a company producing resin bodies. We used various brands of resin depending on availability. Some were white and some were tan or yellowish when cured. Over time they all tend to discolor a bit.
I still have a few parts left over from that time and even the formerly white ones are now a yellow color due to age.
-
The local Walmart has been clearing out their diecast cars of various scales at a good price. I got a ton of them to break down for the wheels and tires.
Now for the question, a lot of these toys have some cool body parts and details that would be nice for model kits. The plastic on the chassis and interior is a slightly bendable black plastic.
Could it be a type of ABS? I've tested use a Tamiya liquid cement, and super glue, but neither really touches it. I do have a generic Bondic but haven't tried it yet. Has anyone ever glued this stuff together and if so what works? I couldn't find any markings on the pieces saying what kind of plastic it is.
Modified Corgi 911
in Diecast Corner
Posted
Really great job! I love restoring these old diecasts and you've really made this one look good.